Cylinder problems?

[6eighty6]

Just picked up my new 686 and the cylinder is kind of hard to open and sometimes difficult to close. I made sure everything is lubed up nicely but is still somewhat difficult to open and close. Sometimes so much that it feels like it's binding against something and I have to reopen and reattempt to close it.

Also, when open there is some front to back play and if I'm not careful the rear cylinder will rub the frame more often than not.

Lastly, the trigger pull is nice but about every 7th pull or so, it is a bit harder to pull. (Dunno if this is in my head because a Ruger I shot over the weekend had a terrible case of this, every 6th shot the trigger would be impossible to pull)

I haven't shot it yet and am wondering if it will "break in" or just get worse.

My question is, on a brand new revolver - should the cylinder typically open and close super smoothly?
2nd question is, on a brand new revolver - when the cylinder is open should one have to be super aware to push it forward point it down before spinning the cylinder as to not let it rub the frame?

 

[Walkingwolf]

S&W added a detente similar to the one on GP100 on the model 66. They may have done the same for the 686. If this is the case then yes it would be tighter. As to the cylinder moving to the rear there is a tab on the frame that keeps the cylinder in position while the cylinder is open.

You should be able to see the detente when you have it open if there is one.

 

[6eighty6]

S&W added a detente similar to the one on GP100 on the model 66. They may have done the same for the 686. If this is the case then yes it would be tighter. As to the cylinder moving to the rear there is a tab on the frame that keeps the cylinder in position while the cylinder is open.

You should be able to see the detente when you have it open if there is one.

I'm pretty new to firearms so I'm not quite sure what you're refering to...could you be a bit more specific?

 

[OKFC05]

1. The play in the cylinder when open is normal and irrelevant.
2. A bit tight in closing is normal in a new gun and use will help. Be sure to clean under the star and make sure the ejector rod is tightly screwed in. Put a little grease on the star and the tip of the rod that rubs against the frame when closing. I usually remove the crane and lightly lube the contact points. I have found some debris and pretty dry lube points in new guns, so I always clean and lube before shooting.

 

[6eighty6]

^ thanks for the reply, I will put a tiny bit of grease on the star.

I looked closer and the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone is a hair, so that looks good...but in the back - the cylinder rubs against the frame when going to close. I'll put a tiny bit of lube here, but should I be worried that the star rubs against the frame when closing?

 

[bigwheelzip]

2nd question is, on a brand new revolver - when the cylinder is open should one have to be super aware to push it forward point it down before spinning the cylinder as to not let it rub the frame?

Do you know that you should not spin the cylinder and flick your wrist to flip the cylinder closed?

 

[OKFC05]

If the cylinder fits properly when closed, then all is well. What the cylinder does when open and when you are closing depends on how you hold it. The steel locking pin in the middle of the star rubs against the frame closing and locks into the frame when fully closed. It will wear a track on the frame, and it needs a touch of grease every time you clean it.
Have you considered taking a class from a qualified NRA instructor? It can save a lot of time and ammo in learning to handle and shoot your new revolver? Don't use the movies as examples of how to handle a revolver....

 

[6eighty6]

Yes I am aware about not flicking it shut, but I didn't think spinning was bad (as long as you're not flicking t shut as it's spinning).

I took a firearms training course, pretty much knew everything that was covered (ammo types, semi auto types, 4 cardinal rules). Other ppl on the class has less experience so the instructor spent more time on them and about 30 seconds with me.

Since this is my first firearm, this is the first time I've been able to inspect one so deeply so I'm becoming aware of things that I hadn't realized when previously checking out guns.

Just part of the learning curve. Thanks for all the informative responses!

 

[bigwheelzip]

Yes I am aware about not flicking it shut ....

Good. Then the tips from OKFC05 should help if it's something simple.

As for the trigger pull variation, one of my 686's had a forcing cone that had a rough face, and would rub the cylinder in one spot. It dragged a bit and left a small curved scratch, but shooting it smoothed the face, and it fixed itself.

If you can't find the problem, your warranty is excellent. A phone call to customer service, and they email a shipping label to you. A simple checkup should have about a three week turn around.

I'm an amateur, but hang around a bit, and maybe some of our experts know of some magic to share.

Good luck.

 

[6eighty6]

I put a tiny dab of grease on the center of the star, don't know what you would call it. It's the part that holds the cylinder shut. Seems to glide a bit smoother. I see on the gram where it's kind of leaving a track, I guess with time it will smoothen out.

Thanks for the advice and for sharing your experiences folks. Looking forward to expand my knowledge on revolvers here.

 

[Mike0251]

Hi, if your saying that the cylinder seems to be binding when it is "swinging out or in" then your Yoke screw may be a little to tight. This will certainly do that. Use a screwdriver that fits the screw correctly so you don't damage the screw slot or burr it. Loosen until it just feels free. Check your cylinder swing, better? If so then tighten the screw just enough to put some slight resistance on the swing. That screw bears against the yoke in the slot as shown in the picture.