Did you get trigger job...how did it turn out?

[Peter M. Eick]

I bought a Python that had a bad factory trigger. It looked great, but the trigger stank. That is why I bought it cheaply. I took it to Teddy Jacobson back about 2002. I believe he charged me about $125 for the work. He took a poor gritty nasty trigger and turned it into a work of art. It is one of the nicest smoothest releases that I have and has just a touch of stacking that I actually like because I grew up with Colts.

Highly recommended if you have a dodgy one.

 

[gnystrom]

I have done every one of my Smiths with a hard Arkansas stone and a Wolff spring kit. There are a couple of great videos available online to get you started. With a minimum of effort, the smoothness will be greatly improved and about 3# will be gone from the DA pull.

 

[fixitfred]

My guns would be hammerless. The Smiths seem kinda hard with trigger pull. I was looking to improve them. But I want the same reliability as I got with new guns.

Recently I bought a new Ruger LCR .327. It jams right out of the box. Every few pulls the trigger gets stuck. I have to work the trigger to get it to return. The action is also rough, worse than the cheapest revolver out there...I'm done with Ruger.

Snapshots : Photo

I wrote Ruger last week and still have not heard from them. If the Smiths trigger on the snubs will be less reliable with a trigger job then I will leave them as-is.

Ruger has what might be the best customer service in the industry. One call and you might have agreed.

It's 2015 soon to be 2016 who writes to a company?

Assuming you already gave it a good cleaning and lube I'm sure if there was something wrong with it they would make it right.

 

[Jeff423]

I'm not really sure why you say this since part of a decent action job does normally require stoning the SA bevel on the 'trigger'. Now of course you NEVER touch the hammer ledge as this is but a few thousandths deep and you'll never get a SA to hold safely and you'll need to buy a new hammer. But stoning the trigger SA bevel is a process taught in all good gunsmithing schools and as far as I know Brownell's still sell stoning fixtures for almost all revolvers and autos especially 1911's. I might add that with a good fixture you can lighten or increase the trigger break poundage - it goes both ways. I've salvaged a decent number of do-it-to-yourselfers triggers using good stone and a fixture. Sharper the bevel edge heavier the break.

Now when I was in business I often turned away guys who walked in and wanted just a TRIGGER JOB but usually there was something else about the guy or the gun that prodded that decision. Anyway if you walk away from any gunsmith who stones a S&W trigger bevel your going to find your options getting pretty thin and I'd say less skilled.

Regards

Almost every time I buy a S&W revolver I buy a hammer from ebay. I then pull out the factory hammer, label it and put it aside. I then go through the whole internal smoothing/polishing routine, rebound slide, etc and normally install a reduced power rebound spring. Finally I put the trigger on a Power Custom Series One fixture and polish the sear at the factory angle. If that doesn't get it light enough then I adjust the angle per the instructions that come with the jig, but I never touch the hammer. This gives me a trigger at about 2 - 2.5 lbs with no creep or push off.
However:
I only shoot single action at paper.
I don't use the guns for any other purpose.
If I sell the gun I reinstall the factory trigger and rebound spring.
Once I bought a 14-3 that had a SA trigger that was about 1 pound and had a bad push off problem. With the stoning fixture I was able to re-adjust the sear to the proper angle and got it to about 3 lbs with no push off. Although I should point out that there are instructions on this site about curing pushoff with using a fixture.

Jeff

 

[Wee Hooker]

The problem with shipping a handgun out for work is that the cost of the shipping often costs as much as the work. (Usually $40-80 depending on carriers/process.) Sounds like you just want a better DA pull and not in need of a competition level job. If that's the case, your options open up. If your even remotely mechanically inclined, it's not hard to install a spring kit yourself. (Youtube has many a good tutorial on the topic.) If your not, I'd find a reputable local gunsmith.