Damaged Yoke?

[DocRogers]

Hi,

Just purchased a 17-4 and noticed that the yoke seems little loose. It swings out with no resistance at all and there is some play between the yoke and frame. With closer inspection it appears the yoke is proud to the frame as pictured:


When i press on the yoke it becomes flush with the frame.
I removed the yoke and can see a prominent groove along what I assume is the yoke button.


I shot the gun a few days ago and it seemed like the timing and lockup were fine. Is this something I need to worry about (as per the FAQ section on yoke endshake) or is this normal wear?

Thanks in advance

 

[saemetric]

What does the end of the screw look like. Just for fun, put the other round head side plate screw in there and see what happens. Use some grease on the yoke slot.

 

[DocRogers]

The screw doesn't look too bad. It has been fitted and is shorter than the other side plate screw. I did try swapping them briefly but the yoke was excessively tight with the other screw and would not swing open.



Thanks for the grease suggestion, I will try that.

 

[chief38]

I'd say either the Yoke was replaced at some point or it was not fit correctly at the Factory. If it can be pressed in and still functions smoothly and properly, you can have a GS fit it.

 

[saemetric]

The tip of that screw looks too short and that's why it did not fit down into the slot of the yoke are enough and rides up on the yoke where the wear area is. There's a fine line between too long and just right.

 

[29aholic]

I would fit the other screw that is too tight.

 

[DocRogers]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm worried that the yoke button has become deformed over time. I'll take it to the local gunsmith and see what he has to say

 

[Hondo44]

1. Check the yoke assembly # to verify it matches the # on the left side of the grip frame (also inside the side plate). If so, it's the original yoke.

2. The yoke screw is a bit short as posted by 29aholic. I did not extend deep enough into the groove ahead of the button. First remove the burrs on the side of the button/groove. Then do as he suggested, swap screws and shorten the other screw tip no more than it takes to eliminate resistance when closing the yoke.

3. If you get the screw short enough but you still feel resistance in opening and closing the yoke, relieve the side of the button the length of the worn groove showing in your photo, so the button doesn't bind on the side of the screw tip. Slight resistance is OK with lubrication, for a nice snug fit of the yoke.

This is too simple to fix, to waste time and money at a gunsmith.

 

[Arquebus357]

I doubt that you can get a screw that will compensate for that severely worn button. A bit of tig weld welding and some file work is needed. I would have that done before trying to fit a new yoke.

Actually, I would silver braze but that would just be a temporary fix. Which might be ok for some.

 

[DocRogers]

We'll see, I didn't feel confident enough to go filing away at it myself and took it to the gunsmith a couple days ago. Should have it back in a week or so.

 

[Hondo44]

Did he see the yoke button or give you any idea of his thoughts for fixing it?

 

[steelslaver]

Plus you could easily displace some metal to the area needed. I would do that before welding on it.

 

[Arquebus357]

Sorry but displacing steel is not something "easily" done.

 

[armorer951]

Very simple repair procedure.....this "end shake on yoke", as the factory refers to it, is easily repaired by lightly peening the end of the yoke button to restore contact between the inside of the button and the screw pilot stem. In the OP photograph, the point where the rub line on the inside of the button terminates indicates the location of the contact of the yoke screw stem and the button when the yoke is closed. Peening should be done on the outside/end of the button at this location.

The purpose of the peening to to remove the gauge (space) between the inside contact surface of the yoke button and the yoke screw, and eliminate the front and back movement, or "end shake" of the yoke.

 

[steelslaver]

Tapping the end of the button and moving it in slightly (per Armorer951) is displacing metal.

I forge and to me displacing metal is easily done.

 

[Hondo44]

Plus you could easily displace some metal to the area needed. I would do that before welding on it.

Yes, that's a good idea! I didn't think of that. Since the ill fitting yoke screw could burr the button over like it has, a flat tipped pin punch with the tip ground on an angle can be used to gently peen the displaced metal back in place.

In the same way buggered screw slots are repaired when a screw is irreplaceable.

 

[Arquebus357]

I understand the "displacing metal" concept but would take a whole bunch of displacing to fix that particular button. Maybe it CAN be done and if so, it would be better than welding.

 

[Protocall_Design]

In part, the art of revolversmithing lies in knowing how to adjust that which is non adjustable.

 

[DocRogers]

Update:

I picked up the 17 from the gunsmith today; as has been suggested he cleaned up the button and fitted the longer rear screw to the front. The yoke now opens with slight resistance and is flush with the frame. The cylinder feels much more secure when locked.

I am very happy with the work. I bought this gun for range duty and look forward to teaching my children to shoot with it!

 

[Hondo44]

Bravo!

You know a real gunsmith, rather than a parts replacer. And he has fast service as well!