Electro stencil on frame and cylinder

To get away inexpensively on this one you can polish out the one offending cylinder 'flat',
Match up the polish with what is one the rest of the cylinder.
Then Rust Blue the area,,the final couple of cycles of RustBlue, do the entire cylinder.
That will match in the color and the tatoo will be gone.

It can all be done with nothing more than some grit paper (a few grades) for the polishing) and a small bottle of Rust Blue soln and some de-oiled steel wool.
Something large enough to boil the cylinder in on the stove in plain water is all that's needed.

I do entire handguns on the kitchen stove in an aluminum bread pan.

The markings are no where near deep enough that removal will cause any safety concern.
I cut a lot more deeply when engraving scroll work and even deeper when cutting and dovetailing the steel to inlay gold and silver.

If you don't want to peen the surface down, which is a good way to push any displaced metal back, you can burnish back down.
Secure the part very tightly in a padded vise. Polish up a bar of tool steel to a very high polish and with heavy pressure on the steel bar (a burnisher) run it over the offending marks. It will displace and push the high metal back down.
It will also polish the area quite bright for you.
But you will still need to follow up smoothing and making the area level.
back up any grit paper with a wide flat file.
I often use those Diamond Lap sticks to keep surfaces like this nice and level.
They cut fast.
 
My handgun blue setup is pretty simple. I have a big single propane burner and a large steel pot that has blue porcelain on it for my solution. I used to use caustic soda drain cleaner and nitrogen fertilizer, but broke down and bought a 5 gallon bucket of blue from Brownells. I have a stainless thermometer. I also have 2 hot plates and 2 more large pots. One of them I put a bunch of dawn dish washing soap in the other water with a bunch of baking soda. I do it outside on nice days. I use distilled water and blue compound so it boils about 280 f. I wear a apron, face shield and heavy rubber gloves and have lots of extra water handy. The propane burner takes for ever to get the solution hot enough so I help it out with my weed burner. Once hot enough to boil the burner keeps it there fine. I clean stripped parts with brake cleaner then the hot dawn soap solution. AIR DRY BEFORE STICKING IN BLUE SOLUTION as any straight water will cause it to boil violently. I leave it in blue solution about 20 min, stir occasionally, then into soda water for about 30 min or so, then into my bucket that has a gallon of kerosene, a gallon of ATF and some alcohol.

I have done a rifle by turning it over and using a dipper to get the middle.

Once I am done and the blue solution is cool, I tape the lid on well with duct tape and the lid has a large label saying caustic soda on it. I store all of it on the floor under a big shelf in my shop.
 
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