firearmsunlimited
Member
Snap caps are cheap. They are added protection that certainly can't hurt anything. No one seems to balk at buying a case to protect the exterior of a gun so snap caps seem like good insurance to protect your investment.
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?
A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.
.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.
Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?
A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.
I do a *lot* of dry firing, and I always use snap-caps. Why? Because it is cheap insurance and, like I said, I do it a lot.
FYI - I started out using the plastic and spring type caps, then I tried A-zoom aluminum caps. Here is what I have discovered:
1) The A-zoom will last longer....BUT
2) The A-zoom will leave marks on titanium cylinders AND on feed
ramps of certain auto-pistols (my Sigs come to mind).
I no longer use A-zoom snap caps on a titanium-cylinder revolver or on my auto pistols. I will only use them on steel cylinder revolvers.
Eventually the plastic and spring snap caps will fail (as they absorb all that repeated firing pin energy. Did I mention I dry-fire a lot?) but the softer plastic creates no potential damage to the clear-coated titanium cylinders or my feed ramps. Aluminum may be soft, but it is not soft enough for those applications.
If anyone out there has been using the A-zoom caps a lot on guns that are not steel, take a close look and you will see what I am talking about.
Cheers,
i8mtm
I loaded the A-Zooms into my Sig's from the magazine, just like a regular round. The one I noticed the problem with was the .45 ACP. Unless A-Zoom has re-designed there snap-caps, the .45 has a slight "step" machined into the cap to simulate the bullet into the case. I found this was hitting the feed ramp on my Sig and made noticeable marks.
Running my finger-tips over this "step" it felt very rough, and you could see where the anodizing had been worn off.
I feel much better using the more fragile plastic and brass snap-caps.
I even take it one step further with the Sigs. According to some on the Sig Forum, Sig decided to change the slide pin on current models from the solid steel one to the new coiled steel one as there had been some reports of breakage due to EXCESSIVE DRY-FIRING. Apparently the solid pin in the stainless steel slides is very difficult to remove. The new design is more flexible and easier to replace should it need it.
So in addition to snap-caps in the chamber, I also put 3/4 of a foam earplug in front of the hammer, smushed into the back of the slide. Now there is almost NO impact on the firing pin or the slide, and yet the foam earplug does not impede double-action or single-action dry-fire practice. It doesn't hurt, and it can only help. That is my .02
I don't understand dry firing? Don't understand what purpose it serves. Kinda like sitting behind the wheel of a car, but not driving it. The results are totally different when you pop a cap, just like cranking the darn car.
I don't understand dry firing? Don't understand what purpose it serves. Kinda like sitting behind the wheel of a car, but not driving it. The results are totally different when you pop a cap, just like cranking the darn car.
Don't understand dry firing?
Dry firing allows you to "practice" anytime, anywhere at zero cost.
Dry firing allows you to learn the "feel" of your gun right as the hammer trips or the sear breaks. This helps to improve accuracy when shooting for real.
Dry firing with laser grips will allow you to see and learn to control your wobble.
Dry firing will improve your shooting skills.
Finally, I have noticed on some of my guns that dry firing has produced a defacto "trigger job" and the actions have smoothed nicely compared to when they were brand-new.
I believe dry firing is an essential part of any training regimen.
Cheers,
i8mtm
I don't think it will do any real damage. But a set of snap caps or a few cases with RTV in the primer pocket don't cost much of anything either. /QUOTE]
Question; what is this 'RTV' of which you speak?
I don't think it will do any real damage. But a set of snap caps or a few cases with RTV in the primer pocket don't cost much of anything either. /QUOTE]
Question; what is this 'RTV' of which you speak?
Room Temperature Vulcanization. Basically a silicone rubber sealant commonly used in automotive applications. There are a few different types for specific uses but you can pick up a tube anywhere auto parts are sold.