Extended revolver firing pins

[jtcarm]

I already have an Apex pin installed in my 66-7.

I tried installing the Wolf Type 1 spring kit (or whichever one is “duty” rated.)

I like the trigger pull, but it is not completely reliable with magnum primers. About 17% fail to ignite when shooting double action, even after double-seating the primers. This holds true with factory magnums as well.

Is there a firing pin that’s maybe a hairs-breadth longer than the Apex?

 

[robertrwalsh]

I know Powers Custom makes long firing pins for "hammer nose" firing systems. I don't know about frame mounted firing pins. I think maybe TDK does.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I like the Power Custom firing pins for both old and new systems. If the current firing pin is over .495, a longer one won't help any unless you have excessive headspace (not too common). You need more spring power. I would try a Wilson mainspring. Those give the best combination of hard hit and light trigger pull of all the aftermarket ones.

 

[walter o]

I like wolf springs for the most partbut the ribbed main spring usually needs a longer tension screw .other main springs are flat(no rib)and work with original tension screw. your tension screw is probably setting in the rib of the wolf spring.

 

[jtcarm]

Thanks.

I ordered a pin and extended strain screw from TK.

 

[steelslaver]

I have always used a stock mainspring and adjusted the tension screws length so that when tight it is 100% reliable. I used to get all into polishing and smoothing the spring.

Back off the factory screw until you get miss fires, turn it in 1/4 turn at a time until you have none. Turn it in until tight counting the number of 1/2 turns until tight tight. Measure screws length and then take away .016 per 1/2 turn. Leave 1/2 turn of length. You can always file off more, you can't add any. You can buy all the blue or stainless 8-32 screws with the correct head from an Ace Hardware that has the gun screw trays.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Best choice is to use the real S&W mainspring and the real S&W firing pin. Tighten the strain screw all the way down. If you still get misfires, send it back to S&W to check for out-of-spec headspace. Get rid of all aftermarket parts.

 

[SnidelyWhiplash]

I have always used a stock mainspring and adjusted the tension screws length so that when tight it is 100% reliable. I used to get all into polishing and smoothing the spring.

This is the way! That is the proper way to do it. When I attended Smith Armorers School we were taught that. No new parts necessary.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

Cheap Ammo wont fire all the time with the springs and firing pin combo. If you shoot Federal primers you won't have any problems. I have a 686 with a 3.5 pound double action trigger pull and it fires every round. Hope this helps.

 

[jtcarm]

FWIW, the TKC pin is shorter than the Apex that’s already in it.

I have a factory spring that I bent very slightly, but it’s not balanced, it has a catch about midway through.

 

[jtcarm]

Update: I installed a slightly slimmed-down MS and switched back to the original strain screw.

Pull weight averaged 10lbs.

Backed out the screw 1/2 turn and it dropped to an even 9 lbs (my Timney gauge isn’t digital and has 1/4 lb graduations)

I realized the roughness was from the weaker Wolf rebound spring. All is smooth following the adjustment.

Range test coming.