Dry Firing tip for Revolvers

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Recently there was a post about risks involved in dry firing. I didn't want to hijack the thread, but wanted to pass along a little tip.
When dry firing SA, specifically for Bullseye / Precision slow fire, I press a rolled up piece of cotton fabric between the hammer and the frame.
When you dry fire this way, you'll feel the clean break of the hammer release and the hammer will travel a short distance before being softly stopped by the cotton. No hammer blow, no potential damage to the firing pin bushing, no need to even talk about snap caps.
You can really focus on your sight alignment and trigger control. Any disturbance in the former as caused by the latter is purely operator error.
You'll also come to really appreciate the amazing quality of the S&W single action "clean break". Honestly, it's better than most of the triggers on specialized target pistols.
The attached pic shows my fancy strip of cotton rag mashed into place, hammer cocked and ready to go!
With time and dedication you'll soon see your groups tighten up and your scores improve!

Jim

PS: after the hammer releases, hold the trigger back all the way before you recock the hammer. This will keep one more friction point from potentially damaging anything.
 

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Great idea. I use a piece of an old 3M brand "Classic" foam earplug to dry fire my model 17. Just stuff the appropriate sized piece of foam down into the top of the frame cut out provided for the hammer. When the hammer falls, it strikes the foam, which protects the firing pin and parts beyond.

I'm sure this would also work on the other revolver models with the frame mounted firing pins.
 
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Feel comfortable dry firing your centerfire handgun as often as you like. I often dry fire mine 1000 times a nice when I want to exercise my trigger finger. I've never had a problem in over 40 years of doing it.

For a rimfire, always make sure you are using Snap Caps or DryWall Hangers or you will damage the cylinder.
 
An old time shooter showed me the folded piece of rubber years ago, although today I use snap caps. For rim fire I recommend dry wall screw anchors, cheap, the bright yellow ones are easy to see.
For semiautomatic pistols I like to use a magazine in a contrasting color, a blued handgun with a stainless or nickel one, a stainless gun gets a blue one, and dedicated solely to dry fire. In my Army days practice hand grenades, mines, etc. were always painted blue.
 
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