Ejector rod removal

[Murphy2000]

Hopefully I word this correctly as to not be misunderstood.

I have a K-38 that dates to roughly 1953. I am aware that some ejector rods are threaded on with a left hand twist, and others with a right hand.

I have the proper tool for holding the ejector rod without collapsing the rod from too much pressure. It fits in a vice with a V shaped groove running length wise to the jaws. I know to always place 3 spent casing in the cylinder before attempting to unscrew the ejector rod and leave the yoke in place also.

Now, to loosen the ejector rod for the qun in question. Do I turn the cylinder clockwise? Or counter clockwise?

On another note, about what time period did Smith & Wesson change from left to right hand threads on their revolvers?

Thanks,

Murphy2000

 

[usnrigger]

Yours should be r/h threads if manf when you stated. So righty tighty, lefty loosie. I'm not sure of exact date of change but early 1960's from what I remember.

I always protect the rod with leather when using a vise.

 

[arjay]

The -1 was the change to a left hand thread,but there are some with a right hand thread.The rh threaded rods are smooth and flush with the knurled head.The lh threaded rods have a groove machined into the rod where it meets the head.

 

[Nevada Ed]

A wood cloths pin or soft pine with a hole drilled in it for vice work will also protect that metal checkering.

Never tried leather....

 

[AnthonyBucher]

First post. Hope i'm not considered bumping a thread.

I wish I knew there were some S&W pistols that are right hand rule at yoke. I got to find an assembly for one I just busted.

 

[Marylander]

You might try a PM to:
sndbgger1424

He has a stock of parts, and he may be able to help
Welcome to the Forum

 

[Jeff Napoleoni]

19-3 ejector rod unwinding

I recently bought a used 19-3. This is my first Smith revolver, transitioning from M&P/shield semi's. In very good condition, shoots straight....really enjoying it. I took it to the range and shot 100+- rounds of everything through it. When I got home The cylinder got caught up at the end of the ejector rod. Tapped it open and found that the end of it had unscrewed and was getting caught up. This rod is reverse thread. It's straight. Do any of you good people have torque specs or a solution? I'm not even considering loctite. Thanks.

 

[rosewood]

. I know to always place 3 spent casing in the cylinder before attempting to unscrew the ejector rod and leave the yoke in place also.

Enlighten me, I have never heard this. Is this for all revolvers?

Thanks,

Rosewood

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Enlighten me, I have never heard this. Is this for all revolvers?

Thanks,

Rosewood

Yes. May be less critical on some, but it is never a mistake, and usually necessary.

 

[Hondo44]

I and J frames switched to left hand thread in 1950.

1959 – 1961 K and N frames Ext rod thread change from right to left hand; can be the dash 1 to dash 4 engineering change depending on the model and frame size.

 

[bigggbbruce]

I recently bought a used 19-3. found that the end of it had unscrewed and was getting caught up. This rod is reverse thread. It's straight. Do any of you good people have torque specs or a solution? I'm not even considering loctite. Thanks.

45-50 in. lb...

 

[Hondo44]

Murphy2000,

There you have the specs, now how are you going to put a torque wrench on the rod to measure it?

Cyl alignment, removing cyl/yoke play, measuring 45 to 50 in lbs of torque with torque wrench:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhRvNOCaWXM[/ame]

Or just make it as tight as you can w/o using a 12" pipe wrench.

Or buy the clamp that Brownell's and Power Custom sells.

 

[jjfitch]

To unscrew an ejector rod without specialty tools I use a 1/2 inch drill press chuck. The chuck is used in the normal fashion as if the ejector rod is a drill mounted for use.

The couple of times I've used this were E-Rods that were rusted and needed extra torque to break loose without damage. This after hours of soaking in Kroil and an hour in a sonic cleaner!

Smiles,

 

[DWalt]

I made up on my lathe a set of brass rods (3 each for .22 and .38) that will barely fit into the chambers, and use them instead of fired cases. Also drilled a hole through a short piece of 3/8" brass rod that will just allow the extractor rod to pass through it, then split the rod on one side with a Dremel tool. I clamp it onto the extractor rod with a small vise grip to get leverage to unscrew.