Drum binding problem, Taurus 357

Dean Kay

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Hello !


I have encountered a problem while checking Taurus 357 4 inch.

This could apply to all kinds of revolvers, I suppose.

Revolver worked quite normal to begin with. I was asked by our shooting club to change the trigger and return springs. The springs turned out to already softer variety, so I cleaned the thing and put it back together.

With the last step - putting the drum back in and securing it - there was a problem. If I tighten the securing srew even a little the drum will not swing freely.

Puzzlement followed.

Then I remenbered that the cover plate had had a dent on the inside front where the drum securing screw is. And I thought - wow someone really dropped that on the floor and put a decent dent on it. (Actually not a dent, but rather the opposite, a forced up spot) So I carefully filed it flat.

I suppose now that the dent was deliberately made to back the plate off a bit, so that it could be tightened without binding the drum (the screw also had some loctite on it, so I suspect someone else earlier had problems getting the screw tight without binding).

Is this a common procedure (denting the plate on the inside)?

What is the correct way to get the screw fastened and not bind the drum ?

Or am I way wrong.

Thank you.
 
Not quite sure what a drum is, cylinder maybe? Sounds like you mixed up the screws when you took the sideplate off. Take the screws out and do a try and fit to see which one is the correct one. Hint, it's not the one you have in there now.
 
Post some pictures of what you are talking about and referring to, and maybe you will get some more help. I am not sure what all details your talking about, although I get the gist of you problem.
 
Anyone who doesn't know that a "drum" is really called a cylinder probably shouldn't work on firearms...


I sense that English isn't the OP's first language and this Taurus is a club's gun. That also suggests a club outside the USA. Is no qualified gunsmith available there?


DO NOT work on firearms unless you know what the heck you're doing! It's easy to ruin something. I hope that whatever this problem is, it can be repaired. But it sounds like you need to replace some part that you "fixed."


Getting the screws back in the right holes may cure the problem, as they are probably not interchangeable, even if they look like they'd be. They certainly aren't on S&W revolvers. But it sounds like you also damaged a sideplate.

Be wary of changing springs, etc., especially on a gun that isn't your own.
 
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Texas Star;139339649DO NOT work on firearms unless you know what the heck you're doing! It's easy to ruin something. [/QUOTE said:
I sort of disagree, what better way to learn than to take it apart (being a mechanical engineer, it seems to be I have one extra chromosome). A Taurus is a great revolver to learn on (compared to a nice S&W)
 
Hello,

thanks for the responses.

Yes, drum = cylinder.

Sorry, I do not know how to post pictures.


There is a bit of misunderstanding however. I did not do something wrong on the gun. It was that way beforehand, but was not noticed, because said screw was / is not fastened properly.
It wasn´t really tightly screwed to bottom, and had loctite on it, so I assume a person before me solved the binding problem by not tightening as should be. The screw at that position of course has two functions - to fasten the side plate AND secure the clyinder crane from slipping out. The combination isn´t working here.

I was carefull and have worked on similar devices (not guns however) extensively. I watched 12 videos on youtube beforehand and fotographed all my steps while dissasembly, which really isn´t such a big thing, even with the springs.
Thank you for the warnings anyway !

I will check the crane to frame interface again, and check the crane retaining " V " where the screw comes to sit. Somehow the screw is binding at that point. Mayby the screw is wrong. The person before me put in a dilletantly handmade pin at the firing pin, but I left it in after checking length. It works.

Anyway thanks ! It doesn´t seem to be common, and peening the sideplate inside is not a common remedy. That helps a bit.

I think I will try to find or fabricate a mini washer for under the side plate screw and see if it helps.


Bye for now.
 
I haven´t touched my 686, and won´t either unless I drop it in the mud or like that.

:)
 
As said it is possible that you have the wrong screw in that location. Or it could be that it wasn't fit correctly.
Even if the correct screw for that location is used it must be fit (if non plunger type). If the screw was replaced or came from the factory misfit it can cause the yoke to bind if it isn't properly fit. The end of the screw needs to be carefully filed down until it secures the yoke, yet allows it to swing free. Examine the slot in the yoke carefully for marring and shape.
Most older style used a sq. bottom groove and newer styles used a more v shaped groove and the screw has a small spring and plunger. Not sure about which for your Taurus.
 
Yes, all you have said is correct, as far as I know.

I also have a different Taurus on loan, and it has the sqaure shape yoke. It has a screw without plunger and spring.

The Taurus in question has the V shaped groove and has the screw with plunger and spring.

( No, I did not mix up screws, neither from different guns or with the other two positions of the gun (that is hardly possible). )

As said the spring for the plunger was too long. I suspect someone beforehand lost the spring and put in one from one of the other plungers on the gun, or out of his parts box.
Anyway when compressed againest the yoke it wasn´t a spring anymore, rather a solid extension of the plunger, and as such blocked the yoke when tightened properly.
It was about 6 mm long and looked a little beat, so I snipped off 0,5 mm of the bad end, and the problem was solved.
I can tighten the screw snuggly and the crane swivels without binding. It has a wee bit of play, but so does my new 686. It has even more.

All is well, now.

Thanks for comments.
 
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