Cylinder turn lines?

The replies in this thread have been interesting and informative.

Every S&W I own has a turn line, including the stainless steel and nickel models.

Don't reblue, and don't fret about the turn lines.

Rebluing might have a more adverse value result than turn lines.
 
[...] Now would you leave the turnlines or stone the edge of the cylinder stop and reblue it, your honest opinion.
I've never even thought of doing that. I thought it's ridiculous before reading this obvious flaw in the reasoning:

[...] Rebluing might have a more adverse value result than turn lines.
"Might" was a poor choice of words. It definitely will.

Just enjoy your revolver. Perhaps it needs a trip to range to remind you why we own guns.
 
I have two m28's and one m28-2. Ill leave the turn lined one alone you guys are the best when it comes to advise. I was in the past thinking about having one redone in nickel and you guys saved another orginal one.

The m28/m28-2 are sweet they have awesome triggers. Very well balanced 6" barreled revolver.

Thanks again.
 
I saw a boob tube gun guy who collects expensive revolvers. He places black tape along the cylinder sections to avoid lines while shooting.
I think his moniker is giant sized potatoe.
 
I have bunch of S&W revolvers, I,J,K,L,N,X and every one of them has a turn line. I plan to keep on getting more and shooting them until I find one that doesn't get a turn line.:D I am picking up my new 431PD today, Maybe that will be the ONE. ;)
 
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Someone always wants to beat the system or in this case, the engineers. Figure out how to make something work in a way it was not designed to work to show what a smart idea they have! A turn line shows the revolver is operating properly. It is a by product of proper operation. Slight stoning of the offending side of the cylinder stop is the only approved way of addressing the issue. Anything other than that is tampering with the proper operation of the revolver which could cause it to fail when it is needed the most. If the stop does not rub the cylinder or have the spring tension to engage the cylinder notch then it will not lock the cylinder when it reaches the notch and a light lock into the notch could cause it to jump out under recoil. Maybe individuals that are bothered by the turn line should trade for an auto?
 
I polish, not stone, the tops of my cylinder stops. I use a fine Cratex rubber in a rotary tool to give a mirror shine to the tops of my stops(or bolts?) and use same to break any sharp edges along the top. Unless the thing is worn out, you will not remove any material that would affect the dimensions of the part. And it minimizes the ringing on any of the guns, I also do it on other revolvers. If someone is a total knucklehead they could use the wrong tool and remove material or damage the part I suppose. Watch the YT videos about the bozos that try to polish their barrels with a sanding disc, etc. But this is safe. I also use Cratex to polish up feed ramps in autos. All you need is some common sense. Obviously it is metal on metal so if there is any sort of film of lubrication on your cylinder such as silicone cloth or protective oil film, in combination with low friction from a polished stop, that will reduce it. But it will never go away completely with two metals of same hardness.
 
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I polish, not stone, the tops of my cylinder stops. I use a fine Cratex rubber in a rotary tool to give a mirror shine to the tops of my stops(or bolts?) and use same to break any sharp edges along the top. Unless the thing is worn out, you will not remove any material that would affect the dimensions of the part. And it minimizes the ringing on any of the guns, I also do it on other revolvers. If someone is a total knucklehead they could use the wrong tool and remove material or damage the part I suppose. Watch the YT videos about the bozos that try to polish their barrels with a sanding disc, etc. But this is safe. I also use Cratex to polish up feed ramps in autos. All you need is some common sense.

Very important. You do NOT want to remove any material to change the dimension of the bolt. I've had problems with over stoned bolts on an old Colt, and it would skip out of the notches on fast double action firing because the bolt itself was compromised from stoning.

The leading edge of the bolt that contacts the edge of the notch to stop the cylinder must be left intact and sharp shouldered so that it can make full contact.
 
Yea I never mess with the rest of the stop, just the top and the side edges. And I am smoothing the edges on a microscopic scale practically, not "rounding them off". It probably depends on the gun, how rough the stop was made to begin with. The only time I ever replaced a stop was with an old Victory model that had been thru Britain and into Pakistan or India and needed refurb. The top had a flat spot worn on it from decades of hard use. If you were especially nervous you could only polish the center of the top, which is the part that contacts the cylinder.
 
Here is a solution that will eliminate turn lines without modification to the revolver. Take a piece of .0039987 thick plastic, it can't be .0039986 or .0039988 in thickness or it will not work. Length should be about 3 inches, and width .50.... Now slide it between the cylinder stop and the cylinder, prior to cocking the revolver. Cock the revolver, slide the shim out, let the cylinder stop engage the cylinder stop notch, apply the fundamentals, and fire your revolver. Do this when ever cycling the action. This will significantly eliminate any turn line on your revolver, and when you get old and can't shoot anymore, or when your time comes, you can then guarantee that someone else will be able to enjoy and use the revolver as it was intended.

haha darn, my calipers only go down .001" accuracy.
 
There are stones and there are stones. To be clear I do not use ordinary hardware store stones for this purpose. I use an old Case translucent naviculite (real rock) stone that feels as smooth as window glass.

This topic has been in many threads. I do not recall another thread getting so emotional.
 
I saw a boob tube gun guy who collects expensive revolvers. He places black tape along the cylinder sections to avoid lines while shooting.
I think his moniker is giant sized potatoe.

Kind of sad. Today's obsessive folks probably have a tough time dealing with something as insignificant as turn lines.
 
This topic has been in many threads. I do not recall another thread getting so emotional.

Hmmm. Guess I've missed what you perceive as "emotional."

Thread needs a photo. This is the most prominent turn line I've seen: October 1953 .38 Chiefs Special Airweight, 1 of 923 square butts with an aluminum cylinder. Obviously well used, and the frame is not cracked.

My bottom line: a turn line is a rite of passage.
 

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Ok it's the nature of the beast not a higher than normal or improperly fitted cylinder stop. I got it. Thanks for the education.
 
Here's the turn lines. This m28 has a sweet trigger. I haven't fondled it in decades. It appears to be barely fired. No holster wear, nothing. I'm not a collector but I've been very fussy about the condition of what I purchased.


Second problem the side of the trigger is wearing against the frame. I'm thinking by putting a shim in there it will stop the wear? Look closely at the pic.
 

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