cylinder gap
- Thread starter krsmith58
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stansdds, thank you very much. after i posted i did a search on topic. should do that first. please pardon. thanks again, krs/kenny
Protocall_Design
Vendor
For shooting lead, or lead and jacketed, .006. For jacketed only, .003 to .006. If under .006, you will need to keep a close eye on endshake and keep it to a minimum.
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I don't understand why endshake is more important with the tighter gaps.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Because as endshake gradually develops over time, it will allow the front of the cylinder to rub on the back of the barrel. This makes the cylinder very hard to turn. Also, any buildup of carbon, lead, etc., decreases the gap and can cause the cylinder to rub then, as well.
Endshake is front to back movement of the cylinder. The more endshake, the further forward it can go towards the barrel.
Endshake is front to back movement of the cylinder. The more endshake, the further forward it can go towards the barrel.
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IMHO The Minimum should be 0.003" the Maximum 0.007" and the ideal 0.004" - 0.006". Like stansdds states above the new S&W Max. is 0.012" which IMHO is ridiculous and only made that high because they could not keep their gap tolerances consistent. For a century 0.006" was the maximum - - now all of a sudden it doubles?!! Not in my book! 
Benchrest1
Member
I have a 686 no dash that has a gap now of about .010". Its still one of my best shooting revolvers.
Dale53
Member
I suggest that you pose that question to Outpost75. He worked in the industry for many years and can give authoritative info. Plus, he has customized many firearms and bullet molds that give him "deep background" on these issues. You can reach him by private message on the Cast Boolit Forum if you have problems reaching him here.
I have some experience with revolvers as I have cast my own bullets since about 1949 and shot competitively many, many years. Some years ago, I obtained my first 686 (a "overrun" of the CS-1 with 4" barrel). I shot it so well out of the box that I started looking for a 6". At the OGCA gun show I found a 6" 686, like new, from an estate sale. It looked like it had hardly been shot. When I took it to the range, it spitted everytime it was fired. I measured the cylinder clearance between the back of the barrel. It was at the S&W limit (about .012", as I remember). Fortunately, we had an excellent local pistolsmith who was a retired policeman who had, for years, been the armorer for the Cincinnati Police Dept. He was factory trained, and had worlds of experience. To add icing on the cake, he was/is not only very talented but also quite reasonable.
He, while I watched, removed the barrel, set it back, rethroated it, and re-installed it to match specs. I now have a revolver with minimum specs, no longer "spits" and shoots like a laser. I could not be more pleased.
FWIW
Dale53
I have some experience with revolvers as I have cast my own bullets since about 1949 and shot competitively many, many years. Some years ago, I obtained my first 686 (a "overrun" of the CS-1 with 4" barrel). I shot it so well out of the box that I started looking for a 6". At the OGCA gun show I found a 6" 686, like new, from an estate sale. It looked like it had hardly been shot. When I took it to the range, it spitted everytime it was fired. I measured the cylinder clearance between the back of the barrel. It was at the S&W limit (about .012", as I remember). Fortunately, we had an excellent local pistolsmith who was a retired policeman who had, for years, been the armorer for the Cincinnati Police Dept. He was factory trained, and had worlds of experience. To add icing on the cake, he was/is not only very talented but also quite reasonable.
He, while I watched, removed the barrel, set it back, rethroated it, and re-installed it to match specs. I now have a revolver with minimum specs, no longer "spits" and shoots like a laser. I could not be more pleased.
FWIW
Dale53
