gunsforthought
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handejector
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For one thing, you'll be blowing the UN-supported primers.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
What bottleneck cartridge would this theoretical revolver be chambered for?
The piece that goes over the back or rim would be slamed into recoil shield and jam up. The piece in the groove will never hold the pressure plus it is a mechanical nightmare to make work within the size limits. Notice the short life of the clip-less 9mm that had al lthe little arms.
A straighter wall case solves the problem anyway. But, I don't really have problems with either my Jet and less my 22 Harvey KayChuck . I do have problems with a 22TCM cylinder I made but the pressure is way higher on it than the others
We will see what happens when I finish my 30 herrett revolver built on an X frame
A straighter wall case solves the problem anyway. But, I don't really have problems with either my Jet and less my 22 Harvey KayChuck . I do have problems with a 22TCM cylinder I made but the pressure is way higher on it than the others
We will see what happens when I finish my 30 herrett revolver built on an X frame
The answer is way simpler. Keep your chambers and ammo clean and oil free and with the smallest possible taper sections. Then simple case to chamber wall adhesion from the pressure will keep them in place as long as you don't go over the brass's elastic limits. That is the point at which it permanently deforms. I get 1850fps with 40 gr PVI loads in my 6'' 22 Jet and if I stick to that velocity with reloads using Remington factory brass I don't have any problems. Same with my Harvey Kay Chuck
If I want faster, I switch to my 221 fireball XP100 and punch out 52 gr HP at 2500fps or I can go to my 15" barreled XP100 that I rebarreled to 6mm Remington and do 70gr HP at 2800fps and 100 gr at 2400fps.
But, to go hotter working with something like your idea, why not simply make something similar to a transfer bar only have it slide up and down in cylinder side of the recoils shield. Make it only say .125 thick at the case head area, have the slot it slides in just .122 deep, so when it is in fire position it only sticks out of recoil shield .002. The bar would have a hole in it for an extra long (.002-.003) tapered frame mounted firing pin that passes through it and retracts allowing the bar to slide down and let the case head and cylinder clear. I guess there is no real reason a hammer mounted pin wouldn't work and is simpler.
Fewer bigger pieces
If I want faster, I switch to my 221 fireball XP100 and punch out 52 gr HP at 2500fps or I can go to my 15" barreled XP100 that I rebarreled to 6mm Remington and do 70gr HP at 2800fps and 100 gr at 2400fps.
But, to go hotter working with something like your idea, why not simply make something similar to a transfer bar only have it slide up and down in cylinder side of the recoils shield. Make it only say .125 thick at the case head area, have the slot it slides in just .122 deep, so when it is in fire position it only sticks out of recoil shield .002. The bar would have a hole in it for an extra long (.002-.003) tapered frame mounted firing pin that passes through it and retracts allowing the bar to slide down and let the case head and cylinder clear. I guess there is no real reason a hammer mounted pin wouldn't work and is simpler.
Fewer bigger pieces
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What Cartridge?
What cartridge, standard and/or wildcat are you talking about? I shoot 9mm, 38 Super, 40 S&W, 10mm, and 45ACP in revolvers using full moon clips. The full moon clip attaches into the groove above the rim of the case. This places the base of the cartridge, which is solid brass, inside the chamber of the cylinder. I have never had any problems with any of these calibers expanding the case at the base. Like Steelslaver, I shoot the .224 Harvey K-Chuk and the 22 Rem jet which are both rimmed bottle neck cases and have had no problems. Using a moon clip on a case maintains the headspace which does not care if the case is straight walled, tapered walled, and or bottle neck. Is this a solution to a problem that does not exist?
jcelect
What cartridge, standard and/or wildcat are you talking about? I shoot 9mm, 38 Super, 40 S&W, 10mm, and 45ACP in revolvers using full moon clips. The full moon clip attaches into the groove above the rim of the case. This places the base of the cartridge, which is solid brass, inside the chamber of the cylinder. I have never had any problems with any of these calibers expanding the case at the base. Like Steelslaver, I shoot the .224 Harvey K-Chuk and the 22 Rem jet which are both rimmed bottle neck cases and have had no problems. Using a moon clip on a case maintains the headspace which does not care if the case is straight walled, tapered walled, and or bottle neck. Is this a solution to a problem that does not exist?
jcelect
Protocall_Design
Vendor
As it happens, I will be experimenting with 357 Sig on moonclips in a revolver. I'm waiting on the chamber reamer from Manson, and need to find some brass. It should be fairly straightforward to cut a cylinder for 40 moonclips and rechamber it. The 357 Sig is essentially a 40 S&W necked down to 9mm. Due to chamber wall thickness, these will only be light to medium target loads.
The object of this experiment is to see if a 355 bullet going into a 420 chamber makes it easier to reload the gun quickly. Also, I expect to find out if the shoulder holds the case back and makes it drag on the recoil shield after firing.
If anyone knows of a cheap or free source of 357 Sig brass, you can let me know in a PM.
Stay tuned. All this will not happen overnight.
The object of this experiment is to see if a 355 bullet going into a 420 chamber makes it easier to reload the gun quickly. Also, I expect to find out if the shoulder holds the case back and makes it drag on the recoil shield after firing.
If anyone knows of a cheap or free source of 357 Sig brass, you can let me know in a PM.
Stay tuned. All this will not happen overnight.
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Interesting. I do not think you will have any problems with low pressure loads and clean brass and chambers. I believe the 22Jet is a poor designing because of the long taper from body to neck, but I don't have problems with mine. The 22 Saber Jet or Super Jet is a better case design. Basically a blown out Jet case. If I could find another 22 Jet cylinder at a reasonable price I would make one for my model 53
I reamed a K22 cylinder to 22TCM, a rimless bottle neck cartridge. I works fine except for difficult extraction with factory rounds. None at all if I keep the pressure down and run around 1850fps. Factory ammo runs at 38,000psi, which is kind of scary in a K frame cylinder.
I reamed a K22 cylinder to 22TCM, a rimless bottle neck cartridge. I works fine except for difficult extraction with factory rounds. None at all if I keep the pressure down and run around 1850fps. Factory ammo runs at 38,000psi, which is kind of scary in a K frame cylinder.
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