To get away inexpensively on this one you can polish out the one offending cylinder 'flat',
Match up the polish with what is one the rest of the cylinder.
Then Rust Blue the area,,the final couple of cycles of RustBlue, do the entire cylinder.
That will match in the color and the tatoo will be gone.
It can all be done with nothing more than some grit paper (a few grades) for the polishing) and a small bottle of Rust Blue soln and some de-oiled steel wool.
Something large enough to boil the cylinder in on the stove in plain water is all that's needed.
I do entire handguns on the kitchen stove in an aluminum bread pan.
The markings are no where near deep enough that removal will cause any safety concern.
I cut a lot more deeply when engraving scroll work and even deeper when cutting and dovetailing the steel to inlay gold and silver.
If you don't want to peen the surface down, which is a good way to push any displaced metal back, you can burnish back down.
Secure the part very tightly in a padded vise. Polish up a bar of tool steel to a very high polish and with heavy pressure on the steel bar (a burnisher) run it over the offending marks. It will displace and push the high metal back down.
It will also polish the area quite bright for you.
But you will still need to follow up smoothing and making the area level.
back up any grit paper with a wide flat file.
I often use those Diamond Lap sticks to keep surfaces like this nice and level.
They cut fast.
Match up the polish with what is one the rest of the cylinder.
Then Rust Blue the area,,the final couple of cycles of RustBlue, do the entire cylinder.
That will match in the color and the tatoo will be gone.
It can all be done with nothing more than some grit paper (a few grades) for the polishing) and a small bottle of Rust Blue soln and some de-oiled steel wool.
Something large enough to boil the cylinder in on the stove in plain water is all that's needed.
I do entire handguns on the kitchen stove in an aluminum bread pan.
The markings are no where near deep enough that removal will cause any safety concern.
I cut a lot more deeply when engraving scroll work and even deeper when cutting and dovetailing the steel to inlay gold and silver.
If you don't want to peen the surface down, which is a good way to push any displaced metal back, you can burnish back down.
Secure the part very tightly in a padded vise. Polish up a bar of tool steel to a very high polish and with heavy pressure on the steel bar (a burnisher) run it over the offending marks. It will displace and push the high metal back down.
It will also polish the area quite bright for you.
But you will still need to follow up smoothing and making the area level.
back up any grit paper with a wide flat file.
I often use those Diamond Lap sticks to keep surfaces like this nice and level.
They cut fast.