Ejector Rod Loose On 629-6

[sjs]

My cylinder got hard to open and it turned out the ejector rod had come unscrewed. I tightened it up and it keeps happening. I usually get about 70 rounds before I need to tighten it up again.

I don't use a tool but just tighten it with my fingers. It is not a big deal to check it frequently but is it possible this is a sign of a serious problem?

 

[Tom S.]

No, it's a sign you aren't tightening it up sufficiently. One way of doing it is to use a tool made specifically for that purpose. Another method is to use a drill chuck to hold it. Either way, make sure to insert some fired cases in the cylinder to take up the strain.

 

[k22fan]

It is a very common and very minor problem. All you need to do is apply a littler more torque without scratching the rod. While I now have a tool from Brownell's to grip the rod I did not mark rods for decades by wrapping sheet lead around the rod before using pliers. Rotating the cylinder by hand with the rod immobilized provides enough leverage. That is best done with fired cartridges in the chambers.

 

[sjs]

Thanks guys.

 

[Carrier]

There are many many ways of tightening the rod from no cost homemade to a tool costing a few dollars. I finally decided to buy a very well made tool from Gunsmither. Best few dollars I've spent.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I've used the tool from Brownells with good success.

 

[chief38]

The best method I've found to properly disassemble and reassemble the Cylinder and ER is with the use of my Drill Press Chuck. I use it without power of course and just use the 3 Jaw Chuck to effectively hold the ER beyond the knurling so it does not get damaged. A high quality Drill Press Chuck has precision Jaws and will not mar the ER finish. Tighten the Chuck enough so the ER will not spin in it unintentionally. Evenly tighten it with the Chuck Key on all 3 positions to insure even pressure.

I'd suggest taking the assembly apart, clean it properly with a tooth brush and dry off, spray it with a very light coating of Rig #2 Oil or Remoil, and reassemble in Drill Chuck. Remember, the thread is a left handed one! I personally use no Locktite as I find it completely unnecessary and if tightened properly it never comes apart by itself. Do not "Gorilla tighten it" but tighten it evenly and snugly holding the Drill's Chick with one hand and the Cyl/ ER assembly with the other.

NOTE: INSERT EMPTY CASES IN AT LEAST 3 OF THE CHARGE HOLES - so the Star Wheel does not get twisted! Do this for BOTH disassembly and reassembly. REMEMBER...... REVERSE THREAD.

I have used this method many many times with complete success, no marring, no damage, no bending and I've never had a ER loosen up again unintentionally.

 

[ankona]

Chief looks like a great idea. Curious as how you keep the cases in the charge holes while the ejector rod is in the chuck. The cylinder charge holes would be facing downward and the cases would fall out?

 

[NJM15]

I had the exact same problem with my 986

My cylinder got hard to open and it turned out the ejector rod had come unscrewed. I tightened it up and it keeps happening. I usually get about 70 rounds before I need to tighten it up again.

I don't use a tool but just tighten it with my fingers. It is not a big deal to check it frequently but is it possible this is a sign of a serious problem?

Mine came loose several times I locktited it and has been ok for over a year now

 

[chief38]

Chief looks like a great idea. Curious as how you keep the cases in the charge holes while the ejector rod is in the chuck. The cylinder charge holes would be facing downward and the cases would fall out?

Simple..... Hold the Cylinder from the bottom and your palm holds them in. Although I have never had to do so, I suppose a little tape would be convenient - buy again, not really necessary.

The thread on the EJ is very fine and you do not need to Gorilla tighten it, so holding it is a cinch!

 

[chief38]

Mine came loose several times I locktited it and has been ok for over a year now

If your ER loosens up so quickly (after 70 rounds), you are not tightening it properly. After I reassemble I have never had one unintentionally loosen up - no locktite used. Locktite is a GREAT product and I use it all the time - - just never on guns

 

[Hondo44]

Let's just caution that the extractor rod is not always left handed thread.

All newer models, yes.

But all K and N frames after only after ~ 1960 usually indicated by the model -1, but not every model.

To be fool proof, look for the 1/32" to 1/16" groove cut around the extractor rod just behind the knurled tip which denotes left hand thread.

And sometimes there's an "L" stamped on the cyl face to denote Left-Hand extractor rod threads.

All J frames.

All I frames with straight extractor rod knobs. Late 1940s Transitional models with pre war style large ‘barrel' shaped extractor rod knob can have right or left hand thread.

 

[chief38]

Let's just caution that the extractor rod is not always left handed thread.

All newer models, yes.

But all K and N frames after only after ~ 1960 usually indicated by the model -1, but not every model.

To be fool proof, look for the 1/32" to 1/16" groove cut around the extractor rod just behind the knurled tip which denotes left hand thread.

And sometimes there's an "L" stamped on the cyl face to denote Left-Hand extractor rod threads.

All J frames.

All I frames with straight extractor rod knobs. Late 1940s Transitional models with pre war style large ‘barrel' shaped extractor rod knob can have right or left hand thread.

Honda,

Your facts are correct but I was answering the OP and the gun he posted about (M629-6) which was made well after the change. That said, I am glad you did post that just incase someone is working on an older gun. .

 

[The Norseman]

Loose Ejector Rod fix

I've read the Silver Anti Seize compound
works too. Just a dab. I works because
it grips the threads by its gummy properties.

I've used a little Sticky Tack (the blue stuff
for hanging pictures/posters on the wall. On
Grip Screws before.

Just a thought.