do you use a mold release agent

[kybud]

I've been casting for about a month using new RCBS moulds and making what I think are pretty good bullets. Most times, I have to tap on the mould handles to get the bullets to drop out. Is this just the way it is or is there something I should be using to alleviate this problem?

Bud

 

[Skip Sackett]

KY,
Others may have a different opinion but heres mine.

I use a light tap to get the bullets to fall from almost all of my molds. The Lee molds at times need a bigger tap.

When I first started casting I thought I needed something like that and ended up making a mess. I used dry moly on the inside of the mold, bad idea. Great on the outside to keep them from rusting, bad on the inside as it can cause "wrinkles" where the spray isn't smooth. Also, it keeps the molds from "venting" properly, again in my opinion. Those babies gotta breath or your bullets will look like granny's face!

(Nothing wrong with granny's face, don't get offended anyone!

)

 

[walnutred]

I still use the old fashioned carbon black method.

 

[HAWKEYE10]

in the past i did alot of casting and i never used a mold release,just hit them with a piece of oak. when i quit casting for the day i left the last bullets in the mold to prevent rust.
good luck don

 

[Bat Guano]

I just tap on the wood handle with a hammer handle; each mold has its peculiarities (an understatement!) and eventually you find what makes each one give up the bullet. I never get too physical on a mold or hit the blocks themselves.

Been at it for some 45 years now so I have a system...

(This applies to iron/steel molds only as I have no liking or luck with aluminum.)

 

[nicky4968]

Go to castboolits and read the discussion on "Leementing".
"Beagle-ing" is an interesting discussion, too.
Finally found a use for Comet, which is not allowed in my house with the new sinks my wife had put in.

 

[ricks1]

Try Kroil It dont rust proof but lead dont stick to the mold . Spray on and take Qtip and wipe cavity and cast . On al molds once is enough steel about every 100 or so hit again or wet w Qtip and wipe cav while hot.

 

[Pinger4186]

I use Rapine Mold Prep. It's liquid with graphite in it. Just use a Q-tip to brush it on the mold really thin, and it works great.

 

[10-12]

Originally posted by Pinger4186:
I use Rapine Mold Prep. It's liquid with graphite in it. Just use a Q-tip to brush it on the mold really thin, and it works great.

Dumb question but do you have to treat the mold for every bullet you cast or will the treatment last through a number of casts?

Thanks,

Bill

 

[pps]

Originally posted by walnutred:
I still use the old fashioned carbon black method.

+1

 

[nicky4968]

The release agents will last throughout your session (one application).

 

[bloo]

Just smoke the mold good with wood matches. Once at the begining of each session should do it. Some times it helps to sharpen a pencil and mark around in the cavity. From what I read mold release is more trouble than its worth.

 

[flash60601]

Get out your 10x jeweler's eye loupe, and carefully examine the edges of the cavities. Some extremely careful but judicious deburring may help your problem, especially wth new or aluminum molds. Often the smallest burrs will be found where the siping cuts meet the cavity.

But I do like the Mold Prep, too. Once around the block each session.

Flash

 

[Dale53]

I use NO mould prep nor smoking, etc. I just make sure a new mould is cleaned THOROUGHLY, pre-heat the mould and start casting. If the bullets are sticking that means there is a burr or burrs. The "sticky" on mould prep tells you how to combat that. When the mould is properly prepared, the bullets will fall out with a little tap or two of the hinge.

Dale53