Cylinder end shake repair

[45Smashemflat]

Given that I’m new at this, I’m curious what folks think.

It looks like I’ve got ~0.002” of end shake on a revolver I’m messing with. The “simplest” solution appears to be to drop in a Power Custom shim-bearing. As a “kitchen table gunsmith”, this looks easy.

That said, online, several folks show the “right way” to address this is with yoke barrel stretching. This looks to require some special tools, but does leave you with a fix with no new parts.

So, for the occasional “fixer” that likes to learn and do things themselves, which method do you think really is best? Invest in those tools? Buy a few shims?

 

[tennexplorer]

Buy the shims. With the yoke barrel stretcher, you can sometimes get a constriction of the inside of the yoke barrel. Then that has to be reamed.

Also with the shims you get a very smooth surface for the end of the yoke to rest on and for the cylinder to rotate on.

 

[armorer951]

This is not actually a "repair needed" scenario, unless you're having reliability issues. .002" of end shake is not only normal, but necessary for proper function.

To accommodate the moving parts in the assembly, some endshake, or gauge, is required. The term we hear all the time is "zero endshake". This is not possible in this particular moving assembly, because with no gauge or space between the components.... thecylinder and yoke barrel, and extractor boss and breechface.... the cylinder would not turn, and it would be impossible to open and close the cylinder. (without a hammer)

Further....lubricants, shooting debris, and environmental changes (temperature extremes) could not be accommodated in such an assembly.

Check the rear gauge, or " headspace" to see if it is in the normal range. If it is, then the end shake that you have now (.002") is inconsequential.



Carter

 

[llowry61]

Like mentioned above, be sure you truly have an end shake issue. If you do I recommend the shims they are a simple and effective fix. I used them on a 629-1 that was fed a steady diet of full house magnum loads. They worked great and the fix was done in 10 minutes. If you want it stretched, I would take it to a qualified gunsmith.

 

[45Smashemflat]

Thanks for the input! This is in regards to a pre-18 that is also suffering from light strikes while shooting double action. Not saying that this little bit of end shake is “the problem,” just continuing to trouble shoot while I await some other pieces.

(Separate thread on this topic.)

 

[chief38]

Yes - I have done both methods and much prefer the shims. The shims are easy to replace and/or add to if needed and the stretching method sometimes shrinks again - putting you back to where you were.

NOTE: I'd recommend taking out as little end shake as needed for proper function of course, because when you decrease the End Shake you increase the Barrel Cylinder Gap which you want to keep under 0.006" if at all possible. If you can't - you can't but just so you are aware.

 

[jkmo]

Fix the light strikes first. Usually strain screw or weakened mainspring

 

[Protocall_Design]

If you do the yoke barrel stretching correctly, it doesn't shrink internally because you have a closely fitting steel mandrel in the bore. That gives the material nowhere else to go besides lengthwise.

Also, the end of the crane barrel is always out of square from the factory so the cylinder is only riding on a high spot on the end. Whether you stretch it, or just add shims, it's best to trim the end square with a piloted counterbore tool so the cylinder is supported all the way around. It takes a lot fewer recoils to pound down the high spot and create endshake than when it has full circle contact.