Ever have a knife that just NOT want to sharpen?

growr

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I have a Henckle paring knife that just will not respond to my Lansky, my Worksharp nor a very tried and proven Arkansas stone.

Upon close examination I see that it was made in China, perhaps that is the REAL culprit.

What about your own problem knives?

Randy
 
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I have a Bucklite from around the mid 80's. It is some super hard stainless and no natural stone will return an edge to it. Bring on the diamond stones and tada, new fine edge. I just use the medium and fine stones, but I do own the course and extra fine stones also.

I usually use a leather strope OR ceramic sticks to finsh or polish the edge, but is a pointless waste of time on these ultra hard knives!

Ivan
 
Yup. Made in China knife steel includes (at no extra charge) steel, aluminum, plastic, cork, dog hair and fish bone charcoal.
Seriously, I've had a stainless blade that felt like I was sharpening a piece of rubber, it was so "gummy" for lack of a better word.
 
As Ivan mentioned, trouble with making a knife sharp seems to be the steel being too hard for regular equipment. Not keeping an edge probably means too soft.
 
I have a Wright’s lambsfoot that won’t seem to take an edge. I think it is too thick behind the edge, and ground too obtuse. It will probably take some work on a Worksharp.

Then there is the Imacasa 16” bolo that won’t get sharp. Too bad, because I love the feel of this one in hand, very nimble for a blade that size. I usually use files on my machetes, but I’ll need to try something else.
 
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We have several Henckle paring knives. I bought them from Smoking Mountain years ago. My wife’s got them and Fishkars & Normark filet knife in kitchen. The Normark came with little red plastic ceramic beaver teeth.
Couple trips through it and they are as sharp as I want her to have. The Henckles we have are made in Germany and kind of hard for paring knives.
Some of that Chinese stainless is junk. Some you can tune up a little on one of the RADA type sharpeners.
 
Having collected for decades I hate to admit it, however Case knives never get an edge I like. The older XX's and Tested's are fine as they had carbon steel rather than the new modern surgical steels. Early Gerber's were also hard to put an edge on as were early Buck's.
 
Not personally owned I dont.. a knife that won't get sharp is of no use to me... however, I work in butchery and we've got a couple around the plant that simply won't take an edge that we use to cut plastic...
 
I spent $125 on a Benchmade knife so I could have one really good one. It won't hold an edge for 10 minutes, less if you try to cut something with it. Sent it back to Benchmade, they said it was fine. It's not fine. I've been making things out of tool steel for 45 years. They're just blowing smoke. I have $10 Chinese knives that are way better than that one. Now have a Kershaw that holds an edge for a long time.
 
I have a Buck that won't take an edge. It's pretty old, maybe 30. Steel is just too hard as others mentioned. I think all Buck knives at that time were all US made. No problems with the newer ones.

With so many companies making knives these days I think Buck had to bump up their game.
 
I got a Cold Steel that is a Hard Steel!
A very hard Steel!
I think it’s AUS 8, a common Asian steel.
They must have had a Tea Break during the Heat Treatment.
 
I spent $125 on a Benchmade knife so I could have one really good one. It won't hold an edge for 10 minutes, less if you try to cut something with it. Sent it back to Benchmade, they said it was fine. It's not fine. I've been making things out of tool steel for 45 years. They're just blowing smoke. I have $10 Chinese knives that are way better than that one. Now have a Kershaw that holds an edge for a long time.

I think some of the less expensive knives are better for utility. Kershaw Speedsafe is what I carry these days. Made in the US out of 1660 steel. I've never had a bad Kershaw knife, but I've only owned a few.

Back before the knife revolution K-bar and Case were dependable knives. I'm not sure where they are these days because of the global economy. That's a nice way of saying off shore manufactured. Bless your pee picking heart.
 
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I have a 30+ year old knife made with Schrade+ steel. Before I learned to sharpen knives a fella that knew how told me he could not get it to take an edge.
After I learned how I dug the Schrade out and gave it a whirl. No love. Almost as if the steel is gooey or something.
 
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Wish I had inherited my Dad's ability to put a razor edge on a rail road spike if he wanted to......Me, I rely on my Lansky, my Worksharp and Dad's Arkansas stone and butcher steel

Most knives I can get very sharp, just not this Henckle.....

Randy
 
Diamond stones will sharpen the hardest blades. i can get a piece of dead soft mild steel sharp enough to shave with, but only for one swipe of 2. BTW hardness, wear resistance are not always the same thing.

If a hard blade, especially one of a steel with lots of carbides like D2 or M4 gets dull you are going to have to put some effort into getting it sharp again. A steel that forms carbides has tiny pebbles of super hard carbides that deflect wear. High wear resistance works coming and going. A straight high carbon blade like 1095 will get extremely sharp relatively easy, it will also loose that edge easier. There are no free rides

I don't care what you use, a whet stone, Arkansas stone, Diamonds etc The critical thing is maintaining a consistent angle. If your blade shaped object is very dull starting with a fine grit will take forever. Mostly I use a 2x72" belt grinder with a 2hp motor I can control the speed on. To sharpen I use an attachment that has an 8" open area between 2 2" wheels with the belt stretched tight. On stuff like the wife's kitchen knives and my hunting knives I use about a 600 grit belt at medium speed swipe on side then the other then dunk in water. I have 2 flex lights aimed at the work area. I keep a very acute angle on kitchen knives and hard work knives less acute. I keep checking the edge with the light and once I see a very tiny fine feather of steel all the way down the edge that goes from one side to the other as I make my passes, I am done with that stage. Next I go to a buffer with black jewelers rouge on it. I run thee edge back and forth until that feather of steel is completely gone. I end up with a very fine polished edge that is slightly convex so there is more support behind the edge than a total flat edge has. Not that that matters because my wife and step daughters use them on porcelain plates and a piece of glass counter cover. I can easily see the damage this does even to a real hard D2 blade. i generally use an ugly old butcher knife and a beat up looking paring knife that I am pretty sure are 1095. They stays razor sharp for a long time because the girls never use the ugly old knives.

If I get a blade that is beat up bad, I might start out using a platen backed 180 or 220 belt to reestablish the angle and get the edge down to reality.

Guys take a blade that is so dull that as my Grandpa used to say "you could ride it from here to Texas and never scratch yer butt", and go to swiping it on a hard 1600 grit stone and say it won't sharpen. It will if you just keep at it a year or so.

IF you don't allow your knife to become a knife shaped object it only takes a few swipes on a good stone or better yer diamond and a some passes on the back of a belt and your ready to shave.

I love GOOD diamonds "stones" They will not wear out, they stay flat. A scrub with soap and water and they are back in shape. I have a 2x8 that is medium on one side fine on the other. I have a hardwood block inlet to hold the "stone" with a thick piece of leather on the other side. My portable kit.
 
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Guys take a blade that is so dull that as my Grandpa used to say "you could ride it from here to Texas and never scratch yer butt"

I like those old timer euphemisms. Both of my parents grew up in Texas so I heard many of those.

Duller than a hoe was my dads description of a knife that needed to be sharpened. He did not like knives that took longer than 2 minutes to sharpen. He was a cook in the Army and owned several restaurants.
 
Had the best luck so far with Aus-8 and 420H.C. D-2 not so much which is said to be a semi-stainless steel.
 
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