D I Y - How to install S&W grip logos or medallions...PICS!

MAG-NUM

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After seeing numerous posts requesting information on how to install S&W logos in unmarked stocks or grips, I have decided to give it a try myself and post the details of my effort.
I had just recently made a pair of grips (my second attempt) to fit my "new classic" model 40-1 lemon squeezer because grips for that model gun are not easy to find, using Arctic White Corian as the raw material because I wanted a pure white glossy grip to go with my nickel gun.
This is how the grips looked when completed before the logos:

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They were nice enough but I do like the nickel logos installed so I decided to purchase a set on Ebay which as I found out are not like the factory logos as they are not curved at all on the top surface and they do not have a stem in the back which was fine with me. They are metal and very nicely detailed and have shiny nickel plating.:)
The seller told me they measure 13/32" in diameter which is not a common drill bit size. It's bigger than 3/8" but smaller than 7/16". He said what most guys do is buy a 7/16" Forstner bit and grind it down to 13/32". OK....never tried that before but I'm game.
I then purchased a Forstner bit on line for $5.00 + shipping and it was delivered in a few days.

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The nice thing about Forstner bits is that they drill flat bottom holes and cut a nice circle on top with no tear out.

I then chucked the bit in my hand drill, switched the direction to reverse so it would rotate opposite of my grinder, took a steady hold and very lightly applied the spinning drill bit to the grinder, checking my progress with test holes along the way. Safety note: wear eye protection for any grinding operation.

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When I was happy with the test holes I checked the bit in a spare piece of Corian to check the size and depth:

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Next step was to determine the location of the logos on my grip panels. I wanted them close to the top in the traditional location. After making a few measurements and marking some pencil lines to locate the center I was ready to drill.....

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I used the test block that I set my depth of cut with and placed the bit into it and used blue masking tape to wrap the bit so I would know how deep to drill.....

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Using the hand drill to drill the holes allowed me to align the bit with the surface of the grips as they tapered in both directions. I would drill a little, then check my progress to make sure the hole was square with the surface. When I reached the tape depth marker, I stopped there and test fit the logos. Here the grips are shown with the drilling complete.

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If you are drilling into wood grips, you would be ready to glue your logos into place at this time, but since I was using Corian I wanted to lightly sand the area around the hole with 800 grit wet sandpaper and polish the edge off the plastic a little. For this I use a loose cotton buffing wheel chucked into my drill which was lightly clamped into the vice and applied a little white compound which really brings out the shine and smooths the sharp edge around the holes.

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Finally, with everything cleaned and ready, I mixed up a small batch of 5 minute epoxy and applied just a drop or two into the base of the hole for the logo. Carefully sliding them into place and positioning the logo as needed.

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After an hour, they were good and solid so I applied a couple of coats of Renaissance wax to the grips and reapplied them to the gun. I really like the way they turned out. Best of luck with your project. Bob

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You did a great job. Thanks for showing.

Charlie
 
Great writeup and those look very nice on that 40-1.
 
Excellent job. My 40-1 doesn't shine as well as yours; mine shows scratches and smudges. How did you get such a nice bright luster to the nickel finish?
 
VERY NICE. WHERE DID YOU OBTAIN MEDALIONS?

KEN BENNETT
#2192
 
A work of Art

That is truly a beautiful set of grips on a great looking gun. :cool:

The whole package is outstanding.

Thanks for sharing the steps to make it happen.

augy :)
 
Excellent job. My 40-1 doesn't shine as well as yours; mine shows scratches and smudges. How did you get such a nice bright luster to the nickel finish?

I use MAAS polish which is super fine and then a coat of Ren wax. Plus, just the right photo angle helps to hide the faint scratches:) Bob
 
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