Do it myself timing repair...

Ceapea

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I just picked up a nice condition M64 police trade in. I found that while slowly pulling the trigger in DA, the hammer will fall and there is still a fraction to turn the cylinder to get a "click". I have other revolvers that do that on some chambers. I have not had any problems with shaved lead. But this 64 seems to be doing just that. After 50 or so rd, I had a lot of lead around the forcing cone at two different points. More than I have seen on any of my other wheel guns.

So, how hard is it to do, fix the timing? I assume that I can order the parts and what, drop them in? any "fitting" needed? I am fairly mechanically adept. I'm not worried about doing it myself. I just don't know if I would need any special tools is all.

Thanks.
 
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You will likely need an oversized hand that will need to be cut down to fit the "skinniest" ratchet and then the other ratchets filed in to balance the fit to the hand. You need the right tools to do thiis. Old SW's develop carry up problems so much they should post a "how to" thread on how to do it.
 
Books and manuals are a fine thing , but I feel that in this case , you really need a skilled set of hands and eyes to oversee the project . When you take metal off , you can't replace it if wrong .
 
Fitting an over sized Hand is not hard assuming you know what you are doing, have a few basic tools and have the mechanical ability. There are a few instructional suggestions I can give.

a) Midwayusa Larry Potterfield has a descent video on his website

b) Jerry Kuhnhausen has a great "shop manual" book for smithing S&W's

NOTE: In general, I'd stay clear of the basement or kitchen table Gunsmithing videos. A few of them actually know how to do this correctly, but the vast majority will get you into trouble.

While it might be easier to bring it to a Pro. GS, if you do this yourself not only will it be repaired, you will also learn valuable information and skills for a pretty common S&W Revolver repair job. If you shoot and collect Smiths - I doubt this will be the last time this problem arises.
 
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do it myself timing repair

You may want to check a few items on your revolver that may be the cause of spitting lead and pre-mature hammer dropping in double action before the cylinder locks. First, I would check the barrel/cylinder gap with a feeler gauge and the minimum should not measure less than .004". Second, remove the side plate and observe the double action sear when you squeeze the trigger in double action and observe the hammer letting go from the sear. If it releases too soon, you may have to adjust the sear by a little stoning to hone the sear itself. Go slow and replicate the action to see what is going on when the hammer releases. Invest in the S&W Revolvers a shop manual new expanded 5th edition by Jerry Kuhnhausen for common and advance repairs on the revolvers. If you know the design and function, you can diagnose the problem and how to remedy the repair.

Nick
 
I am curious, are you talking about adjusting the angle of the fly (the little bar that is pinned into the trigger, some also call this the double action sear) or the actual double action sear that is forged into the trigger? The pickup angle on the fly is criticle. If this is not right the action may click, stubb and be very rough. I just lightly polish this surface.
With my limited experience to adjust carry up, fitting an oversize hand and adjusting the ratchets with a barrette file is the only practicle method.
 
You can do a "field fix" to get by for the moment by bending the hand to the left ever so slightly. The hand itself won't bend, but the pin it pivots on will. This will advance the timing a little, maybe enough to correct the timing.

This is not the real way to do the job. See above. This is a stopgap method until it can be done right.
 
I just picked up a nice condition M64 police trade in. I found that while slowly pulling the trigger in DA, the hammer will fall and there is still a fraction to turn the cylinder to get a "click". I have other revolvers that do that on some chambers. I have not had any problems with shaved lead. But this 64 seems to be doing just that. After 50 or so rd, I had a lot of lead around the forcing cone at two different points. More than I have seen on any of my other wheel guns.

So, how hard is it to do, fix the timing? I assume that I can order the parts and what, drop them in? any "fitting" needed? I am fairly mechanically adept. I'm not worried about doing it myself. I just don't know if I would need any special tools is all.

Thanks.

This is a fairly advanced repair. Lots of hand fitting required. Just say no . . .
 
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