Expected Accuracy in Model 63

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Getting the itch for a 4" J frame 22 again. Had one years ago but traded it off as the accuracy was lacking in that particular piece & I didn't have the patience to deal with it.

If I could find one that shoots close to my Model 18-3 I'd keep it. Any current users want to chime in on a 1970-80 era gun?

Also current used in good condition value

41
 
I love my 63 and have used it to introduce many new shooters to DA revolver. It's a "Kit" gun, a utilitarian piece of gear for convenient carry in a pack or on your person and great for basic instruction when small hands are innvolved.

Expecting it to perform like a Model 18 is unrealistic. It's not a K frame or a Masterpiece. It's a Ranger, not a Mustang.
 
I have a M63 no dash 1980. Plenty accurate at 25 yards. I shoot it mainly single action. Target stocks make a big difference for me. As far as value I have seen them list around $800+. If you could get one in the $600 range that would be a good buy.IMG_0126.webp
 
I wouldn’t expect the same accuracy that one commonly sees with K-frame .22s. A long time ago I gathered up all my different .22 cartridges and made a systematic (for me) test with my Model 34 and Model 63. I also included my Model 651. The results with both .22 LRs were not gratifying. The 651 outshot them badly.

I’ve always wondered what the results might have been if I had a Ransom rest available. In any case, if memory serves I don’t think either the 34 or the 63 produced groups less than 2-1/2” at 25 yards. Winchester Super-X solids produced best results in both guns.

That’s acceptable accuracy, I guess, but compared to my K22s, it was a bit disappointing. One group from the 651 I remember clearly because it was so exceptional I had to try it again, and it pretty much did the same thing. It was fired with CCI ammo and it shot right with my best results with my best K22 (an old 4-screw model).

I would bet having a machine rest would have given a better picture of what the 34 and the 63 could have done. I was shooting from prone, on an indoor range.
 
There is nothing inherently inaccurate about the Kit Guns. The problem is their size, making them more difficult to control in adult hands. I do tend to agree that the coil spring "loading" makes the gun's trigger more difficult to squeeze consistently, but that can be mastered with practice.

I also think (as mentioned above) that comparing them to any K frame target sight revolver, such as the .22 Combat Masterpiece, is unreasonable.
 
They're small and have small grips, any error you make is magnified compared to a bigger gun. I think they have the same intrinsic precision as other Smith revolvers, but are harder to shoot well. Many years ago, when I practiced seriously, I could routinely shoot 2" groups at 25 yards with my 34 and 63. Now I'm lucky to keep them in 5". I can still shoot 2" groups most of the time with my K frames, almost always with my model 41.
 
I had a 4 inch 63 with Pachmeyer grips and a pinned model 34 with factory combat grips. Both were very accurate for their size and weight but yes, I shot better with my 6 inch barrel K 22. It was heavier and better balanced with the longer barrel, and had a Patridge front sight. The single action trigger pull was slightly superior and I was very accurate with it, but I really liked how handy and easy to carry those J frame 22s were.
 
I've had a '70s Model 63 for many years. It's capable, but most of us shooters are not. I've only benchrested my gun a couple of times at 25 yards. I don't recall the several large group sizes but did fire one that was around two inches. I use only CCI-SV in .22s, rifles and handguns because it generally shoots well in just about everything. One group means nothing except to the people who photograph and display one good group as indicative of the accuracy of their gun.

J-frames are hard to shoot in comparison with K-frames or other similar-sized revolvers. A shooter's shortcomings are unmasked when shooting a J-frame gun regardless of it's chambering. The guns are capable of good accuracy, but it takes lots of practice with a good ammo to find this out. When you develop the skill to shoot a J-frame well, you'll shoot virtually any handgun well. I'm still trying...
 
I seem to remember from magazine articles many years ago that kit guns were supposed to be 1-2 inches at 25 from a vise with good ammo. I have always shot them off hand so my results have certainly varied. Grips, experience with the trigger, and ammo all come into play. I have an 18 and a 34. For .22 plinking or teaching grandkids, the 34 is my favorite.

Of course I remember a Phil Engledrum/Handgun Tests or Pistolero article on an RG14 that he got to shoot one inch groups at 25. So…..
 
I have a M63 no dash 1980. Plenty accurate at 25 yards. I shoot it mainly single action. Target stocks make a big difference for me. As far as value I have seen them list around $800+. If you could get one in the $600 range that would be a good buy.View attachment 835369
Thats a nice rig.

I found a set of S&W finger groove combats for mine, definitely helped with the hold, but mine still wouldn't group worth a dang.

Wish I still had it to tinker with, be a fun winter project
 
^^ I'm with the posters above who note more or less that the mechanical potential of the Kit Gun is probably pretty close to that of the K frame .22s, but that practical accuracy is going to be more difficult due to the nature of a J frame.
 
Just happened to take my 63 no dash to range today for first time shooting. Guess ok with the bad trigger and Blazer ammo. Shot at 10 yards two hand hold. Grips found at last gun show and well worth the price as can get a decent grip.
 

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^^ I'm with the posters above who note more or less that the mechanical potential of the Kit Gun is probably pretty close to that of the K frame .22s, but that practical accuracy is going to be more difficult due to the nature of a J frame.
I wouldn't be without a 4" J-frame .22, but if you're going to shoot a .22 revolver a lot, a K-frame 4" Model 18 is so much easier to shoot well. Same for an old-style 4" Colt Trooper.
 
I bought one in 1993. It is far and away my most fired firearm. The first thing I did when I bought it was to buy one box of 50 of every make and type of 22 cartridge they had in the gunstore. I took it out to the family property and set up targets at 25 yards. It was a very tedious day, shooting and marking all those targets. But I discovered one thing...it was worth the effort. The J frame 22 was very ammunition sensitive. Best 10 shot group at 25 yards was with Remington Golden bullet 36 grain hollow point. Worst group was CCI stingers. Remingtons were in the 2 to 2.5 inch range. I didnt bother to measure the stingers group. This was among match ammo, standard velocity ammo, high speed ammo from most of the major makers. I was happy that the Remington HPs shot well as this was a kit gun to be used as a field gun. For my uses, it was more than accurate enough. Enough so that I made a head shot on a woodchuck at 25-30 yards with it once.

Keep in mind also that the ammo at the time was better made and had higher QC than the stuff today. I put scores of thousands of rounds of bargain ammo through it, mostly plinking at 50 feet or so. At 50 feet and under I can hit anything I need to shoot at with it. You have to work harder to shoot these lightweight guns well...but it is worth it. I shot a lot of mice, chipmunks, and other varmints with it. Started a lot of kids shooting with it as well. I even shot horseflies and grasshoppers that landed on the targets. Missed a lot of them too!

These guns are convenient and easy to pack with a brick of 22s in a mussette bag, so I always bring it along. I have more precision 22s for the times when accuracy is paramount. But the kit gun is the one I most often have handy. Use it for what it is designed for and you will never be dissappointed. Again, I have found them to be ammo sensitive. Great guns.
 
Heck yes, the 63 can keep up with accuracy of the K frame .22's. I shoot my model 63 twice a week at the range, when I'm not camped outdoors hunting or fishing. I also shot Bullseye for 17 years. I just transferred the shooting fundamentals from BE to the kit gun.

I've been a Kit Gun shooter for the last 50 + years, starting with a pre model 43. The first S&W I bought was my Model 63 ND. I mostly shoot Aguila ammo in it with excellent accuracy. I plan to sell off my modest KG collection, including my pre war KG, and keep only my 63, it is very portable and shoots just splendid.
 
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I taught my boys on a model 63 but they always shot better with a k frame.
I personally am not a fan of the J frame trigger. Maybe its a coil spring thing.
A J frame will never have the double-action trigger pull of a K or N frame.
I don’t care who slicks it up. Single action is no different than larger guns.
 
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Heck yes, the 63 can keep up with accuracy of the K frame .22's. I shoot my model 63 twice a week at the range, when I'm not camped outdoors hunting or fishing. I also shot Bullseye
Mechanical accuracy may be the same, but the larger gun will always be easier to shoot accurately when held in human hands and aimed with human eyes.
 
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My 63 has rosewood combat grips & is nicely accurate. 4" bbl.

I use Blazer 40gr ammo almost exclusively in my rimfires because they all seem to like it, with rare exceptions.

I use my 63 when training spanking new shooters. They all love it. But Phenix is spot-on that the trigger won't be as good as a K-frame.
 
A J frame will never have the double-action trigger pull of a K or N frame.
I don’t care who slicks it up. Single action is no different than larger guns.
I only shoot mine single-action. In fact I shoot all my double-action revolvers single-action about 99% of the time.
 
I wouldn't be without a 4" J-frame .22, but if you're going to shoot a .22 revolver a lot, a K-frame 4" Model 18 is so much easier to shoot well.


I have a nice model 18 with full size grips on it and a sweet shooting model 41 as well.

I'd just like a model 63 I can consistently hit a beer can at 25 yards & scare it at 50
 
I have a nice model 18 with full size grips on it and a sweet shooting model 41 as well.

I'd just like a model 63 I can consistently hit a beer can at 25 yards & scare it at 50
I think I can consistently hit a beer can at 25 yards with mine, but I wouldn't come close to scaring it at 50 yds.
 
Refering to the 2 in 63 in the pic blow.......Had it on me when I was harrowing one day........A crow lit out the field aways away........I pushed in the clutch and pulled the 63.........Propping over the steering wheel.....I drew down and let him have it...........Bang-flop..........Stepping it off it was about 62 long steps.
I can usually ring my 100 yard gongs regularly from my shooting bench with a good rest with any of my J frames regardless of barrel length or caliber.
 

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I used to have a fairly deep collection of J frame 22's. What I found is that while the revolvers themselves had pretty decent inhearant accuracy, milking that potential out was a chore. The small size and light weight that made them suitable as Kit guns also made them hard to hold and shoot well. They would do better with ex large/oversized grips but still never as well as a K frame 22. I still keep one modern 63 for chasing off coyotes and such but I'm not sure I could hold it better than minute of beer can at 20'.
 
I used to have a fairly deep collection of J frame 22's. What I found is that while the revolvers themselves had pretty decent inhearant accuracy, milking that potential out was a chore. The small size and light weight that made them suitable as Kit guns also made them hard to hold and shoot well. They would do better with ex large/oversized grips but still never as well as a K frame 22. I still keep one modern 63 for chasing off coyotes and such but I'm not sure I could hold it better than minute of beer can at 20'.
Along similar lines, I've always thought if I needed larger than factory stocks on a J-frame, I might as well use a larger revolver that already has stocks that are the right size for me. That way, the stocks also look proportionate to the revolver size. J-frames are slimmed down, compact revolvers and the factory stocks compliment the size of the revolver.

My 63 had large S&W stocks on it when I bought it years ago, but they were still aftermarket stocks. I quickly replaced them with the right stocks. For persons with large hands, I can see the need to get stocks commensurate with their hand size. I'm not trying to convert anyone; just my thoughts.
 
I don't have a model 63 but all my K frame 22 will out sshoor my I frame

A coil spring I frame at 20 yds from a home built Ransom rest
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K frame 17-3
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4 screw 4"
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18-4
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Along similar lines, I've always thought if I needed larger than factory stocks on a J-frame, I might as well use a larger revolver that already has stocks that are the right size for me. That way, the stocks also look proportionate to the revolver size. J-frames are slimmed down, compact revolvers and the factory stocks compliment the size of the revolver.

My 63 had large S&W stocks on it when I bought it years ago, but they were still aftermarket stocks. I quickly replaced them with the right stocks. For persons with large hands, I can see the need to get stocks commensurate with their hand size. I'm not trying to convert anyone; just my thoughts.

I like these...........
 

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