Expensive Phone Call

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Jan 18, 2021
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Northeast Texas
My wife gave me a kiss on her way out the door going to her doctor's appointment this afternoon. About 20 minutes later, I got THE CALL. "Hey, the car broke down. I'm in town at 59 and 77."

"OK, I'll be right there."

Setting a new land speed record, I was there 15 minutes later, and told her to get in the truck. She said she already postponed her appointment, then explained, "I stopped at the stop sign and pulled out onto the highway, and the engine died. I coasted to the side and restarted it, and it limped a block or two, but I couldn't get over 20 mph."

"OK, so swap with me and follow me down to the repair shop." We were only a few blocks from a somewhat reputable car repair place I've used before, so I started in that direction with her following in the truck. As advertised, the car wouldn't go over 20 mph, and it tapered off from that to near nothing. I pulled off the road and called my insurance company to arrange a tow.

I never got to speak to a human. After inputting my ID on the phone, I received a text telling me to click on the link and follow the instructions. Oh, goody... after 15 - 20 minutes of diddling with the phone, they finally dispatched a tow truck... from 60 miles away.

In the meantime, my wife had killed the truck. When I told her to go somewhere cool and sit while I wait for the tow truck, she said, " The truck won't start." Apparently the 5-yr-old battery I had been meaning to replace chose that time to go to battery heaven (or hell).

One of our neighbors was passing and stopped to offer help, so I got him to jump the truck off, then sent my wife in the truck to Walmart to get a new battery installed. A few minutes later, she called to say it would be 2 hours before she could get a battery installed at Walmart. Someone there suggested she go to Auto Zone, so I approved that and sent her on her way. Auto Zone fixed her right up for only $186, and she made it back before the tow truck got there.

The tow truck arrived an hour and 20 minutes after my call to the insurance company, and he very efficiently and quickly loaded the car up and hauled it to the shop. I went inside to make arrangements with the shop owner, and we left it in his care.

When I got home, the shop owner called and said the upper catalytic converter had apparently emptied its bowels into the lower catalytic converter, plugging the exhaust. He said he'd probably have to replace both. He won't know until tomorrow morning what the cost of that will be, but I'm hoping it will be cheaper than a new car.
 
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Sounds like a symptom of something that is making the guts of the converter melt. Typically running way too rich. Don't let them just slap a converter on it then say no warranty when the replacement does exactly the same thing. Find the original source problem. The second converter should be OK a visual inspection will confirm that. Could also be a serious misfire that is dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. It takes a lot to melt a converter.
 
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Make and model?
If it's fuel injected suspect a leaking pressure regulator dumping raw fuel into the manifold.
Old style pressure regulators are operated by manifold vacuum. If the regulator diaphragm is leaking raw fuel is being pumped into the intake manifold.
Other causes could be a temperature sender is open circuited and telling the engine it's 50 degrees below 0.
Knowing the specific system is absolutely critical (type of fuel injection).
 
At least you got a tow truck. I was in an accident in early 2023. I called my insurance company from the scene and filed the claim. Since I had towing insurance they offered to send a tow. Great, thanks!

No two came in an hour, so I called back. The lady on the phone put me on hold and told me that they would have someone on the way shortly. An hour later I called back again. Same story.

I did some on line sleuthing and found out that there is a company that runs most of the towing and road side assistance for insurance companies. I forget the name off hand, but the reviews were horrible. Turns out that they don't own any service or tow trucks. They don't contract with any of those either. What they do is start calling service and tow companies in the area and see if they'll take the low ball rate the company offers. Apparently that day, no one would. Luckily my truck was actually drivable if I kept of the highway.

This was kind of silly of me as I also have AAA. They would have sent someone right out.

Live and learn.
 
Post the symptoms on a relevant forum and see what answers you get. Year, make, model and engine type should get you close. Chances are very good it has happened to many before you. Knowledge is crucial. Then you can compare the diagnosis to the information from another source. If they match then you have good information. I'll keep an eye on this thread and help if I can. 60k hours experience here from bodywork in April 1969, to running my own Z car specialty shop until I retired 25 years ago. Even painted 300 cars but that sure is not your problem.
 
Last edited:
Make and model?
If it's fuel injected suspect a leaking pressure regulator dumping raw fuel into the manifold.
Old style pressure regulators are operated by manifold vacuum. If the regulator diaphragm is leaking raw fuel is being pumped into the intake manifold.
Other causes could be a temperature sender is open circuited and telling the engine it's 50 degrees below 0.
Knowing the specific system is absolutely critical (type of fuel injection).

It's a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.4L. We bought it used with 100,000 miles on it and a shot engine, but the dealer got the factory to replace the engine on a recall. That was about 39,000 miles ago. It is fuel injected, but I have no idea what type.
 
When I got home, the shop owner called and said the upper catalytic converter had apparently emptied its bowels into the lower catalytic converter, plugging the exhaust. He said he'd probably have to replace both. He won't know until tomorrow morning what the cost of that will be, but I'm hoping it will be cheaper than a new car.
There are some boys up in the hills north of here that can have that catalytic converter off quicker than you can say "got crystal!"
 
The bad engine is probably a contributor to what caused the failed catalytic converter. In the process of dying the first engine dropped a lot of stuff into the exhaust system. Those engines with direct injection had a terrible reputation for self-destructing and using a lot of oil. See if the repair shop says anything about a check engine light if one was on. That light should come on when you turn on the ignition then go out shortly after that (self testing mode). Let us know what they tell you.
 
I don't know about cars, but on motorcycles, the 02 sensors can be removed and a "dongle" that produced the correct resistance, can be plugged in its place, thus fooling the computer into thinking everything is ok.

Or if it runs ok without the cats, just deal with the check engine light on the dash.

Rid yourself of the Hyundai. Don't go to Walmart for car repairs.
If you need funds for new-to-you Toyota, I will be glad to buy a few nice old Smiths in order to help raise funds. I'm such a nice guy.
 
I used to pull trailers for UPS. I saw more Hyundais and KIAs dead along side the road than everything else put together.

Everything I've ever heard or read, once those cars get over 5 years old, and are approaching 100K, get rid of them.

A boring old Camry or a Corolla are still pretty hard to beat.
I had my 2007 Hyundai Accent GL for 18.5 years with over 117600 miles on it. Bought it new. The gas tank developed a leak. After all that time the mechanic said it wouldn't be prudent to put more money into it. I definitely got my monies worth. A great little car, traded it in on a 2025 Hyundai Elantra SE, I hope that is half as good as my Accent.

Rick
 
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