Durable finish on J-Frames? 642 vs. 442 vs. 340

I am surprised to see less than 1 year old guns looking like that. I have a black 438 that shows no signs of the finish wearing off. I do not baby it either. I've only used breakfree on all my guns. It was good enough for my m16 so I figure it's good enough for my personal guns. Maybe that's why my 438 still looks good. If it does wear i'm not going to worry though. I like battle scars since I put my guns to work. I'm not a collector and my guns each have a job to do.

The bad thing though is if you decide to sell, that wear will kill your resale value.

I think it has a lot to do with what part of the country you live in. I live on the Gulf Coast (15 miles as the crow flies), and I believe the salt air and humidity are really bad for those clear coated 642s. I had (emphasis: "had") one that corroded up in about five months.....

I prefer stainless guns, which will show rust here too, if not cared for, but they don't make Model 60s in 38 Special anymore. I prefer the all steel versions of the J-frames, but I don't want or need a 357 mag in them. I'm very OK with the 38 Special steel J-frames........
 
I've had my 642 for 3+ years. Carry it nearly every day. Front pocket, Desantis Superfly.

I have never wiped it down after carrying it. I live in Texas. And I bike a lot, it staying in my sweaty pocket all day.

While the finish has worn plenty on the edges from holstering and unholstering. But never even a hint of rust. I'm actually amazed with as much sweaty carry and no maintenance that it hasn't shown the slightest corrosion, ever.
 
I'm an armorer at my department, and one day, one of my co workers came to me and asked if I would run his 638 through our ultrasonic cleaner. I said, "sure" and in it went. Well, when it came out after its cycle, the finish on the gun was flaking off. The chemical we use in the machine is non toxic, so it can't be that corrosive. What I'm thinking happened, is the ultrasonic action may have shook the finish loose.

I'm no scientist, and I don't claim to be an expert, but I don't think that Smith and Wesson had that machine in mind when it came up with this particular finish for their guns. Not a knock against Smith, it was just an unforeseeable and unfortunate occurrence. By the way, the officer doesn't love the gun any less.
 
Just as a side note, back about 30 or 40 years ago, that old black anodized finish that was used on all the Airweights of the day was quite durable compared to the finish used today. It actually protected the aluminum alloy of the frames, and only wore off, and I never saw one corroded like my clear-coated specimen was. I wished Smith & Wesson would return to using that older process on the newer guns. I would have no problem with a Model 642 that was a pinto with a black anodized frame and a stainless steel cylinder and barrel. But that's just me......
 
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Durable finish on J-frames 642 vs. 442 vs. 340

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642 003.jpgI also have a concern about the finish on the 642's, after about 18 months of IWB carry, I've noticed some pitting around the handle of my 642, is this normal, I'll try to send some pictures of mine, let me know if this is normal wear, and how could I have prevented it from doing this?
 
I have a 637, 638 and a 642 which I rotate. They all get a detailed cleaning and waxed a couple of times a year. I try and wipe them down after a day IWB.

After a few months I swapped out the 638 factory rubber grips for some wood, when I removed the stocks, I noticed what looks like worms under the finish, others on the forum have reported similar.

The 642 wore rubber Hogue Batam's for over a year, the finish under the stocks shows lots of "worms. Similar to stevep24255's first picture.

The 637 I swapped out the stocks immediately for wood, other than the usual high point wear the finish looks great. No issues under the stocks.

I believe that the rubber stocks trap moisture and speed up what ever the failure mode is.

stevep24255, I noticed that your grip screw looks rusted also.
 
Find a M 38, 49, 40 or 42.

They don't make 'em like they used to.

Any S&W with a 3 digt model number os a problem.

Just my opinion, of course.
 
The difference between the 642 and the 442 is the color of the paint they use. The durability is that of any paint. Most of the air-weights sell for under $400. For that one gets a reliable handgun with a lifetime warranty from a reputable manufacturer. They are meant for concealed or holstered carry and hard use.....not for lookin' pretty. If you want more durability spend another $250 for an all stainless model.

That said, it seems that the response S&W gives to most folks with these firearms, is that they will, under warranty, refinish the gun one time.
 
i have found both finishes to be a lot more fragile than blue on older guns. If you use Hoppes #9 on either one it will damage the finish.


I picked up a 38-2 in electroless nickle as a carry gun. It lives in a pocket holster during the summer months. 3 years later its still going strong.

Another solution would be to pick up and finish challenged gun and have it coated with Black T.
 
I've found this thread to be very interesting and I appreciate all the responders. I've read here that there have been problems regarding the finishes on alloy frames but I didn't know it was this extensive. I own several J frames, my first was purchased in 1979, but all are blue or stainless and they all look nearly perfect with years of use. The only alloy frames I own are on the model 39 and 39-2. As noted above these guns have a beautiful black anodized finish that still looks beautiful today even after 60 and 40 years. I think if I have future needs for a J frame I'll be looking for older examples.
 
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Don't obsess about the finish on a carry gun. Yes, we all want to be careful and maintain them as well as possible to protect our investment and so they look nice, but wear is inevitable. The older Model #37's, #38's and #42's are great, but parts are more scarce every year. Buy a current 442 or 642 and enjoy it. When the finish wears send it to Robar in Phoenix (Firearm Finishes, Custom Weapons, Gunsmithing | Robar), and get it refinished in electroless nickel or Roguard and get the internals NP3 treated. It will have a better than factory finish and have a slick action to boot. After that it is unlikely that you will ever need it refinished again. If it does Robar offers a lifetime warranty on Roguard and NP3.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 
I got back a 340Sc I had purchased new several years ago. When I got it back, it looked like some of the 642s and 340s shown above. I took some Scotch-Brite pad and thoroughly scrubbed the gun after a complete disassembly, removing the rest of the finish and roughing the surface in preparation for a new finish. I then sprayed the frame and crane with titanium colored KG GunCoat and heat-cured it in the oven for the prescribed amount of time. The finish matched pretty well with the titanium cylinder. If I experience any wear problems with the KG GunCoat, I'll have it refinished in Ceracote in a similar color.
 

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340PD

I have carried this one for about 10 years in a Mika pocket holster, and it has been shot a lot. You can see the grips are worn down, but Craig Spegal is making some for me as we speak. Great carry gun.

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You have to remember to shake out the sand from your pocket holster every night. Or else it will wear the finish rapidly.

I agree with the others who posted not to worry about the finish, it is a $400 carry gun, how long does it have to last to pay for itself? If you get ten years of use out of it, that is only $40 a year. Likely you will get a lot longer.

I went with black finish, because it conceals better, Ed
 
My 340 m&p that I just sold to a forum member after 2 years shows no wear at all anywhere. Carried in a leather holster that fits it so it doesn't move around & after shooting I wipe off the carbon with a damp paper towel before reholstering so the residue does not get imbedded in the holster.
 
The finish on modern (3 digit model) Smiths is pretty unimpressive.

Older 2 digit model guns do much better.
 
There was another finish option available for 442s early in their production.

I just bot a 442 with factory Nickel finish made about 1995.

I'll see how Nickel holds up compared to the black versions.
 
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