Epoxy That Sticks To Plastic?

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I'm going to be cutting this Butler Creek folding stock down near where I have it market for a project. I'd like to find something to fill in the end of it that I could sand down for the barrel to sit in. Would be great if it was black, or at least dark.

Something like the way it is now but not rounded off on the end.

Didn't know where else to list the question

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Any suggestions?

 
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Sorry no personal experience, but J-B Weld and Bondo come to mind as options.
I'm thinking you will have to rough up the surfaces and even drill some voids to press the epoxy into to give it a surface to bond with, You will get other responses I'm sure, but these are some you can look into.
Gabby
 
JB Weld is made 40 miles from me. JB quick will set up to be fitted and filed in an hour or less. I have used it maybe 40000 times in the last 30 years. Mix a small amount at a time--It sets fast. Surface has to be oil free and rough it up a little.
 
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I would try JB Weld, rough up the area a little. I find the regular Weld "sticks" better than Quick though it takes longer to set up and cure.
 
I would try JB Weld, rough up the area a little. I find the regular Weld "sticks" better than Quick though it takes longer to set up and cure.

With epoxy, it's generally "quick & weak, slow & strong". Stock
is probably glass fibered nylon. J-B should work great, if you do
the degreasing prep. Masking tape, etc is handy for building
thickened areas.
 
One more vote for JB Weld.

I've got regular JB Weld and just ordered some of the JB Plasticweld Putty.

When I cut the stock, I'll try different things on the part I'm not gonna be using. What ever works best, I'll use it on the part I will be using.

Regular JB has done me well in the past, except when I tried to glue a plastic belt cip back on a cell phone holder. Didn't work at all.

Butler Creek stopped making the 10/22 folding stocks and I cant find out what their made of.
 
Check out a product named "Marine Tex". It's black, can be machined and sanded and has a reasonable working time.

Is seems to stick to anything and everything. :eek:
 
Keep us posted on your results please. I have run into this problem a number of times and matching the materials is the key for sure. With a piece to test on you will be able to see what works best . I would add support anywhere possible, drilled holes ,pins, roughing the surfaces, etc.. Good luck.
 
Keep us posted on your results please. I have run into this problem a number of times and matching the materials is the key for sure. With a piece to test on you will be able to see what works best . I would add support anywhere possible, drilled holes ,pins, roughing the surfaces, etc.. Good luck.

Will do.

I had thought about drilling a 1/8th inch hole thru the end of the forearm and putting a pin thru it to help hold what ever I end up working with.

I'd cut the pin short enough so it didn't stick out. Would never notice it.
 
JB mixes 50-50. When it starts to set you can carefully place the barrel in place and let set over night. Put a light coat of WD40 on the barrel first to prevent sticking. Trim the access off where you can see it before it cures.
 
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The glue with the best track record (for me) is the regular JB Weld in the black, red & white two part tubes. I swear by the stuff!

Hint: rough up the surfaces a bit with medium to course sandpaper and clean with alcohol just before gluing. Clamp work if possible. Allow 24 hours to dry.
 
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I clamped the stock to a miter box and sawed it off where I wanted it.

I'm thinking my best bet will be to fill that massive spot with a piece of the cut stock or maybe even wood, then fill it in with JB or something similar.

It's a lot bigger than I thought it would be.

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