Cylinder Question

Duke44

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This is a rookie question, as I have yet to venture into gunsmithing of any kind. I have a 38 M&P that I have not taken to the range yet. I was giving it a good cleaning the other night and noticed that the cylinder does not close smoothly. It will close approximately 3/4 and then gets very tight until fully closed. Any ideas? Am I missing something?
 
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Sounds like it could be a possible problem with the front locking lug and the front/tip of the extractor rod. You might check to see if the front locking lug plunges in and out freely, and that the extractor rod is screwed in completely.
Check for any burrs with a magnifier. Proper lubrication in that area might help.

Does it have the new type spring loaded yoke screw?
 
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I bet the yoke screw (aka endshake screw) is either improperly fit, or has been accidentally switched with the middle sideplate screw.
 
If it is new, take it back to the gun shop where you bought it and compare how yours closes to the ones on display. If that's not possible, just go in somewhere without your gun and see how they open and close. If yours is tight compared to the others and seems to rub, call the manufacturer or consult a gunsmith.
 
The easy way to tell is to loosen the front side plate screw and see if it closes smoothly. If it does, just fit the screw properly (or like Hap said, check to see if the screws were accidentally switched). If it doesn't then Armorers assessment might be the problem.
 
Good evening gentlemen

Thanks for the input. I loosened the front sideplate screw and that fixed the issue. I tightened it just so to tight and now it works properly. Thanks again for the input.

By the way, I have successfully given myself cabin fever in anticipation of shooting!
 
That happened to me once - it was a flake of unburnt Blue Dot that got under the extractor star. Made it just proud enough to not want to close. Frustrated the heck out of me until I found it.
 
Good evening gentlemen

Thanks for the input. I loosened the front sideplate screw and that fixed the issue. I tightened it just so to tight and now it works properly. Thanks again for the input.

By the way, I have successfully given myself cabin fever in anticipation of shooting!

There are three sideplate screws, two have round heads and one is flat. They are not interchangeable! If loosening the yoke screw fixes the problem then you have swapped the front sideplate screw(yoke screw) with the bottom one! Switch them back and everything will be fine. There is a possibility that the yoke screw was replaced previously and not fit correctly too. If that is the issue then that screw needs proper fitting as it must be kept tight, just like all screws.
 
Yup - make sure the 1st and 2nd screws have not been switched by accident! If they haven't use a file or stone to fit he screw correctly - a little at a a time. DON'T leave it loose or you will wonder where it went one day.
 
There was a little dirt when I originally removed the screw. I checked and the screw is a round head. The one under the stock is flat. I removed the screw again and reset it. I made sure it was snug and tried opening and closing the cylinder and everything seems to work fine. Both of the exposed screws are round head and seem to be fit properly.
 
DUKE44:

The front and middle screws SHOULD be Filister Head screws (not actually round head) and the rear one under the Stock is a Flat Head screw. It is quite common to mix up the front and middle screws as they very similar except the front one that holds in the Cylinder is fit ( for proper length). So if you have that problem again, swap the front and middle and see of that eliminates the binding.
 
chief38:

Thanks. I knew "round" head wasn't correct but didn't know the proper name. I'd like to learn more about gunsmithing and these cold winter evenings are the best time to learn. Thanks again for your help.
 

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