I got a used 649-2 recently, and did a full disassembly, clean and reassembly. I did notice from the start a little marring on the serrated end of the ejector rod from the prior owner. During all my inspection before disassembling, the one item I neglected to verify was smooth travel of the ejector in all orientations of the cylinder. On reassembling I immediately noticed too much resistance inserting the yoke into the cylinder, occurring in just one orientation. If I loosen the ejector rod and tighten it just by hand the problem dissipates, but even tightening slightly just by hand I can make the problem very noticeable. It seems to occur only when the apex of the ejector star is pointing straight up if that helps at all. I even took apart the ejector assembly on one of my 36s, and started to notice that it seems it's the yoke itself that was causing the friction, as using the yoke from my 36, even when really tightening the the assembly seemed to perform flawlessly in any orientation. I did a gentle sanding of the inside/outside of the yoke, ejector rod, center cylinder bore, lubed everything lightly. But the problem still persists. I ordered another ejector rod, simply to address the marring, but should I consider another yoke as well? Any other ideas? Much appreciate your insights.
Ejector rod/star sticking
- Thread starter T2star
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Green Frog
Member
Sounds like a bent e-rod to me. That's easy enough to check by partially disassembling it and rolling the e-rod on a known flat surface.
Froggie
Froggie
Lots of possibilities here....but along with run out on the extractor mentioned above, another common problem is the gauge or inadequate space, and possible burrs inside the yoke. This particular interior bore area (between the dash marks in the photo) can impede both the extractor rod's rotation and it's in/out motion during extraction. Burrs and inadequate space problems also occur inside the yoke barrel, but this is another issue.
The area shown can be cleaned out with an appropriate sized reamer. (or quality drill bit run by hand) note: this is not a j-frame yoke in the photograph, nonetheless, the problem persists in j frames.
The area shown can be cleaned out with an appropriate sized reamer. (or quality drill bit run by hand) note: this is not a j-frame yoke in the photograph, nonetheless, the problem persists in j frames.
Last edited:
Appreciate the insights. I may try to work out the area on the yoke indicated next. I don't have a reamer but have some good drill bits. when you say by hand, just turning the bit by hand through the area and try to remove any imperfections? Do you happen to know if the J frame yoke would also be implementing a 1/4" bit as well? Thanks so much.
Actually, the inside of the J-frame yoke "collar", or area in front of the yoke barrel is approx. .225". (sometimes a bit over .225") If they are oversized, I sometimes have to use a #1 number drill, which is approx. .228".
The interior of the yoke barrel itself on the "non-rimfire" J-frames is approx. .230".
When I say "turn by hand" I'm suggesting turning the bit or reamer by hand in a tool handle or drill chuck. (not using a machine)
This will require some hand force, but not the unrestricted force of a machine.
Your contact areas may be quite obvious, but if not, you can also coat the extractor rod with Dykem or Sharpie to enable you to "see" where the assembly is rubbing.
The interior of the yoke barrel itself on the "non-rimfire" J-frames is approx. .230".
When I say "turn by hand" I'm suggesting turning the bit or reamer by hand in a tool handle or drill chuck. (not using a machine)
This will require some hand force, but not the unrestricted force of a machine.
Your contact areas may be quite obvious, but if not, you can also coat the extractor rod with Dykem or Sharpie to enable you to "see" where the assembly is rubbing.
Last edited:
Much appreciate your time and detailed help. I used my cellphone screen with backlight to finally elucidate what I believe is the culprit. The ejector rod appears very subtly bent, sub-millimeter, which I was not able to notice using other flat surfaces without the intense backlight. I'm going to wait for the new one before proceeding, and will let you know how it works out. Thank you again.
Here is the result of my Sharpie test, certainly seems to show a focal area of wear.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
I'm pretty surprised at the tolerance of these pieces, and I honestly have a hard time replicating what I previously thought was a subtle bend using my cellphone, as mentioned above. Regardless, with a new ejector rod on the way, I'm hoping this will resolve the issue.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
I'm pretty surprised at the tolerance of these pieces, and I honestly have a hard time replicating what I previously thought was a subtle bend using my cellphone, as mentioned above. Regardless, with a new ejector rod on the way, I'm hoping this will resolve the issue.
