Extended firing pin in L-frame

A really good trigger is not obtained by just changing springs. PROPER stoning of various parts within the action will give the smooth, lighter trigger pull. BUT this should only be done by someone qualified, or you could really screw up things. Shooting a few thousand rounds through the gun will polish up the action pretty good also.
 
I inspected three used guns that have been giving me trouble, a pair of 21-4's and a 64-4, all of which came to me used, but appearing to be in excellent condition with a low round count. I had already added an extra length firing pin and a standard factory mainspring. Then this weekend I backed the strain screws all the way out and inspected them.

Dang if Bubba's brotherinlaw had not worked on all three and flattened the faces with a file. I always turn the strain screw to its full lock down position, but all three of these were shortened and the face flattened. Replaced all three with fresh factory spec strain screws from Wolf this weekend and just got back from the range. All three guns are 100% now.

Hard to believe this disease of thinking that shortening the strain screw as a "trigger job" is as widespread as it apparently must be. From here on out I will inspect and replace as needed before I fire the first round.
 
Dang if Bubba's brotherinlaw had not worked on all three and flattened the faces with a file ...

Hard to believe this disease of thinking that shortening the strain screw as a "trigger job" ...

Bubba is going to do what a bubba is going to do.

With Used Revolvers you never what you are going to get.
 
I inspected three used guns that have been giving me trouble... all three and flattened the faces with a file.

With used guns only the original owner knows their true history.

However, the tip of strain screws tend to flatten & flare with use.

A screw that was "dressed up", to remove the flaring, could be interpreted to have been shortened on purpose.

.
 
I've found some S&W factory strain screws (bottom front, in grip frame) to vary in length. Short strain screws and light main springs often lead to inconsistent results. I'm not sure if S&W have a default length for a given model but the length can vary, even in new revolvers.

Over the years I've seen lots of third party main springs fail to ignite primers in S&W revolvers, on other guys revolvers. They change the main spring & then proceed to change other bits to accommodate the light main spring. Not my choice but hey, it's a free world, in some places. Good luck.
 
Back
Top