Effects of Removing Forend Cap

Sounds like an opportunity for making better aftermarket endcaps that don't touch the barrel, but still provides structural rigidity for the forearm. Otherwise, if you shoot off a bag, you POI may be too high and if you shoot with a tight sling (ala Appleseed) your POI may be too low.

Any volunteers?
 
unless you are jumping up and down on the rifle or using it as a club or running over it with a big heavy vehicle you shouldn't have to worry about rigidity in the handguard. ditch the end cap, it shouldn't matter if you are shooting from a bag or a sling supported position.(1) if your POI is changing based on whether the rifle is on a bag or being shot from a sling supported position then you might want to check the tightness of your barrel in the upper. (2) if it is still changing with the barrel secured and tightened properly you are more than likely applying too much tension somewhere in your shooting setup, not likely when shooting off a bag/bench but definitely could be a problem if you are putting a lot of tension on the sling when shooting that way.
 
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I don't want to step on any toes here. I am sure I am in the minority here and this only my experience with my MP 15-22. I can see no real accuracy improvement with or without the forend cap using the same ammo for both tests. In my opinion a 16inch .22LR barrel doesn't create enough barrel vibration or heat ( the way I shoot anyway ) to make freefloating the barrel a accuracy improvement. I do know on a 24inch ( or longer ) high powered hunting rifle sometimes freefloating or a damper on the barrel can tighten shot groups. And I have had rifles where freefloating the barrel made accuracy worse and I needed just some small amount of even pressure between the barrel and the stock. Of course this is all just my 2cents worth and don't want to create a firestorm of controversy here.

My MP 15-22 is no tack driver by any means no matter what I do including different ammo, forend cap on or off. All in all it is the most fun to shoot of my .22LRs and the meanest looking also.
 
I don't want to step on any toes here. QUOTE]

I see no reason to take offense at someone else's observation. Being able to share the experiences with this rifle is why I keep checking this forum. When I tested my rifle, it performed better with the end cap removed. My advice to anyone considering this, is to test with and without and make the decision to leave or remove it.

I agree with you, this rifle is no tack driver, but for me, it is the most fun of any 22LR I have owned.
 
I think I saw somewhere else mentioned on this forum talk about a different material for the forend cap. I think maybe something like a hard rubber with just a little more give might work better than the hard rigid polymer end cap now on the 15-22. I think such a material would have less affect from heat or pressure than the polymer cap. I would like to see a aftermarket product like that and would have one on my rifle in a heartbeat.
 
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I wanted to get S&W input on this. Basically what is the end-cap for. Is it cosmetic or functional. Here is the reply:

"The cap is for appearance. It is used to plug up the hole in front. You can shoot the gun without it and not cause any damage."

Regards, Steve

Customer Service
 
mine will be going byebye tommorrow before the trip to the range...Thanks for the 10-4 on that!
 
Heading to the range today, will see if removing end cap has any effect. Have been reading all the posts here concerning this subject and figured I didn't have anything to loose, so off came the end cap (very easy removal).;)
 
End Cap removal

Heading to the range today, will see if removing end cap has any effect. Have been reading all the posts here concerning this subject and figured I didn't have anything to loose, so off came the end cap (very easy removal).;)

Went to the range (8-2-11) put about 100 rds. down range but did not see any noticeable change in POI by removing end cap, probably because I was having trouble getting my scope to sight the same between the 4 reticles. Groups were good with the 3 & 10 MOA dots @ 25 yds., but when I changed to the Cross hairs or the 65 MOA circle W/3 MOA dot, I was either high & left or low & right. I am not very pleased with this Bushnell Trophy scope so until I can get things straitened out I will leave the End Cap off and try again at a later date. :mad:
 
I just received my tacticool shroud in mail! Soo lightweight and great quality, very impressed!! I want to say it is lighter than my flash hider and also takes an inch or so off overall length. Love it. Endcap comes off with ease after pressing the tabs in.

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I removed the front cap and cut two inches off the fore grip, no problems whatsoever. I use a TrueShotTechnologies A2 sight instead of a rail mounted front sight. I like the looks and performance. Go for it.
 
how do you remove the end cap.
thanks

First, remove the flash hider if there is one. Then look around the perimeter of the fore grip and you will see four tabs in opposing pairs through the holes in the grip. press each of these until they pop loose and pry the end cap out, very easy to do. Then slide the cap off the barrel and replace the flash hider. There ya go, free floating fore grip. good luck. FYI. I got my A2 sight from TrueShotTechnologies.com.
 
The only time you will notice anything is if you are shooting iron sights. Any stress on the handguard will cause it to flex and throw the alignment of the front sight off. It requires a lot of stress to deflect the barrel in the receiver enough to throw off a receiver mounted red dot or scope.
 
Speaking of barrel whip, has anyone tried one of these ?
Sharpshooter X-Ring | LimbSaver
Yes they work, especially for getting bulk ammo to shoot tighter groups. Someone several years ago did a test on RFC and posted photos of the targets using Fed. 550 bulk from WM and the groups shrunk by at least 30%. Some rimfire benchrest shooters use them also. The position has to be tuned for your particular ammo to get the smallest groups but just putting them near the end of the stock or handguard can get improvement. The one time I tuned one on a Rem 597 the best spot was about 6 inches from the end of the barrel using CCI MiniMags. When I rebarreled the 597 with a Volquartsen carbon fiber tensioned barrel and a Jard match trigger its accuracy got down to .5 MOA without the barrel de-resonator using CCI-SV so I did not bother to put it back on. They also work on centerfire rifles. Sometime next year I plan on putting them on a couple of my other rifles and tuning them to see what they do on centerfire (I have one each of the sporter and bull barrel versions).Thinking about putting the bull version on my .308 LR match rifle to see what it can do at 1000 yards.
 
Hi

Hi Guys, a very interesting and timely thread for me.

I propped my Smith 15-22 up against the desk while I was getting my stuff ready to go to the range.
And yes of course it fell over, so I thought when I get to the range I would bench it just to make sure it was still holding zero.

I have an Aimpoint Comp C3 on it as I use the Smith just for running and gunning in Mini Rifle Comps.
When I got to the range I realised I had left my Caldwell bag behind so decided to rest the gun on the edge of my range bag.

To make matters worse I have an injury to my left shoulder which made it very difficult to get into a stable comfortable position.

I thought I had zeroed the gun in no problem, just to make sure I decided to recheck it but because of my shoulder injury I couldn’t get in a good position.

What I found out was that I must have been putting quite a lot of pressure on the gun when I was shooting it because the group had moved up by about 4 inches.

At first I didn't believe I thought it must have been me, so I tried it again I shot another group without putting any pressure on the gun and then a group while bearing down on the gun and the group had moved up again.

What I need now is a barrel wrench to check the barrel nut is good and tight and when I do that I may just leave the forend cap off all together.

Any thoughts?
 
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