Do I really need to completely de-lead the bore?

[b737lvr]

I took my 10-9 out today and fired a box of LRN from PPU. The leading today was quite substantial, a lot more than I’m used to. I got home and scrubbed the ever loving mother out of the bore with CLP and a brass brush. That was a lot of lead that came out.

Point is, would yall think it’s alright if I removed most of it but not all of it switching back to an FMJ? I’ve really already done quite a lot as it is and there just some lead streaking here and there that I just don’t feel like trying to remove. See, I figured that by this point next time I send a cylinder of FMJ down the pipe it’s gonna blow the rest out anyway. Thoughts?

 

[stansdds]

Shooting jacketed bullets through a lead fouled barrel will remove some of the lead, the rest will get pressed into every pore, nook, and cranny within the bore and then covered with jacket material. CLP does little to nothing when it comes to softening lead deposits. A brass or bronze bore brush will remove some of the lead.

The most effective method of removing lead is with a bore solvent and a Lewis Lead Remover tool. A poor man's Lewis Lead Remover can be made by cutting small sections or strips from a pure copper Chore Boy pot scrubber, wrap the material around your bore brush, insert the rod through the bore, screw the brush onto the rod through the revolver's frame window, then pull the scrubber material and brush through the bore. The edges of the copper mesh will grab and dig into the lead, but not harm the steel bore.

 

[rockquarry]

The Brownells "double tuff" brushes and some Hoppe's #9 or Ed's Red works well. The bristles are very stiff and do a much better job than standard brushes for lead removal. CLP isn't much of a cleaner but it will do a minimal job. A real solvent is always best.

 

[glenwolde]

I'd get one of those lead remover cloths, and a brass jagged tip. Cut a patch from the lead remover cloth and run it down the barrel with the brass jag. It will be hard to start, but it eases up once you get it started. You'll probably have to order a brass jag online. Lewis Lead Removers work too but are kind of hard to find last I looked.

Spear Tip .357/.38-9mm Jag

 

[rockquarry]

I'd get one of those lead remover cloths, and a brass jagged tip. Cut a patch from the lead remover cloth and run it down the barrel with the brass jag. It will be hard to start, but it eases up once you get it started. You'll probably have to order a brass jag online. Lewis Lead Removers work too but are kind of hard to find last I looked.

Spear Tip .357/.38-9mm Jag

Brownells usually has them in stock.

 

[GnarlsR2]

"Do I really need to completely de-lead the bore?" YES SIR.

I clean, inspect, and lube my firearms after every use.
I don't use the barrel brushes.
I use cloth (old white t-shirt) patches soaked with Hoppe's #9 until they come out fairly clean.
I then use Bore Tech Inc's Cu+2 Copper Remover. https://a.co/d/7rFPtBF

I soak a patch, run it through the barrel, let stand for about 10 minutes and repeat that until almost no green copper can be seen on the patches.
When I'm finished with running dry patches through barrel, I can see a mirror-like finish inside.

 

[geeollie]

I'm trying out what is called on Amazon, brass pipe screen.
This is for smoking pipes. A little sizing of the screen and a jag will let you push the brass screen down the barrel but you can't pull it back and forth. I tried 3/4 inch and 270 jag for my 32. revolver. Probably going to get a larger jag. The screen compresses down really fast and my size combo is a little small.

It's plenty cheap.

 

[TheTinMan]

Unfortunately it’s good practice to thoroughly clean the bore any time you switch bullet types. Going from lead to copper is not as bad, and the first few copper bullets will take out more lead… just not all of it. Switching from copper to lead, you need to get that copper out or the barrel will lead up like crazy (and probably shoot poorly too).

 

[rockquarry]

Unfortunately it’s good practice to thoroughly clean the bore any time you switch bullet types. Going from lead to copper is not as bad, and the first few copper bullets will take out more lead… just not all of it. Switching from copper to lead, you need to get that copper out or the barrel will lead up like crazy (and probably shoot poorly too).

Often repeated, but I've yet to see any evidence that this is generally true, rare exceptional situations notwithstanding.

 

[b737lvr]

Just a quick update. I went to town with a bronze brush through the bore and chambers. I’d say 98% if the lead is now gone. Just as an advisory: stay away from PPU LRN unless you like lots of leading and black powder level of smoke…

 

[oldrookey617]

You might try J-B bore paste, the blue type. I put just a small amount on a brass bore brush, then just use that brush for that cleaning only, then follow up with cloth patches. A plastic jar of J-B will last me for years, Good Luck..

 

[MajorD]

I have been shooting revolvers for decades now, and use cast lead almost exclusively,and haven’t ever experienced large amounts of leading in the bore. Even after several hundred rounds fired, a few passes of a dry bras brush and a few patches gets it adequately clean

 

[glenwolde]

Brownells usually has them in stock.

Looks like availability is back. For the longest time they were out of handles.

 

[glenwolde]

I have been shooting revolvers for decades now, and use cast lead almost exclusively,and haven’t ever experienced large amounts of leading in the bore. Even after several hundred rounds fired, a few passes of a dry bras brush and a few patches gets it adequately clean

His was from factory loads with swaged bullets.

 

[stansdds]

Just a quick update. I went to town with a bronze brush through the bore and chambers. I’d say 98% if the lead is now gone. Just as an advisory: stay away from PPU LRN unless you like lots of leading and black powder level of smoke…

That happens with soft, swaged lead bullets, which is the type of bullet most of the big ammo manufacturers use for plain lead bullet loads. Cast lead is a harder alloy and usually leaves a lot less and sometimes almost no lead fouling. Alternatively, the powder coated cast lead bullets that are becoming more popular will not leave lead deposits unless the coating was damaged when the bullet was seated into the case. Beyond that, copper plated and jacketed bullets, which are more expensive, certainly will not leave lead deposits.

 

[MN Rifleman]

Shooting jacketed bullets through a lead fouled barrel will remove some of the lead, the rest will get pressed into every pore, nook, and cranny within the bore and then covered with jacket material. CLP does little to nothing when it comes to softening lead deposits. A brass or bronze bore brush will remove some of the lead.

The most effective method of removing lead is with a bore solvent and a Lewis Lead Remover tool. A poor man's Lewis Lead Remover can be made by cutting small sections or strips from a pure copper Chore Boy pot scrubber, wrap the material around your bore brush, insert the rod through the bore, screw the brush onto the rod through the revolver's frame window, then pull the scrubber material and brush through the bore. The edges of the copper mesh will grab and dig into the lead, but not harm the steel bore.

This…….I’ve done this for years on many handguns (and a few carbines) and it always works. Just make sure to get REAL Chore Boy all copper pads; a good hardware store should have them (or Amazon).

 

[Juan Million]

I'd get one of those lead remover cloths, and a brass jagged tip. Cut a patch from the lead remover cloth and run it down the barrel with the brass jag. It will be hard to start, but it eases up once you get it started. You'll probably have to order a brass jag online. Lewis Lead Removers work too but are kind of hard to find last I looked.

Spear Tip .357/.38-9mm Jag

Birchwood Casey makes the lead removal cloth. Cut a patch and send it trough, works great.

 

[da V]

I've had good success using some Big 45 brand rust remover wrapped around a brass brush. It makes short work of any lead.

 

[chief38]

Shooting jacketed bullets through a lead fouled barrel will remove some of the lead, the rest will get pressed into every pore, nook, and cranny within the bore and then covered with jacket material. CLP does little to nothing when it comes to softening lead deposits. A brass or bronze bore brush will remove some of the lead.

The most effective method of removing lead is with a bore solvent and a Lewis Lead Remover tool. A poor man's Lewis Lead Remover can be made by cutting small sections or strips from a pure copper Chore Boy pot scrubber, wrap the material around your bore brush, insert the rod through the bore, screw the brush onto the rod through the revolver's frame window, then pull the scrubber material and brush through the bore. The edges of the copper mesh will grab and dig into the lead, but not harm the steel bore.

You took 99% of the words right out of my mouth (beat me to the punch) - good call! The LLR is GREAT!!!

 

[chief38]

Birchwood Casey makes the lead removal cloth. Cut a patch and send it trough, works great.

Hmmmm I've got one of those but never thought to use it as a patch in the barrel or cylinder - good idea! Might just work for moderate leading or after using the Lewis Lead Remover for the heavy duty deposits. Gotta try that one!