Drag Line

brokenprism

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Is it mechanically possible to time (right word?) the gun so that the bolt drops right into the notch and doesn't fall early? Considering that the parts involved are fairly standardized within models, there should be a 'sweet spot' angle or whatever that would eliminate the line as nearly as is possible. The question is, why do so many guns have the damn line?
 
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I don't know of any way to make that possible in a S&W revolver, short of re-engineering the internal lockworks. The bolt is activated by the trigger and unlocks just long enough to clear the slot in the cylinder. The only way to avoid a turn line is to never use the gun.
 
Take the sideplate off a S&W revolver and then cycle it, either SA or DA, and watch how the cylinder stop works. The only way to prevent a turn line would be a teflon insert or coating on the stop where it rides against the cylinder.
 
Everytime you open and close the cylinder, you're helping to create a "turn line".
 
Please check under the FAQ section of the Smithing section of this forum. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html

Way and I mean WAY down in the post is a discussion on this and a methodology to help reduce this issue. Likewise I imagine RenWaxing the cylinder may help this as well. I've pondered just using scotch tape between the cylinder stops if I had something truly pristine to try out.
 
Everytime you open and close the cylinder, you're helping to create a "turn line".

I've considered that too. When I first get a Smith, I polish the bolt to eliminate any truly egregious burrs, and then hope for the best. I smile when I see engravers deal with this -- you'll always find a 'decorative' line around the cylinder there.
 
Is it mechanically possible to time (right word?) the gun so that the bolt drops right into the notch and doesn't fall early? Considering that the parts involved are fairly standardized within models, there should be a 'sweet spot' angle or whatever that would eliminate the line as nearly as is possible. The question is, why do so many guns have the damn line?

The problem is the speed at which the cylinder turns, and the need to have the stop rise into the notch really fast so as to prevent cylinder over-run.

Doug Wesson himself addressed this in a letter.
 

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I remember when I bought my first handgun. Just turned 21 and knew everything about guns. Heck, I read G&A and a few others.
It was a model 19-3 six inch, which I still have.
When I noticed the drag line beginning to form I told a older friend about it and said I was going to send it back to the factory.
I won't repeat what he told me.
 
I remember when I bought my first handgun. Just turned 21 and knew everything about guns. Heck, I read G&A and a few others.
It was a model 19-3 six inch, which I still have.
When I noticed the drag line beginning to form I told a older friend about it and said I was going to send it back to the factory.
I won't repeat what he told me.

You cannot tell only half of that story!!!!!
 
I was in a gun shop when an older 'gentleman', for lack of a better term on this civilized forum, tried to negotiated the price down on a 98 percent Model 29-3. He said "Obviously that gun is seriously out of time! Look at that ring starting on the cylinder." The counter man told him to look at every single (expletive!!) revolver in the (expletive!!) store, even the new ones, and see if they didn't have a line too. The older gent left muttering. I ended up buying a very nice Ruger Blackhawk .45 LC/.45ACP out of the same case. Yep, it has a turn line.
 
That letter is awesome. Those fellas could write a letter.

I never intended to whine about the line, and no one seems to have mistaken my intent in askign the question, but I was curious about the engineering. I thought it might be theoretically possible to drop the bolt in the approach, but I don't understand the function of the parts so I can't visualize it.

I liked the idea about tape. There must be a non-glossy tape that would disappear on the cylinder. But then why bother to protect the cylinder 'waist' if you're just going to burn the cylinder face?

Thanks for the replies.
 
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Don't open the cylinder and don't cycle the action and there will be no turn ring.

My revolvers are for enjoyment. I don't worry over the small stuff.
 
One LGS here has a model something or other and the tag reads "DONT TURN THE CYLINDER"

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 
I believe an application of wax (Renaissance Wax) on the cylinder will "lessen" the turn line, but it would have to be reapplied frequently. The beauty of a nice used S&W can be in the various marks that come with use and well cared for.
 
When I was looking to purchase a model 19 Texas. Ranger commemorative, the lgs would not let me cycle the gun because it was like new in box. After I purchased the gun I dry fired the gun and created a drag line. The lgs owner almost cried. I planned on using the gun so it was going to get the line sooner or later.
 
The answer to "Can I eliminate the turn line on a S&W?" is the same as the one to, "Can I put 7 rounds in my Model 10?" It is -- no. They are made the way they are made.
 
One LGS here has a model something or other and the tag reads "DONT TURN THE CYLINDER"

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

Yeah, I've encountered quite a few dealers that get their panties all in a bunch if you turn a cylinder. At the Nations Gun Show in Chantilly, VA, near NRA headquarters, most all the dealers fix the cylinders with zip ties so you can't swing them out of the frame or turn them. I've walked away from interesting guns when the sellers refused to cut the zip ties so I could examine the star and cylinder face, and test the lock-up. Too bad, too, because I've consistently seen more nice revolvers at that show than anywhere else.

I've got a M-19 I've shot quite a bit that for some reason has hardly any turn line. It seems to vary somewhat from gun to gun.
 
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