DO M&P 9MM COMPACT BARREL HAVE FULL CASE SUPPORT? WILL I GET GLOCK SMILE?

[marathonrunner]

Folks, I just bought a Smith and Wesson MP Compact 9mm for CCW. I was originally going to buy the Glock 19 but the store was out of those and the MP Compact 9mm was slightly smaller and printed even less so that was why I made the decision. However, a couple of concerns is the heavy trigger on the Smith is a full 1.5lbs heavier than Glock. Been told for defense gun never modify trigger.

But my biggest concern is if I reload, does this compact 9mm have full case support for reloads or will I get the Glock Smile?

 

[chuckster57]

welcome to the forums

I have been reloading for my 9c for a few years. Haven't had a single problem with case bulge.

 

[marathonrunner]

I have been reloading for my 9c for a few years. Haven't had a single problem with case bulge.

I was also looking at my brass carefully and the brass that was shot out of my Glock 34 with a fully supportive bar sto match barrel, the brass is smooth. But the brass I picked up on the floor form someone else's gun, some have waves. Not sure if that means it is bad to use .

How many times do you reuse old brass?

 

[Bkreutz]

I was also looking at my brass carefully and the brass that was shot out of my Glock 34 with a fully supportive bar sto match barrel, the brass is smooth. But the brass I picked up on the floor form someone else's gun, some have waves. Not sure if that means it is bad to use .

How many times do you reuse old brass?

If in doubt, use a case gauge (or your barrel out of the gun), you can't tell by looking at it. (at least I can't). I use 9mm brass until I lose it or it splits, I can't count the number of times I reuse the brass (I run out of fingers and toes).

The "Glock Smile" is normally associated with .40 caliber

 

[leeloader]

Take a fired round and resize it. Then do a kerplunk test in your chamber.
-
If it fails, then take a Lee 40cal FCD and remove the guts and see if it passes thru the FCD.
-
I pick up range brass and anymore I run any 40 cal thru the fcd to remove any bulge from other guns. There's always some that won't kerplunk where I get the brass. Rather than dink around, I just run them thru the bulge buster.

 

[marathonrunner]

I have read that using cases that have bulges will make them fail sooner. I also hear of people using brass until it splits but honestly is that safe? I heard of guns going kaboom when that happens. I don't know how anybody can use their brass until it splits. I by the way shoot 9mm rounds.

 

[Bkreutz]

I have read that using cases that have bulges will make them fail sooner. I also hear of people using brass until it splits but honestly is that safe? I heard of guns going kaboom when that happens. I don't know how anybody can use their brass until it splits. I by the way shoot 9mm rounds.

I've never seen a bulge in a 9mm case, I shoot and load over 50K rounds per year. I keep all my split cases in a cup near my press, right now there are 10 cases in there, I empty the cup once a year (I emptied the present cup last August) so the ratio of split cases to non split cases is pretty low. I don't count how many times I handload a case, just not worth the trouble IMO. When I pick up my brass at the range, I don't get all of mine back and invariably pick up someone elses cases. But if you don't feel comfortable using your cases that many times, by all means, leave them on the floor at the range, I'm sure someone will clean them up for you.

 

[SMSgt]

I have a several bagsful of range cases in different calibers, .40 included, and none of them have smiles, even though I know many were fired in Glocks, including mine.

 

[Krell1]

I try to weed out split cases as I reload (.38 Spec) but an occasional one will get through. If it's not split past the depth of the bullet I'll shoot it and throw it away. Never had a problem and I've been doing this for years.

 

[marathonrunner]

Yikes! I am amazed that you all can shoot reloads until the case splits. I am new to reloading and a newbe so don't know very much but I would think a split case if occurred while round was being fired could blow up the gun wouldn't you think?

 

[Rule3]

Take out the barrel and drop a round into it. You will have your answer.

I have a Shield it is fully supported. With extremely hot loads it will bulge the case a little.

A Glock 9mm is actually pretty well supported. The reason Glock and SW MP, Shields are reliable is there is a little "slop" in the chamber Lose if you will. That allows functioning under less than ideal conditions.(dirty , bad ammo etc) So if you have a +P load it may bulge the case a bit.

There is a thread on this and Starline 9mm brass in the Shield, I sent them samples but it was only one brand of factory Duty +P ammo.

All said, don't worry about unless you are shooting +P+ loads.

 

[marathonrunner]

OK I hear you on this but what about those that say you can use the brass until it splits? I think if I called Glock or Smith tech support they would say noooooooooo!...don't use that! how can using brass until it splits be considered ok? You all not afraid of kabooms>?

 

[Rule3]

OK I hear you on this but what about those that say you can use the brass until it splits? I think if I called Glock or Smith tech support they would say noooooooooo!...don't use that! how can using brass until it splits be considered ok? You all not afraid of kabooms>?

They would both tell you that using reloads is forbidden! No warranty for you!

I load about every handgun caliber there is and 4 rifles. Out of who knows how many thousands of rounds, I have had 1 ,223 Rem case head separation and maybe 2, 357 Nickel brass split (brass was unknown origin and old junk I broke apart)

Never had a semi auto handgun brass split. You will get deformed case mouths or dings in the sides or the like.

If the case looks funny toss it. You are responsible for case inspection. Some guys may use brass a certain number of times and then recyle it. Who knows 10 times, 20??

Of course if you load +P+ loads then once or twice and then you toss it.

In revolver the cylinder holds the pressure even if a case splits. In a semi auto the barrel chamber will do the same. Splitting does not cause a Kaboom. Over charging, firing out of battery, wrong powder (over charge) are more of a problem.

Start with good new brass or VERIFIED once fired brass (like your own) Do not over flare the case when seating a bullet and it will last and last.

 

[marathonrunner]

thanks

They would both tell you that using reloads is forbidden! No warranty for you!

I load about every handgun caliber there is and 4 rifles. Out of who knows how many thousands of rounds, I have had 1 ,223 Rem case head separation and maybe 2, 357 Nickel brass split (brass was unknown origin and old junk I broke apart)

Never had a semi auto handgun brass split. You will get deformed case mouths or dings in the sides or the like.

If the case looks funny toss it. You are responsible for case inspection. Some guys may use brass a certain number of times and then recyle it. Who knows 10 times, 20??

Of course if you load +P+ loads then once or twice and then you toss it.

In revolver the cylinder holds the pressure even if a case splits. In a semi auto the barrel chamber will do the same. Splitting does not cause a Kaboom. Over charging, firing out of battery, wrong powder (over charge) are more of a problem.

Start with good new brass or VERIFIED once fired brass (like your own) Do not over flare the case when seating a bullet and it will last and last.

OK then, I think you answered my question. I will now go about reloading and not fuss or worry too much

 

[2hawk]

Excellent post, Rule3.

The KaBooms that tear pistols up seem to be mostly .40 caliber. And speaking from personal experience with .40 and my own reloads, a split case is not anywhere near catastrophic as when a case blow out at the base. And that is where the "Glock smile" comes in. The area of the case that is getting stressed is at or near the base. When it lets go there it's right at the feed ramp, and that will funnel the energy back into the mag and surrounding area of the gun.

I have had the unpleasant experience of having a .40 case blowout, with the floorplate of the mag blown off, with the spring, follower, and remaining rounds in the mag all being quickly ejected at my feet, with a pretty good shock to the shooting hand. This was with a Tanfoglio CZ pattern gun, actually a Springfield Armory product. I am lucky I had a steel framed gun, I don't think a polymer frame would've survived.

I have never had any problem with 9mm or .45ac; they will split if they are old enough, but energy deposit all seems to be into the chamber and down the barrel. The .40 guns that have been built on 9mm frames sometimes have feed ramp and chamber geometry that is somewhat compromised in the interest of reliable feeding, which is to say an unsupported area at the ramp. Put that together with weakend brass, and you can have a bad result. Fortunately, manufacturers are smart enough that they have given this issue some attention, and in the case of Glock, for instance, the changes from one generation to the next have included improved case support.

I keep this at my loading bench, right at eye level on a shelf where I can see it every time I look up. Just a little reminder...


I'd say to the OP, be safe, and enjoy your MP Compact 9. It sounds like you are certainly being cautious. But don't be over-cautious, to where anything that's not perfect in your reloading scheme causes a panic. Study up, use the search feature on the forums, and ask questions when the first two don't do it. But don't let fear get in the way of enjoying shooting and reloading as hobbies.

Just my humble opinion, of course.

 

[marathonrunner]

yikes

The KaBooms that tear pistols up seem to be mostly .40 caliber. And speaking from personal experience with .40 and my own reloads, a split case is not anywhere near catastrophic as when a case blow out at the base. And that is where the "Glock smile" comes in. The area of the case that is getting stressed is at or near the base. When it lets go there it's right at the feed ramp, and that will funnel the energy back into the mag and surrounding area of the gun.

I have had the unpleasant experience of having a .40 case blowout, with the floorplate of the mag blown off, with the spring, follower, and remaining rounds in the mag all being quickly ejected at my feet, with a pretty good shock to the shooting hand. This was with a Tanfoglio CZ pattern gun, actually a Springfield Armory product. I am lucky I had a steel framed gun, I don't think a polymer frame would've survived.

I have never had any problem with 9mm or .45ac; they will split if they are old enough, but energy deposit all seems to be into the chamber and down the barrel. The .40 guns that have been built on 9mm frames sometimes have feed ramp and chamber geometry that is somewhat compromised in the interest of reliable feeding, which is to say an unsupported area at the ramp. Put that together with weakend brass, and you can have a bad result. Fortunately, manufacturers are smart enough that they have given this issue some attention, and in the case of Glock, for instance, the changes from one generation to the next have included improved case support.

I keep this at my loading bench, right at eye level on a shelf where I can see it every time I look up. Just a little reminder...


I'd say to the OP, be safe, and enjoy your MP Compact 9. It sounds like you are certainly being cautious. But don't be over-cautious, to where anything that's not perfect in your reloading scheme causes a panic. Study up, use the search feature on the forums, and ask questions when the first two don't do it. But don't let fear get in the way of enjoying shooting and reloading as hobbies.

Just my humble opinion, of course.

Damn that is scary! I will definintely not reload .40 ever!! OK but seems like 9mm is decent. I have looked at many of the brass that I picked up from the range. The ones I shot out of bar sto I am not worried but the others, the ones I picked up that were not mine, some had what seemed a small bulge at base. I will toss those for sure

 

[Rule3]

40 Glocks and 40 BHP (High Powers) have unsupported chambers. If you shoot normal loads you will not have a problem. The whole Glock 40 SW Kabooms issue has been around forever and beat to death,

Don"t forget to add Glock, 40 SW and TIIEGROUP!

Take into account how many Glock 40's are out there and how many billions of rounds have been fired through them.

I am not a Glock fan, to big for my hand but it's not the fault of the gun.

 

[bedbugbilly]

I mainly load only "range brass" for my 9mm. All different headstamps and let's face it, you really never know how many times it's been fired. I use a Lee 4 die set and always check each round by using a "cartridge gauge".

Gut . . . before going on the turret press - I de-cap on a single stage at which point I inspect the cases. If it's split - into to the scrap box it goes. I have run some that I believe were fired out of Glock but they seemed to load up just fine. The sizing die and the FCD irons them out.

As far as being worried about shooting brass until it splits . . . lots of times you aren't going to know if it is going to split until it's fired. i.e. - it may look fine when loading but when you inspect it afterwards, you'll catch a split. How are you going to judge "when" it is going to split? On my 9mm,I buy range brass for a reason - it's cheap. I can't always find all of them and am bound to loose some depending on where I'm shooting.

The "key" is to "inpect" your brass - if in doubt, then toss it. I shoot a lot of 38 spl and those cases are reloaded many, many times. I also primarily use "ramge brass" for loading them as well - who really knows how many times they've been shot? Excessive roll crimp on those is what usually contributes to the case mouth hardening and splitting. I like to use nickel cases (just 'cause) but it doesn't matter if it's nickel plated or brass.

Regardless of what caliber, my cases get inspected 4 times - 1. when I de-cap 2. When they are primed (I use a hand primer) 3. When they go into the sizing die and 4. When they are coming off the press. If I notice a problem with the casing - I scrap it. If there is no problem and it has gonethrogh the FCD of my Lee dies . . . I shoot it.

 

[2hawk]

Damn that is scary! I will definintely not reload .40 ever!! OK but seems like 9mm is decent. I have looked at many of the brass that I picked up from the range. The ones I shot out of bar sto I am not worried but the others, the ones I picked up that were not mine, some had what seemed a small bulge at base. I will toss those for sure

Well, don't be too hasty. If you have range pickups you aren't sure about and they don't have any real obvious signs that they're bad, keep them separate and see if they will drop into a case gauge (or your gun's barrel, out of the gun) after you have resized them. If they drop in, you're good to go.

As to reloading .40, it's really no different than any other caliber. Don't take chances, know what to look for with your brass, and make sure your pistols are in safe operating condition. Do these things without fail and you can load and shoot .40 'til the cows come home just fine.

But if you want to redline your loads, lookout! I have to admit that blowout occurred in my younger and dumber days...

 

[Engineer1911]

Scary

Marathonrunner:

Damn that is scary! I will definintely not reload .40 ever!!

What is scary is your lack of common sense, your apparent failure to read a basic reloading manual and understand it, and your total unwillingness to comprehend that Reloading Ammunition is safe if you follow basic instructions.

While a mechanical engineering background is helpful in understanding pressure, yield strength of metal, comparative metal strength, metal fatique, and failure modes; none of this subject material is needed to safely reload quality ammunition.

I use a simple test for split cases: Does the case hold the bullet in place inspite of the split? If the bullet stays put, the loaded round goes into the "split case" box for final firing. That includes ammo ranging from 38 spl wadcutters to 44 mag or 45 ACP. I have never had a problem with split case ammo. It all goes bang, reasonable accuracy, and I throw the brass away at the range. YMMV !

All of my brass is range pickup because the only factory ammo I ever bought was 22 LR. I have over 7,000 loaded 45 ACP and 4,000 loaded 40 S&W ammo rounds at this time. ALL of my 40 S&W brass was fired in Glocks with the bulge. I use the Lee Factory Carbide Crimp die to remove the bulge. I load mid-range ammo and never had a problem with ruptured cases. If I want ammo with more umph I use 44 mag, not hotter 40 S&W.

Normally scheduled reloading will now resume.