Does anyone use an 11 or 12lb. rebound slide spring in their J frame?

[allglock]

I just tried the 15, then 14, then 13lb. spring before I even noticed a difference, in trigger pull. I dont have an 11 or 12lb. spring.
To me the 13lb. still feels to heavy?
Let me know your opinions before I order any more. Thanks in advance!

 

[BobR1]

That looks like all the springs in a Wolfe J Frame spring pak for the Rebound Slide. The thing you did not mention is, Did you install the Wolfe Hammer Spring???? This could make a difference.

Bob

 

[allglock]

That looks like all the springs in a Wolfe J Frame spring pak for the Rebound Slide. The thing you did not mention is, Did you install the Wolfe Hammer Spring???? This could make a difference.

Bob

Yes I have always used the 8lb hammer spring. I just was wondering if anyone uses the 11 or 12lb. rebound slide spring? And if it is worth giving either a try? The 13lb. doesnt feel too bad, but I sure would like to try the 12...

 

[jbouwens]

I experimented with a 11 pound rebound spring in j, k, and l frame revolvers but didn't keep them in there. The trigger just didn't want to return forward like I wanted and at times would not return without help.

Smoothing the internals may lead to a better "feel".

 

[allglock]

Any comments on the 12lb.? Since it seems that the 11lb. is too weak.

 

[BobR1]

I have not went below 13 on the rebound spring so far. All of my tinkering to date has been on K, L,and N Frames. My 638 factory trigger was not bad, so I have not worked on it so far.

Just thinking. If you may end up ordering a lighter rebound spring anyway, I would probably tune on the Hammer Spring a little first. Probably 1/2 coil at a time, and see what happens. You can always order another Hammer Spring with the Rebound Spring if you get it to light.

Did you use any Power Custom hammer and trigger shims on the pins?? That might help to cut down on some friction drag.

A little polishing would not hurt on friction surfaces.

Lube the contact sides of sliding parts and springs with Lubra Plate Assembly Lube from NAPA Auto Parts. Do not forget to lube the pins.

If you reload, I would prime some brass with a harder primer than Federals and make sure it still goes Bang Double Action 5 times as you are making the Hammer Spring lighter. If you keep making it lighter, at some point the Bang will transition to Click. But you know that already.

Keep us posted

Bob

 

[robotoid]

I just put an ISMI spring kit into my M&P 340. I think the rebound spring is rated 1 lb below factory and the hammer spring equal. I lightly hand polished the inside of the frame, sideplate, and trigger spring rebound block. I lightly lubed all moving and contact points with white lithium grease on reassembly. The trigger pull weight and smoothness feel is a huge improvement over factory.

 

[SmithMarine]

I have experimented with the 12#, but just like the manufacturer says, it's for target use only. It will sometimes hesitate to return the trigger, and is definetly NOT something you want in a protection gun. You will never get a trigger pull in a J-Frame that matches a K,L, or N frame, because the geometry inside the much smaller J frame prohibits it. Just my experience of 5 J-frames, a bunch of bigger ones and 30 years of carrying on and off the job.

 

[What the]

I would just bite the "bullet" so to speak and have a trigger/action job done. The trigger will smooth up with use. Although it may seem a tad heavy the guns are built with that weight trigger for safety,yours and everyone around you in a self defense situation.

Ultimately the decision is yours.

 

[bcarpenterjr]

Amazing setup for your j-frame

I just tried the 15, then 14, then 13lb. spring before I even noticed a difference, in trigger pull. I dont have an 11 or 12lb. spring.
To me the 13lb. still feels to heavy?
Let me know your opinions before I order any more. Thanks in advance!

I have been using the 11lb rebound-slide spring in my Airweight J-frame for nearly a year and I absolutely love it! You're probably wondering how I can say that?

In order for the internal components to function well and return quickly/solidly to their intended positions when a rebound-slide spring that light is used, the firearm needs to have a really well performed action job.

Perhaps you can do that yourself if you do enough research, or you can have a professional gunsmith help you. I'm permanently paralyzed in my right (primary) arm yet was still able to figure it all out with just one hand! You can do it!

My opinion is that most stock S&W revolvers aren't going to be finely tuned enough to function reliably with that little spring weight. My J-frame is actually a rimfire .22 (making this even wilder!) so granted it requires a substantially heavier hammer spring than the other caliber j-frames.

Improving the action (a lot) has allowed me to run that 11lb rebound with the 8lb hammer spring - I understand that in a rimfire this is virtually unheard of because of the force needed to ignite the primers. Remember though, much of that force is being lost trying to cycle the action of an inefficient internal lock-work, not every pound is needed to ignite a .22! Although they are prone to misfire if the spring and action work aren't done well.

The combination is unbelievable! My Model 63 became one of my favorite firearms -- which is one heck of a statement considering my 686+ is incredible in itself!! Use 11lb rebound, 8lb hammer, and do or get a good trigger job. You WILL be very pleased!

 

[wolverine]

I just tried the 15, then 14, then 13lb. spring before I even noticed a difference, in trigger pull. I dont have an 11 or 12lb. spring.
To me the 13lb. still feels to heavy?
Let me know your opinions before I order any more. Thanks in advance!

Afternoon allglock

You c-a-n use a 12 & probably even an 11 lb in a well slicked up & precision tuned J frame. My question is: why?

The J frame is a belly gun meant for carry & close up protection, it isn't a target gun by any means.

If you run a 12 or worse yet an 11 lb spring then you really risk the gun tying up tight as a walnut when/if you ever need it to function in a stressful situation.

Personally I will run down to a 12 lb in my target guns but NEVER below a 14 lb in a carry/protection gun.

Just way too easy to get trigger lock up with real fast trigger cycling & the gun having been carried for a while with dried out lube & dirt/lint in it.

 

[L Pete]

I don't change springs in my SD guns. A lightened rebound spring can be a hazard in the "Aw, S__t" and tense moments. Don't ask me how I know this, but I believe factory spring weights are plenty sufficient to permit good accurate shooting when it is needed. I've shot revolver for going onto fifty years, and can easily handle the factory springs in most revolver whether they're Smith & Wesson or not. Those spring kits work well on the range, but not in real life situations.............

 

[g-dad]

Good info here. BTW, the op, allglock left the forum/last posted back in Dec. 2012.

g

 

[ginzo]

A little off topic.

I did this with 2 different Ruger Six series guns, added some shims from Shively Shims, and all I can say is WOW! Didn't change a spring.

My Security 4" .357 is my most accurate Revo.

This might be a direction to look in. I haven't done either of my J-Frames yet, but he has shim kits for those also.

Well don't I have egg on my face.........

Smoothing the internals may lead to a better "feel".

 

[kaaskop49]

Good info here. BTW, the op, allglock left the forum/last posted back in Dec. 2012.

g

Always pays to see that the thread is not a "zombie." I've also preached to the "cloud" on occasion. Still, interesting and gratifying to learn that I am not the only J-frame carrier who prefers to leave the springs alone. Happy 4th, all!

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[H Richard]

Will you ever be trusting your life to this gun? I never recommend a rebound spring below a 14 LB in any S&W that is going to be carried for SD. Go ahead and install that light spring then go out and see if you can fire it double action rapid fire and will the return keep up with your fast trigger pull? A smoothing up of the action by a qualified gunsmith can yield a much lighter trigger pull and still be reliable.

 

[Pef]

I use the factory mainspring and in one of my guns - a 642 - I do have an 11 pound rebound spring. This gun came from S&W with one of the smoothest actions I have ever experienced in a J frame. I also polished the hand and the star ratchet so that the return was extremely slick, and did some internal smoothing as well.

Other J's I have the 12 or 13 pound springs and I don't have problems from outracing.

 

[Coastie762]

The rebound slide performs two functions. It not only resets the trigger but it also cams the hammer back away from its fired position. In order to do the latter, the strength of the rebound spring must overcome the force of the mainspring.

In newer or unturned guns, a lower rated rebound spring may result in a slow or sticky trigger return as the rebound slide cam hangs up on the mating surface of the hammer. A well-broken in revolver or one with an action job and proper lubrication will usually allow satisfactory function with a reduced power rebound spring.

Both my current carry J-frames use the factory springs coupled with a light internal smoothing and lubrication. Actions are smooth and 100 percent reliable to date with any load or primer. I have installed reduced power rebound springs in larger frame revolvers that mainly see range use, usually 13 or 14 lbs. These are all used with factory mainsprings and were selected to provide improved trigger pulls while retaining reliable trigger reset.