Extended firing pin in L-frame
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I know the lighter mainspring can cause light strikes, but can the trigger return spring also have anything to do with it?
And who's extended firing pin does really well at fixing this? Power custom, or one from one from the competition shops like TK Custom?
And who's extended firing pin does really well at fixing this? Power custom, or one from one from the competition shops like TK Custom?
Post 3,
Others may have a different opinion but "no", the trigger return spring (aka rebound spring) won't be the cause of light strikes.
Here's a 2009 thread discussing extended firing pins, btw:
My thoughts on firing pin length and ignition
The author, Randy Lee, is likely the founder of Apex Tactical, which has a S&W extended firing pin product on its website:
Attention Required! | Cloudflare
Although, the website doesn't actually state the firing pin's length for some unknown reason or what the stock firing pins would be, so go to the referended thread.
I've used one of the Apex Tactical firing pins in either my 627Pro or 586 L-Comp (can't remember which at this point). I believe on one of those revolvers I even went UP in hammer spring weight from whatever the stock reduced weight was to whatever S&W's standard spring weight is.
I quickly got used to a slightly heavier trigger pull to get to 100% reliability with just about any off-the-shelf factory ammo.
I think (I don't always remember various details) I've only used an aftermarket Apex Tactical-brand extended firing pin, although I've seen others on the various online vendors' websites. I've no reason to suspect other brands wouldn't work equally well, but haven't personally had the need to try another extended firing pin as all my current S&W revolvers seem to be working fine.
Others may have a different opinion but "no", the trigger return spring (aka rebound spring) won't be the cause of light strikes.
Here's a 2009 thread discussing extended firing pins, btw:
My thoughts on firing pin length and ignition
The author, Randy Lee, is likely the founder of Apex Tactical, which has a S&W extended firing pin product on its website:
Attention Required! | Cloudflare
Although, the website doesn't actually state the firing pin's length for some unknown reason or what the stock firing pins would be, so go to the referended thread.
I've used one of the Apex Tactical firing pins in either my 627Pro or 586 L-Comp (can't remember which at this point). I believe on one of those revolvers I even went UP in hammer spring weight from whatever the stock reduced weight was to whatever S&W's standard spring weight is.
I quickly got used to a slightly heavier trigger pull to get to 100% reliability with just about any off-the-shelf factory ammo.
I think (I don't always remember various details) I've only used an aftermarket Apex Tactical-brand extended firing pin, although I've seen others on the various online vendors' websites. I've no reason to suspect other brands wouldn't work equally well, but haven't personally had the need to try another extended firing pin as all my current S&W revolvers seem to be working fine.
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Protocall_Design
Member
Most of the factory firing pins are too short to work well with a lighter action. If that is the problem, a longer firing pin will help. Other things it will help with are too much headspace, deep seated primers, thin rims on brass, etc. The extended firing pin is one of those things that can't hurt, might help.
The brand of primers in your ammo, either factory or reloaded, has a direct bearing on how light the action can work reliably. Federal primers are the easiest to dent (softest). Winchester is a little harder, but still easy. CCI and Remington are on the hard end of the scale. Most of the foreign brands are medium hard to hard. Because of this, you will have to have a heavy hammer strike to be reliable if you want it to work with all ammo. This in turn makes for a heavy trigger pull.
The rebound spring doesn't have anything to do with how hard the hammer strikes, but it does have to be balanced with the main spring setting. A heavy main spring setting requires a heavy rebound spring to reset the trigger forward. A lighter rebound spring contributes to a lighter trigger pull.
I prefer Power Custom parts, but Apex and TK Custom both have quality parts as well. The Power Custom firing pins are .505 long. That is my preferred length.
The brand of primers in your ammo, either factory or reloaded, has a direct bearing on how light the action can work reliably. Federal primers are the easiest to dent (softest). Winchester is a little harder, but still easy. CCI and Remington are on the hard end of the scale. Most of the foreign brands are medium hard to hard. Because of this, you will have to have a heavy hammer strike to be reliable if you want it to work with all ammo. This in turn makes for a heavy trigger pull.
The rebound spring doesn't have anything to do with how hard the hammer strikes, but it does have to be balanced with the main spring setting. A heavy main spring setting requires a heavy rebound spring to reset the trigger forward. A lighter rebound spring contributes to a lighter trigger pull.
I prefer Power Custom parts, but Apex and TK Custom both have quality parts as well. The Power Custom firing pins are .505 long. That is my preferred length.
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A longer firing pin (FP) might help, worth the try.
Factory short FPs are more common than desired.
Any FP shorter than .492" is suspect, though I have revolvers that have worked for years with shorter ones. Many variables come in to play.
Good S&W FPs are closer to .497-.498".
Apex are typically .500" & TK Custom are ~.510".
Extended FPs can cause sticky FP resets in some guns, ie: a .510" may stick in the fired primer but a .500" wouldn't.
As already stated the 13# rebound spring isn't the cause of the light strikes.
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S&W firing pin, fully forward
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APEX firing pin, fully foward
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APEX has gone back to the rounded nose (my preference) in recent years
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Rock185
US Veteran
I have a 686 that had the heavy factory hammer spring. I installed a lighter Wolff mainspring, but left the factory rebound spring. All was well until I installed a cylinder converted to 9mm. I tried all kinds of 9mm, but immediately started getting light primer strikes on factory IMI and Winchester 9mm NATO ammo. I decided to try a firing pin about .015" longer. There were no further misfires due to light strikes. I then tested with .357 and .38 Spcl. to make sure there were no issues with primers piercing, etc. There were no issues. The lighter hammer spring with longer firing pin has functioned 100% reliably...YMMV
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The "grooved" mainspring usually causes the problem. The strain screw hits the groove area and the screw isn't long enough to take up the depth of the groove. I always keep a factory mainspring, and use a 14 lb rebound spring. It will reduce the pull, but won't cause trigger rebound problems. The rebound spring will have nothing to do with the light hits.
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I've never had light strikes with a 13 pound rebound spring! 13 pounds is not really that light. I have used lighter ones also - no issues. If you are getting light hits with a 13 lb. spring I'd suspect something else is going on as well. Here are a few things I'd look at:
* Shortened Strain Screw - too short
* Light Main Spring
* Hammer not coming back far enough
* Crud, heavy grease or rust
I am also not familiar with Wilson Combat spring kits as I have used Wolff's in the past. Don't know just how accurately they are made.
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SGT ROCK 11B
Member
Put your 686 Plus back to factory condition. Mine has a great trigger right from the box. 5,000+ rounds down range without a problem.
You bought parts to fix a perfectly functioning gun......Then the new parts created a malfunction....You're gonna buy more parts to fix a problem you caused..........All I can say WOW.
Protocall_Design
Member
Come on, guys. If someone wants to make changes or improvements to their gun, it's their choice, not yours. Let's not bully someone just because they do something different than you would do.
I have never seen a new revolver of any brand that had a great trigger right from the box. I have several that have a great trigger because I did something to make it better. There's room for everyone here. I hope we can live and let live, and be more tolerant of others. Best Regards to all.
I have never seen a new revolver of any brand that had a great trigger right from the box. I have several that have a great trigger because I did something to make it better. There's room for everyone here. I hope we can live and let live, and be more tolerant of others. Best Regards to all.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
That is because you are too picky.
For those not shooting PPC you do not need a PPC trigger. Last time someone complained about a trigger on an old revolver was because it was not cleaned or properly lubricated in 30 years.
Protocall_Design
Member
Well then, I guess I'm too picky. I can live with that.
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Not bullying.......Still chuckling.......Polishing/stoning works for me. You can't parts change into perfection.........Fitting in required.
I have shot mine into smooth perfection........Lots of bangs........Lots of brass to reload.....Original parts.
Protocall_Design
Member
I applaud your diligence. Sadly, we don't all have that much time or ammunition.
pistolpete10
Member
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Some S&W main(hammer) springs are extra heavy, don't know why. I replace those with a Wolff standard spring. I've done it on leaf spring guns and one J frame. I think it's a quality issue. I don't know why the great variation in power, reason I can think of.
