Cylinder wouldn't spin on 67-1

[kbm6893]

Was cleaning my 67-1 and when I was done the cylinder wouldn't spin. It wasn't the ejector rod. The sideplate screws were put back in the right order and either way the two front screws looked exactly the same size. It's a used gun so I always take the plate off to flush it out in there. Good thing I did it was gooky in there. I took the cylinder off again and slid off the crane so I just had the cylinder and ejector rod. Pushed in the ejector rod a bunch if times. Kind if wobbled a bit and I don't know if that is normal. Finally it spun freely and seems to be ok. Should I send it in? Gonna be my wife's "I heard a noise and you weren't home" gun. Any ideas?

 

[Muss Muggins]

Depending on the model, the side plate screws are all different, and have different functions. Some look similar but are not. The screw that also holds the yoke, again, depending on the model, is significantly different. That aside, the screws won't keep the cylinder from spinning. Sounds like the ejector rod has backed out. It should not "wobble." Also, it's always "gooky" in there because you're adding a substance that attracts "gook."

 

[kbm6893]

Depending on the model, the side plate screws are all different, and have different functions. Some look similar but are not. The screw that also holds the yoke, again, depending on the model, is significantly different. That aside, the screws won't keep the cylinder from spinning. Sounds like the ejector rod has backed out. It should not "wobble." Also, it's always "gooky" in there because you're adding a substance that attracts "gook."

Ejector rod was tight. Wouldn't budge either way. The goop in the innards was thick black sludge. Looked like ear wax. I know I out the screws back in the right order but as you said it wouldn't prevent the cylinder from turning

I have one if those ejector rod wrenches. At first when I turned it the wrench would move but not the rod. I tightened it and tried again. No turn on the rod. I know the gun has left hand threads. As for the wobble, it wasn't so much of a wobble but rather a shift in the rod as I pushed it in and out. So it would kind of shift in the cylinder as I pressed it.

 

[Muss Muggins]

Ejector rod was tight. Wouldn't budge either way. The goop in the innards was thick black sludge. Looked like ear wax. I know I out the screws back in the right order but as you said it wouldn't prevent the cylinder from turning

I have one if those ejector rod wrenches. At first when I turned it the wrench would move but not the rod. I tightened it and tried again. No turn on the rod. I know the gun has left hand threads. As for the wobble, it wasn't so much of a wobble but rather a shift in the rod as I pushed it in and out. So it would kind of shift in the cylinder as I pressed it.

The thick black sludge is attracted by whatever you use to flush out the innards. If the extractor rod is tight (and I've never hear of an ejector rod wrench. Smith and Wesson didn't want to sell me one at armorer's school), then any of the various parts that come in contact with the cylinder could be stuck. After that, without handling it, I got nothing.

 

[jimmyj]

Non-Expert advice.
1. Take out the front most side plate screw and see if this frees the cylinder. If the cylinder can now work--you have the front and middle side plate screws mixed.
2. Can you pull the trigger ? if not, possible the cylinder locking bolt is not dropping down.

 

[11e40]

sometimes the sideplate screws are too tight or in the wrong position so the sideplate binds on the cylinder stop. hth.

 

[Muss Muggins]

Non-Expert advice.
1. Take out the front most side plate screw and see if this frees the cylinder. If the cylinder can now work--you have the front and middle side plate screws mixed.
2. Can you pull the trigger ? if not, possible the cylinder locking bolt is not dropping down.

I'm out of this one now.

 

[kbm6893]

The tool is called the vice smith extractor rod tool. Works on j k and l frame revolvers. Midway USA has them. As for flushing out the internals it's just something I do when I buy a used gun. I know how to take the sideplate off. Done it dozens of times. I don't break down the gun anymore than that. I spray it with brake cleaner and then blast it out with compressed air the. A drop or two of oil. Done it on every used s&w I have ever owned. And I've owned a lot. Never an issue.

For those who have taken it apart with the yolk off is there any play in the ejector rod? I can check on my 65 but I don't take the yolk off unless there is a real reason to. Either way, it seems to be working fine. Have t shot it of course but gun operates just as it should. Has a different feel than my 65. Heavier barrel really does make a difference I guess. Neve owned a heavy barrel and a tapered barrel at the same time. Was gonna sell the 65 since I figured the 2 guns were kind of redundant, but they really feel different even with the same grips

 

[Paul Tummers]

Yes, on mine there is an amount of play when I have the cylinder taken off the yoke seems, the hole in the yoke aligns it because when re-mounted on the yoke it works smooth and with very little play