MAG-NUM
Member
After seeing numerous posts requesting information on how to install S&W logos in unmarked stocks or grips, I have decided to give it a try myself and post the details of my effort.
I had just recently made a pair of grips (my second attempt) to fit my "new classic" model 40-1 lemon squeezer because grips for that model gun are not easy to find, using Arctic White Corian as the raw material because I wanted a pure white glossy grip to go with my nickel gun.
This is how the grips looked when completed before the logos:
They were nice enough but I do like the nickel logos installed so I decided to purchase a set on Ebay which as I found out are not like the factory logos as they are not curved at all on the top surface and they do not have a stem in the back which was fine with me. They are metal and very nicely detailed and have shiny nickel plating.
The seller told me they measure 13/32" in diameter which is not a common drill bit size. It's bigger than 3/8" but smaller than 7/16". He said what most guys do is buy a 7/16" Forstner bit and grind it down to 13/32". OK....never tried that before but I'm game.
I then purchased a Forstner bit on line for $5.00 + shipping and it was delivered in a few days.
The nice thing about Forstner bits is that they drill flat bottom holes and cut a nice circle on top with no tear out.
I then chucked the bit in my hand drill, switched the direction to reverse so it would rotate opposite of my grinder, took a steady hold and very lightly applied the spinning drill bit to the grinder, checking my progress with test holes along the way. Safety note: wear eye protection for any grinding operation.
When I was happy with the test holes I checked the bit in a spare piece of Corian to check the size and depth:
Next step was to determine the location of the logos on my grip panels. I wanted them close to the top in the traditional location. After making a few measurements and marking some pencil lines to locate the center I was ready to drill.....
I used the test block that I set my depth of cut with and placed the bit into it and used blue masking tape to wrap the bit so I would know how deep to drill.....
Using the hand drill to drill the holes allowed me to align the bit with the surface of the grips as they tapered in both directions. I would drill a little, then check my progress to make sure the hole was square with the surface. When I reached the tape depth marker, I stopped there and test fit the logos. Here the grips are shown with the drilling complete.
If you are drilling into wood grips, you would be ready to glue your logos into place at this time, but since I was using Corian I wanted to lightly sand the area around the hole with 800 grit wet sandpaper and polish the edge off the plastic a little. For this I use a loose cotton buffing wheel chucked into my drill which was lightly clamped into the vice and applied a little white compound which really brings out the shine and smooths the sharp edge around the holes.
Finally, with everything cleaned and ready, I mixed up a small batch of 5 minute epoxy and applied just a drop or two into the base of the hole for the logo. Carefully sliding them into place and positioning the logo as needed.
After an hour, they were good and solid so I applied a couple of coats of Renaissance wax to the grips and reapplied them to the gun. I really like the way they turned out. Best of luck with your project. Bob
I had just recently made a pair of grips (my second attempt) to fit my "new classic" model 40-1 lemon squeezer because grips for that model gun are not easy to find, using Arctic White Corian as the raw material because I wanted a pure white glossy grip to go with my nickel gun.
This is how the grips looked when completed before the logos:


They were nice enough but I do like the nickel logos installed so I decided to purchase a set on Ebay which as I found out are not like the factory logos as they are not curved at all on the top surface and they do not have a stem in the back which was fine with me. They are metal and very nicely detailed and have shiny nickel plating.

The seller told me they measure 13/32" in diameter which is not a common drill bit size. It's bigger than 3/8" but smaller than 7/16". He said what most guys do is buy a 7/16" Forstner bit and grind it down to 13/32". OK....never tried that before but I'm game.
I then purchased a Forstner bit on line for $5.00 + shipping and it was delivered in a few days.

The nice thing about Forstner bits is that they drill flat bottom holes and cut a nice circle on top with no tear out.
I then chucked the bit in my hand drill, switched the direction to reverse so it would rotate opposite of my grinder, took a steady hold and very lightly applied the spinning drill bit to the grinder, checking my progress with test holes along the way. Safety note: wear eye protection for any grinding operation.


When I was happy with the test holes I checked the bit in a spare piece of Corian to check the size and depth:


Next step was to determine the location of the logos on my grip panels. I wanted them close to the top in the traditional location. After making a few measurements and marking some pencil lines to locate the center I was ready to drill.....

I used the test block that I set my depth of cut with and placed the bit into it and used blue masking tape to wrap the bit so I would know how deep to drill.....

Using the hand drill to drill the holes allowed me to align the bit with the surface of the grips as they tapered in both directions. I would drill a little, then check my progress to make sure the hole was square with the surface. When I reached the tape depth marker, I stopped there and test fit the logos. Here the grips are shown with the drilling complete.

If you are drilling into wood grips, you would be ready to glue your logos into place at this time, but since I was using Corian I wanted to lightly sand the area around the hole with 800 grit wet sandpaper and polish the edge off the plastic a little. For this I use a loose cotton buffing wheel chucked into my drill which was lightly clamped into the vice and applied a little white compound which really brings out the shine and smooths the sharp edge around the holes.

Finally, with everything cleaned and ready, I mixed up a small batch of 5 minute epoxy and applied just a drop or two into the base of the hole for the logo. Carefully sliding them into place and positioning the logo as needed.


After an hour, they were good and solid so I applied a couple of coats of Renaissance wax to the grips and reapplied them to the gun. I really like the way they turned out. Best of luck with your project. Bob

