Smitty357
Member
Yeah i see what he's talking about. Anyways, video is on its way. I'll post it up for you guys in a few.
Does your Shield go back into Battery After Press check ?
- Thread starter highaltitude
- Start date
mudman bob
Member
Mine is 50/50 on whether it goes back into battery.
This is a big issue for some to carry a revolver because as said, pressed against something or someone, it won't fire.
This is a big issue for some to carry a revolver because as said, pressed against something or someone, it won't fire.
Smitty357
Member
I posted the video for you guys. I've been trying to replicate the problem you guys have had. But still no luck replicating it for you.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...4151-new-video-addressing-shield-battery.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...4151-new-video-addressing-shield-battery.html
2tango2
US Veteran
I'll second what Smitty shows in his video. While there is a def difference with a round chambered, it never failed to return to full battery for me
Shield 40 made about 2 weeks ago
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Shield 40 made about 2 weeks ago
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Maddmax
US Veteran
Thanks for the video Smitty357. Yours does not stay out of battery, mine does. I have dozens of other semi-autos that go back into battery also, my Shield is the only gun I own that does this.
There are many guys on this forum that have the same issue, and there are many videos of what is happening. I'm trying to figure out how to make mine go back into battery if it is bumped out. If it is a bit of polishing or wear I'm all for it.
The roll pins come out of the M&P22 also. Not on every M&P22, but mine sure did. I didn't care, I just tapped it back in.
The front dot falls of sights. None of mine ever did.
The laser screw backs out of BG380's. Mine never has.
I must admit I was a little offended by your video trying to belittle those of us who have the problem. We are looking for help and an answer, not sarcasm.
Here is a video MontanaBigHorn posted to demonstrate what we are experiencing:
M&P Shield 9mm Problem - YouTube
There are many guys on this forum that have the same issue, and there are many videos of what is happening. I'm trying to figure out how to make mine go back into battery if it is bumped out. If it is a bit of polishing or wear I'm all for it.
The roll pins come out of the M&P22 also. Not on every M&P22, but mine sure did. I didn't care, I just tapped it back in.
The front dot falls of sights. None of mine ever did.
The laser screw backs out of BG380's. Mine never has.
I must admit I was a little offended by your video trying to belittle those of us who have the problem. We are looking for help and an answer, not sarcasm.
Here is a video MontanaBigHorn posted to demonstrate what we are experiencing:
M&P Shield 9mm Problem - YouTube
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Smitty357
Member
I wouldnt polish it, as ive already heard one person complain his is staying out of battery and his is polished. So IMO, i dont believe the polishing would fix it.
The video wasnt intended to pun anyone. I was merly showing that there are Shields that exist that dont have any issues at all. Every time we see the Shield problems, its almost as if people are trying to tell us that Shield is a bad weapon because it does "this". But the problem is not every Shield. Its something else that is causing the problem. Manufacture dates, poor maintenance or something......Just like the Shield 40 mag drop issue. Not all Shield 40s had the issue. Many of us have never had the problem and also many of people have had the problem.....Once again, we are thinking its a manufacture time frame of when the weapons were made.
OP
highaltitude
Member
Thanks to Lost Lake and Smitty357 for posting these videos. I think it clearly illustrates what is going on. The real curiosity is what is causing it.
I don't yet have enough experience with M&Ps to say what the problem is with failure to RTB.
I do know, however, that with 1911s there can be a number of problems that can cause a failure to (easily/smoothly/automatically) RTB. Causes include dirt or grit somewhere in the system, particularly on the locking lugs or in the chamber. Or a weak recoil spring. Or poor/dried out lubrication. Either way the "fix" is to smack the rear of the slide sharply. Try a good scrubbing and cleaning and thoroughly lube the system and see if the problem persists. With 1911s at least, that usually solves the problem.
I do know, however, that with 1911s there can be a number of problems that can cause a failure to (easily/smoothly/automatically) RTB. Causes include dirt or grit somewhere in the system, particularly on the locking lugs or in the chamber. Or a weak recoil spring. Or poor/dried out lubrication. Either way the "fix" is to smack the rear of the slide sharply. Try a good scrubbing and cleaning and thoroughly lube the system and see if the problem persists. With 1911s at least, that usually solves the problem.
Rastoff
US Veteran
Some will give me a hard time for saying this, but it has to be said. There is a major safety violation in MontanaBigHorn's video. Every time he presses the slide back, he is muzzling his left hand. Worse is the position of his trigger finger on his right hand. I can't see it very well and I believe it's not on the trigger, but it sure is close to the trigger.
There is definitely a case in the chamber and it is probably a live round. This is a combination for disaster. He probably wouldn't kill himself if he shot his hand, but I've been told it hurts. So, please don't do this.
To move the slide back to do a chamber check, do it this way:
Chamber checks - YouTube
Sorry if this sounds like I'm being overly picky, that is not my intent. I just want people to keep their fingers on their hands. You have to violate two of the four basic rules of safety to hurt someone. The earlier video violates at least two.
Back to the regularly scheduled topic.
There is definitely a case in the chamber and it is probably a live round. This is a combination for disaster. He probably wouldn't kill himself if he shot his hand, but I've been told it hurts. So, please don't do this.
To move the slide back to do a chamber check, do it this way:
Chamber checks - YouTube
Sorry if this sounds like I'm being overly picky, that is not my intent. I just want people to keep their fingers on their hands. You have to violate two of the four basic rules of safety to hurt someone. The earlier video violates at least two.
Back to the regularly scheduled topic.
Moonman
Member
Press Check and out of battery result, another reason to carry a REVOLVER.
Yes I do have a Shield also, and have had it since a week after their introduction.
Yes I do have a Shield also, and have had it since a week after their introduction.
feelinlucky
Member
The S&W M&P Shield is not the only compact semi-auto pistol that can stick out of battery after a press check. Try it on some of your others with a full mag.
Rastoff
US Veteran
OK, now that I'm home and can look at my gun, I've checked this issue. My M&P 45 had this issue when it was new. Now I have 980 rounds through it and it doesn't hang up any more.
So, I suspect yours will wear in over time. Just keep working the slide. Keep it lubed properly. I have Frog Lube on mine.
So, I suspect yours will wear in over time. Just keep working the slide. Keep it lubed properly. I have Frog Lube on mine.
I've tried all my carry guns and none of them do it.
My Remington .243 rifle will do it, but it has a rotating locking lug. Also, the lug is encased and wouldn't get bumped out of battery.
I'm calling S&W CS and asking... I won't get blown off by the first person I talk to, I'll keep calling.
I'd really like to polish the slide bump and maybe the trigger bar tab to see what that does.....
feelinlucky
Member
I have a gen 4 Glock 17 that did the same thing when it was new. It would barely hang out of battery if I very carefully eased the slide forward. Now, with about a hundred and fifty rounds through the pipe, there is still a noticeable tight spot just out of battery, but the slide does not stop there.
I also have a gen 3 Glock 36 I bought used. Same tight spot just out of battery. I've noticed the same tight spot on every other Glock I've handled. That's about the same thing I'm seeing with the Shield.
Polishing and radiusing the sliding surfaces will probably eliminate the sticking, (as will putting a couple hundred rounds through it) but the slight tight spot will likely be there forever.
It is apparently normal. Maybe S&W has some way to address the problem. If they do, great. I may inquire about it myself if I find out that they do, but in the meantime, it's not a safety or reliability issue so I'm not going to worry about it.
I also have a gen 3 Glock 36 I bought used. Same tight spot just out of battery. I've noticed the same tight spot on every other Glock I've handled. That's about the same thing I'm seeing with the Shield.
Polishing and radiusing the sliding surfaces will probably eliminate the sticking, (as will putting a couple hundred rounds through it) but the slight tight spot will likely be there forever.
It is apparently normal. Maybe S&W has some way to address the problem. If they do, great. I may inquire about it myself if I find out that they do, but in the meantime, it's not a safety or reliability issue so I'm not going to worry about it.
