Digital, Dial or Vernier Caliper, or Micrometer

[sjs]

I am using a cheap dial caliper and am not sure of readings because the number depends on how tightly I close the jaws. I don't know what is a correct amount of pressure.

I would like to buy a new set and while shopping I see not only a choice between digital and dial, but I read about vernier calipers and micrometers.

Which of these will help me most with my question about how tightly the jaws should be closed? Maybe they are all the same in that regard.

Also, what is the basic difference between all these; i.e. when would you want one versus a different type?

I would not want to spend more than 50-75 bucks on one. Thanks.

 

[Daver7]

I'm retired from 40 years doing Tool and Die work. I have all 3. My wife uses the digital they
are nice to convert from imperial to metric, for me the verniers are starting to get hard to read
on the calipers so I use dial most of the time.

It sounds to me like you need to learn how to use the calipers. You need to learn how much
force to put on them. Get something of a known size(gage pin or 1 2 3 block it doesn't matter)
practice measuring it until you get the reading your suppose to.

Hope that makes since.

 

[WR Moore]

None of the above will help you on the question of how tightly to clamp the measuring device. All require "feel" to determine proper pressure. The only exception would be a micrometer with a tensioned tail that's used to achieve consistent pressure for repeatable measurements. That would be both out of your price range and difficult to use on round items.

Forget digital. The vernier caliphers were standard for a century or so and very accurate if you learn how to read the vernier. Don't buy one unless it comes with directions. Good dial calipers are probably out of your price range.

Now then, pressure. You want contact with the object being measured, but only sufficient pressure to have good contact. Get a piece of round bar stock at the hardware store and practice measuring it until you learn the pressure needed to get a good, consistent reading. You're measuring the item, not compressing the material. Maybe hit a local machine shop and buy a piece of bar stock and ask one of their machinists to measure it for you as a reference.

 

[zonker5]

Good dial calipers can be found for a reasonable price at pawn shops and sometimes estate sales. I got a nice Mitutoyo 6" for $25 at a hock shop. I don't like digital, I am not convinced that they will not vary with battery strength.

Use something of a known size and practice to get a feel for how hard to close. A jacketed or plated bullet will work or for a smaller size a feeler gauge blade is accurate.

 

[Forrest r]

I've used all 3 but more importantly I use gauges to test what I'm measuring with all the time.



Those things not only test the accuracy of the tool I'm using to measure with. The test my accuray with the tool I'm using.

Sweat blocks, round gauges, square gauges. They all work along with the wrenches to adjust the measuring tools if needed.


Heck even a cheap set of pin gauges comes in extremely handy for any reloader.


Get more tools to measure with along with different types/styles of gauges. Sometimes the difference between .3585 and .358 saves a lot of head scratching.
Used to buy a lot flea powder and did a lot of scratching until I got smart and started spending the $$$ on different gauges to test my dial calipers & mic's.
I don't use the verniers much anymore & have actually sold most of them off, old eyes. I prefer the dial calipers over the digital but then again that's just me. I'm sure others prefer the digitals, it's nice to have choices and use what we feel comfortable with.

 

[sjs]

Outstanding advice gents. Just got out my feeler gauges and tried it out and I feel much better already.

Thanks very much.

 

[rwsmith]

You can get almost anything you want....

Even with the best calipers will read far different between touching the measured piece and clamping the piece in the jaws. Some micrometers are made with a ratchet on the spindle so that you tighten down until it starts to click. There is a lot of technique in using calipers, especially one with sharp edges or points. I had a pair of point calipers that were so hard and sharp they would dig into the measured piece. Even if you tightened the spindle too fast the momentum would cause it do dig in to the piece. That one did have a ratchet on it.

 

[Drm50]

I've got several calipers, digital- dial- Vernier. You can get really
good deal on Verniers, the new generation don't know how to
read them, they want digital. If I am measuring something that
requires precision, I use Verniers. I have a fairly good set of dial
which I used on most stuff, both are Starret. My digitals are $40
not the best, by far. It is worth the time to learn to read vernier
scale, and to get the feel for using any vernier read measuring
instruments. I am to the point I have to use a glass to read them.
Back when I was a Surveyor, the Transits we used at the time
were vernier read, always had to use a glass even then. Maybe
I'm old school but I trust the old Vernier Calipers more than the
new digitals that are sold as reloading tools. A good digital would
be pricey for a guy who just needed them for reloading.

 

[Rule3]

There is a long thread/test out there in the interweb that shows that for reloading puposes any of the "inexpensive" calipers are just fine for what we do.

Of course the machinists and engineers (Members of the Blue Cult) will insist that the pricey ones are the ones to get. Sure they are quality tools and will hold up well but we are not building Brain surgery tools here (well sort of)

So if you prefer spending $200 or more on Mitutoyo then by all means get them.

Same with the cheap digital scales ( no, I do no like them and prefer a beam scale) but those work well enough for most people.
So the calipers bought at Harbor Freight are as good as those bought at Midway (Hornady, RCBS etc) they are all made in China.

Digital or Dial is up to you.

 

[Clovishound]

I have one of the (in)famous Harbor Freight dial calipers. After measuring lots of stuff with it, I have come to the conclusion that it is accurate to at least .0005 inches. I can easily tell the difference between a .357 and .358 bullet. If it is accurate enough for that, it is more than accurate enough for measuring OAL.

I prefer the dial, because I don't have to worry about a battery failure, and they are dead nuts simple. I can also see whether it reads a little over say .357, or a little under. The digital round off, so it could be anywhere between .3565 and .3574 and still read out .357.

Remember, once they take a quick trip to the concrete floor, even the high dollar calipers are suspect. I can easily replace the one I have now.

If I were making a living as a machinist, I would opt for the high dollar option.

 

[daniel lawecki]

It's not a C clamp you use dial calipers with care practice and more practice.

 

[Oldfrt]

I went to digital a little over 12 years ago with both my mics and calipers. You also have the vernier scale available and I have the option to zero the digital scale out so that it's easy when comparing measurements to different parts for assembly.

 

[Bkreutz]

I have a vernier and a dial caliper, both made by Starrett, I bought them when I was making a living with them. They mostly sit in the toolbox (with the Snap On tools). I'm retired and don't use them much. I have a couple of digitals (mid price range) that I use at the handloading bench. One is a large number display that I find more useful every passing year. Amazon has an amazing array of calipers at prices that are cheap. They're all made in the far East, but then again so is everything else.

 

[Peak53]

It depends on whether you are a machinist (god bless 'em) or a beginning reloader. If you need to check cartridge overall length, bullet diameter, and maybe crimp for handguns OR if you intend to get into serious gunsmithing or maybe rifle bench rest shooting. Your use should determine the amount of money appropriate to spend on a tool. Like many of the above posters, I have found the cheapest digital calipers to be a little lacking and went one step up to a dial caliper for only a bit more money. Battery operated tools are a PITA. I find the dial caliper plenty accurate and reliable for my general reloading uses. It gives me the confidence I am after.

 

[LostintheOzone]

I've got several calipers, digital- dial- Vernier. You can get really
good deal on Verniers, the new generation don't know how to
read them, they want digital. If I am measuring something that
requires precision, I use Verniers. I have a fairly good set of dial
which I used on most stuff, both are Starret. My digitals are $40
not the best, by far. It is worth the time to learn to read vernier
scale, and to get the feel for using any vernier read measuring
instruments. I am to the point I have to use a glass to read them.
Back when I was a Surveyor, the Transits we used at the time
were vernier read, always had to use a glass even then. Maybe
I'm old school but I trust the old Vernier Calipers more than the
new digitals that are sold as reloading tools. A good digital would
be pricey for a guy who just needed them for reloading.

I retired as a surveyor about 4 years ago. Learned to read a vernier on a K&E Paragon transit with a glass. Still have a K&E mountain transit built in 1911. Not so sure I remember how to read it as everything has been digital for the last 25 years or so. All I use is dial calipers now but have considered buying a set with a vernier. I've seen some high quality vernier calipers in pawn shops for cheap. Never too late to relearn how to use a tool lost to technology. I know a guy who uses an old Royal typewriter for all of his personal notes. He's a writer in his 30's.

 

[Drm50]

That was my point, you can pick up the old Vernier instruments
as cheap as new digital low end stuff. I find that most of these
are still in cases. The old machinists that used these tools took
good care of them, they were expensive even then. If the tool
isn't cased and looks like it has been abuesed, I pass. I have
instruments and gauges that look brand new, that have been
bought for $10 or less. Even the old Mountain Transits can be
had cheaper than a builders transit. If you have to send it back
for a refurbish they are still a good deal. It just depends on the
tolerances you work with, as to how accurate you need to be.
My experiences with cheap digital instruments and lasers has not
been good. I have seen the same brand and model read perfect
and another set would act like a slot machine. If you have calipers that will read .001", they are good enough for most
Loading work.

 

[epj]

I have cheap digital calipers that I use all the time. Also have dial calipers and micrometers. For me, they all read within a half thousandth or less. The digital calipers are quick and easy. If I'm suspect of the measurement, I check with another tool.

 

[Aventura]

I have a set of igauging didgital from amazon also have a set of name brand dial cal I use the digital more easier to read

 

[2152hq]

I use a dial calipers and have for many years. I started out with verniers still have them and use them once in a while just because.

I am not a fan of battery operated stuff, so the digital things don't interest me at all. Probably nothing wrong with them,,just me.
I don't build space craft., just do some reloading and use them for my gunsmithing/restoration work.

I do use a couple of crank micrometers. A good accurate OD mic can really be helpful.

 

[StakeOut]

No digital yet
Old Pre War Rostfritt Stal vernier with B&L loop
Brown and Sharpe Dial Caliper(Swiss Made) early 1960s
Cheap Dial Caliper
Inexpensive 1" micometer