Duplicating the standard Stainless Brushed look?

[Centurian77]

I have some stainless guns that are bead blasted- which scratches easily. I have some that are polished, again shows scratches. What if I want simply the standard brushed look? How hard is it to duplicate? In theory I know how it's done, wire brush wheel, but I'm not sure that is exactly how they do it. Please let me know and perhaps some outfits that actually do this.

 

[Centurian77]

I have some stainless guns that are bead blasted- which scratches easily. I have some that are polished, again shows scratches. What if I want simply the standard brushed look? How hard is it to duplicate? In theory I know how it's done, wire brush wheel, but I'm not sure that is exactly how they do it. Please let me know and perhaps some outfits that actually do this.

 

[socal s&w]

I successfully reworked the finish on a cylinder that didn't quite match the rest of the frame by using some of the 3M pads. They come in varying coarseness, I used a grey colored one that is not too coarse. I think there is a white one that is even less coarse. I think that the green and red colored ones are just too coarse for this type of finish.
There also were some scratches along the length of the barrel so I used that same pad. I then VERY LIGHTLY used some Mother's Mag Polish to slightly brighten up the finish. It all looks pretty much the same throughout now so it worked for me.
Never use steel wool or a wire brush as small pieces or parts can become embedded in the stainless creating rust stains.
FWIW

 

[bountyhunter]

I have used #800 sandpaper to do the cylinder and barrel and it looks like the brushed finish.

 

[Bobwtn]

I too have used the #800 grit sandpaper. Be sure to use at least #800, which is a very fine grit and use it gentle, til you get the "hang of it". At least with stainless, you cannot rub a top finish off, but no need to put deep scratches on it, so try the front of the cylinder first, then the back strap, always go in same direction!