Dead trigger M&P9 arg!

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Nitrous SSC

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Had to use a friends gun at a match today because mine went to ****. The trigger went completely dead a few times mid strings in steel challenge.

Here's some factors:

Dry firing does not replicate it. It functions fine. Only happens when firing.
When it happens I only have to partially pull the side back (similar to a press check) then the gun will fire.
The gun does have a full Apex Duty/carry kit and aluminum trigger.
The candy cane does look from the top and into the frame a little curvy from "adjusting". (Why I'm leaning toward this as the problem. User caused of course.)

First aid tried at the range with limited tools... I bent the trigger bar a little more aggressively toward the sear so it had full contact.

Gun ran fantastic just Thursday night at a pin shoot with no problems at all.

I'm taking this gun to a huge Berry's match in Feb. I'm concerned because if it's the trigger bar I can't find one anywhere online and I've read that S&W won't sell you one and requires send in. No way the gun will be back before then with the holiday comebacks they'll get. I have an "H" bar.

I'll call Apex and S&W tomorrow and see if can get anywhere. I have a feeling I'm screwed.
 
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Nitrous SSC said:
The candy cane does look from the top and into the frame a little curvy from "adjusting". (Why I'm leaning toward this as the problem. User caused of course.)
Click to expand...
This is what I'd put my money on too. It is probably adjusted to allow too little sear engagement. Normally I'd tell you to close the gap at the end of the candy cane a little, but your description of it has me concerned.

Is there any way you can post a pic of the trigger bar?
 
Rastoff said:
This is what I'd put my money on too. It is probably adjusted to allow too little sear engagement. Normally I'd tell you to close the gap at the end of the candy cane a little, but your description of it has me concerned.

Is there any way you can post a pic of the trigger bar?
Click to expand...

In fear of becoming a shining example of "don't be this guy" I'll just agree the concern is why I'm thinking it's the problem. Haha. The only
Other thing I can think of is after the Thursday match I removed the striker to clean it and the channel. Which I have done several times before without any problems and inspecting it today looked fine.

If anything, it has too much engagement as its gap is pretty significant once the bar makes contact.
 
Last edited:
You need to adjust the trigger bar loop. There is a video of it very simple won't take long.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Nitrous SSC said:
If anything, it has too much engagement as its gap is pretty significant once the bar makes contact.
Click to expand...
Yes, that gap doesn't need to be large. But more than that, there is an angle that needs to be maintained. Also, the point at which the loop engages the sear is important as well. If it engages it too early, the striker block may not have been moved far enough to release the striker.
 
Rastoff said:
Yes, that gap doesn't need to be large. But more than that, there is an angle that needs to be maintained. Also, the point at which the loop engages the sear is important as well. If it engages it too early, the striker block may not have been moved far enough to release the striker.
Click to expand...

I am one that tinkers. I played with bending it quite a bit lately and
It's geometry is beyond getting it back to a happy place. Especially with the "adjustments" I made in 19* weather today at the safe area trying to get it back in the game without punches and full tools.
 
Nitrous SSC said:
Great find. I searched Brownells but only found the S one. Ordering one now. What is the benefit of the different slide stop? Mine is a 14' model.

Thank you so much for all the help.
Click to expand...

The Gen 3 slide stop has a bump welded on the right side lever. It gives you a better audible and tactile reset on the trigger. It's also made stronger than the Gen 1 and Gen 2. Gen 1 has no bump, Gen 2 has a bump that was pressed in. You can easily check to see if yours is a Gen 3 or not without removing it. Even though yours is a '14 model, S&W is known to use old parts in these guns.
 
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Welded on is a Gen 3. Both of mine from Brownell's are black with no file marks. It's possible the the PC filed off some excess weld material. Should be ok though. While you're at it check to see if you have the latest "H" trigger bar assembly installed.


...What's with this forum automatically putting in links to Brownell's all the time?
 
Last edited:
jackrabbit000 said:
Welded on is a Gen 3. Both of mine from Brownell's are black with no file marks. It's possible the the PC filed off some excess weld material. Should be ok though. While you're at it check to see if you have the latest "H" trigger bar assembly installed.


...What's with this forum automatically putting in links to Brownell's all the time?
Click to expand...

I deleted my post after I went to brownell's and looked at the pics. My pistol does have a nice tactical reset that hits the bump on the slide release. I do have the H trigger bar.
 
Broke the trigger bar on my m&p45, sent it back to S&W and they received it on the 9th of Dec. Just got an email saying it will be back on my hands on the 5th.
 
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