Ejector locater pins

[29aholic]

Ok, so I fitted a 29-2 cylinder to my 29-3. All went well, I had to relieve the the lug (?) that keeps the cylinder from sliding off when the gun is open. Timing and lock-up are better than when the gun was new...some 31 years and 30,000 rounds ago.

Anyway I was studying the ejector and noticed one of the locater pins had come out of the cylinder but was still in the ejector star. I slid it back in and pressed it as best as I could and playing with it, it seemed to stay.

At that point I figured I was good as long as I monitor it. BUT WAIT!!! I was looking at the old cylinder and KMA if one its pins was backed out into the star.

SO, it is obviously an issue. Question is, how do I fix it permanently?

 

[Tom S.]

Thorough cleaning of both pin and hole, then a very small amount of your favorite epoxy. I like JB weld, but since the only real force on this pin is recoil, any epoxy mixed properly should work. Use the longer setting variety, as it will give you time to make sure the pin is seated in far enough (too much epoxy won't let it seat far enough in) and that the pin lines up with the extractor. also make sure to clean up any excess, especially where the pin and cylinder meet. Then let it set overnight.

The proper way of fixing this, if you had a machine shop would be to knurl the end of the pin that sticks into the cylinder, thus causing a tighter fit, but epoxy should work just fine. You could also dimple the hole with a center pinch, forcing the metal in a small fraction, but again, epoxy will work and unless you've done dimpling before, you could end up with other issues.

 

[29aholic]

Man, that is a tiny hole to try to get epoxy in. I thought about tapping a mushroom onto the cylinder end of the pin (kind of reverse dimpling), but again these things are tiny.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Clean good, red or green Loctite. It will stay forever. Much easier than epoxy.

 

[steelslaver]

Helpful hint. I mess around reaming cylinders etc. Have had a few pins come out. Hard to hang onto and line up and tap. Took a short piece of brass round stock (you could use steel) and drilled a shallow hole in the end that was slightly over pin diameter. A dap of grease in the hole and the pin stays in and lines up easy. I do that with all small pins anymore.

 

[Alk8944]

The best adhesive to permanently mount the extractor pins is Loc-Tite "Sleeve Mount", the high-strength green. Not the least expensive though as it requires their "Kleen 'n Prime" to work correctly. One of the red products should be adequate if you don't want to go the the extra cost.

Just because the model is the "Hand-Ejector" doesn't mean the guns have one! YOU are the ejector, as in your hand. If you doubt this look at the schematic for and S&W revolver and you will find all the parts associated with the extractor, the pins, rod, collar, spring, etc. are denoted by S&W as extractor parts, NOT ejector!!!!!

 

[TAROMAN]

I use green Loctite or make new pins from drill rod.
Clean well.

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

 

[Tom S.]

Man, that is a tiny hole to try to get epoxy in. I thought about tapping a mushroom onto the cylinder end of the pin (kind of reverse dimpling), but again these things are tiny.

Use a small sewing needle and wipe off excess epoxy before inserting or coating the pin. As you've surmised, you don't need much.

 

[29aholic]

Somebody had to go there on the ejector/extractor. My take on it is, an extractor pulls the cartridge out while an ejector pushes the cartridge out.
Regardless, thanks for the tips. Anyone have a bottle of green Loc-Tite I can borrow?

 

[Tom S.]

My bad. Ejector.

 

[kthom]

I suggest after you get things all installed and lined up properly, don't allow the ejector to sit "closed" over the pins until whatever you use to hold the pins in place cures completely. Your ejector might be held captive by your epoxy or loctite if any is pressed out and captures the ejector in it's closed position!! I'd recommend doing the job with the cylinder removed from the revolver and perhaps with the ejector rod unscrewed to allow it to remain outside the cylinder while things cure.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Loctite is anaerobic. It only cures in the absence of air. If some is left on the outside it will stay liquid until the extractor sits on it. Clean the extractor seat well with a Q tip before reassembly.

 

[flintsghost]

Permatex Blue stud and bearing mount or the Locktite equivalent will hold the pins in. Just make sure to leave the cylinder unassembled while it cures.

 

[Alk8944]

My take on it is, an extractor pulls the cartridge out while an ejector pushes the cartridge out.

"Your take on it" has absolutely nothing to do with it! Extractor is the factory nomenclature for the parts! It escapes me why so many think that what "they think" should supercede the factory's designation for anything!

And, you are entirely wrong! An Extractor withdraws the cartridge case from the chamber/charge hole. It makes no difference what direction the majority of the part points, either way the "hook" of the extractor is always pulling the case from the chamber. An Ejector is the part which ejects the cartridge case from the action itself, and is mounted on the frame.

By your definition a semi-automatic type action makes no sense in having both an extractor and ejector. I can't even imagine what you think the "Ejector" of a semi-auto pistol should be called as it 'neither pushes npr pulls the cartridge case from the chamber!

 

[Tom S.]

So I guess "thingamabob" and "dohickie" are out of the question?

 

[29aholic]

Thanks for the help on fixing my S&W 44magnum Hand Extractor!!

 

[armorer951]

Be on the alert, watch your P's and Q's there ladies and gentlemen, even the most innocent nomenclature errors are verboten !!!!!!!!!!!