Then why not just load those cases.
I don't have a lot of them, but every now and then, I'll get a case crunched in the press or split a neck.
Decapped live primers
- Thread starter AlHunt
- Start date
I don't have a lot of them, but every now and then, I'll get a case crunched in the press or split a neck.
max503
Member
Yes. You don't want a bunch of loose primers sitting together. They ship them in trays for a reason.
The 38 die was creating friction. The 44 made it easier to deal with only the flash hole.
I thought of that, played with some Q-Tips but short of a liquid solvent of some kind I just didn't feel like I could avoid getting whatever I used into the primer I was trying to save.
That's good to know. I considered that route.
crankyoldlady
Member
No. Every round goes bang.
HorizontalMike
US Veteran
A while back, I found the need to de-cap ~30rd of 5.56, and ended up using the whack-a-mole to start the process. Then I used my press to do the de-capping. Out of ~30rd, I think I had 3-4 of the primers lose their anvil insert. Other than that, they looked fine.
I was able to actually put the anvils back in position, but openly wonder if I should trust the final primer assembly on this "less-than-a-handful"...
I was able to actually put the anvils back in position, but openly wonder if I should trust the final primer assembly on this "less-than-a-handful"...
My suggestion. Run "em" through the tumbler till the lube is gone. Load a few and see what happens.
Baltimoreed11754
Member
I roll my rifle brass on a lube pad before resizing and then roll it on a towel on my leg, how do you get lube where it will interfere with a primer or powder? I use carbide dies on my pistol reloads and never lube them.
For 38/357 I don't have a carbide die so have to use case lube. I then hose them down with brake parts cleaner in a small can, shake the heck out of them, drain and dry.
Checking charge weights, I had one under weight. That NEVER happens with the Little Dandy. So, I head off to check all 50 and found a couple more. Kept thinking and went back to the first underweight case, dumped it and looked in the case. Couldn't see the bottom. I whacked it upside down on the bench and got maybe a 1/4 to 1/3 grain of powder it. Ran a Q-Tip down and it came out with ... something on it.
Putting 2 and 2 and 2 together, I'm pretty sure it's case lube from my brake parts cleaner bath that dissolved and stayed in the case.
Were I planning to shoot it i the next month or so, I'd have probably taken my chances. Where I intend to store it, I decided to go the de-prime and re-clean route.
Not having a tumbler takes that option off the table.
I'm very confident 100% of them will work.
A while back, I found the need to de-cap ~30rd of 5.56, and ended up using the whack-a-mole to start the process. Then I used my press to do the de-capping. Out of ~30rd, I think I had 3-4 of the primers lose their anvil insert. Other than that, they looked fine.
I was able to actually put the anvils back in position, but openly wonder if I should trust the final primer assembly on this "less-than-a-handful"...
I've lately been "rebuilding" a few primers just in case we never get any more at retail, so I'm familiar with how they're made. If you kept the few separate, I'd suggest loading them and shooting them all in the same magazine just to prove to yourself that they're dependable.
One method I saw involved repriming the cup, setting the anvil on top of it and driving the anvil home by seating it in a case.
Of the 200 I did, 0 came apart. I used a larger die so there was no friction between the case and die. It let me be very precise in touching the primer with the decapping pin and only applying very little force to the primer.
Kind of sad this is a conversation we need to have about what used to be a 3 cent component ...
That was my first thought in reading through this thread.
I appreciate the info.
HorizontalMike
US Veteran
Indeed, I have these ~30 primers separate, and the 3-4 separate from them as well. I have been on hold because of this pandemic, playing it safe. Will get my 2nd vaccine Tuesday! So within ~3-weeks, I can start getting out and around again
. I'll still wear a mask around others, for their sake, and do not want to get into the politics of pro/con mask wearing. I am just fortunate the VA has been responsive in getting veterans vaccinated, and for that thankful.BACK-ON-TASK: I have been trying to come up with test loads using H322 and 53gr Sierra Match Kings, for AR use. Made mistake earlier when "trying" to minimally crimp this non-cannelure'd bullet. Ended up bulging the "new" brass and having many FTF. Lesson learned...
Purchased the proper case gauge for another go at it. Also picked up Reddings Competition Shell Holders to help with full-length sizing, and the 223 Remington Bushing Neck Die Set (Mfr Part: 58111), though I don't think I'll need that immediately, if ever.
ALL SAID AND DONE: Once I can safely get to the range and field testing my loads, I have 2k of brass and ~3.5k of MKs to work with. I have already been deep in all other supplies, though I only moved to the .223/5.56 platform early last year. Got lucky and was able to stock up on the .223 Brass (only thing I was lacking) without much/any real markup. That has allowed me to side-step the recent ammo crisis/shortage to a great extent.
My longer term interest has been my Remington #722 in .222, so still have ~1k of that to do to catch up. BTW, I already have determined my loads for the .222 (all trickled of course)...
I have my one-owner (my dad's) #722 from 1953 and it still proves to be <MOA at 200yd. It shoots better than I.So, I have much to keep me busy as Spring approaches...
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Cdog
Member
I've recovered and reused hundreds if not more than a thousand primers from unknown loads, primed brass from calibers I no longer own, and even from odd and end pieces of factory ammo that folks had given me or I got in trade over the years.
I use a depriming die. I use low slow pressure and have yet to have one go off. I have damaged a few when removing some from imported brass that use staked or crimped primers, but they still went bang when I tried them.
There is one exception to my otherwise perfect record of noiseless extractions.
I had a few very deteriorated corroded shotgun shells given to me. People give me a lot of junk they don't know what to do with! I cut them open and removed their contents.
Instead of taking them outside and hitting them with a hammer (As I did when I was a kid) I decided to try easily tapping one out with an oversized punch. I placed the brass over a hollow in a jig and began to tap very lightly.
It was that third little tap that let me know this wasn't a good idea.
Other than the sharp edge of the brass making a small cut in my left index finger no harm was done.
Lesson learned. Hit em' with a hammer and move on...
I use a depriming die. I use low slow pressure and have yet to have one go off. I have damaged a few when removing some from imported brass that use staked or crimped primers, but they still went bang when I tried them.
There is one exception to my otherwise perfect record of noiseless extractions.
I had a few very deteriorated corroded shotgun shells given to me. People give me a lot of junk they don't know what to do with! I cut them open and removed their contents.
Instead of taking them outside and hitting them with a hammer (As I did when I was a kid) I decided to try easily tapping one out with an oversized punch. I placed the brass over a hollow in a jig and began to tap very lightly.
It was that third little tap that let me know this wasn't a good idea.
Other than the sharp edge of the brass making a small cut in my left index finger no harm was done.
Lesson learned. Hit em' with a hammer and move on...
In fact, when recharging primers, you can put the priming compound in the cup dry and then add a drop of acetone.
In this case, I didn't want to risk diluting the presumed case lube and have it run down into the primer.
