Factory ammo in old lemon squeezer?

[rev.ev]

Hello all! New poster here. I recently aquired an old 3rd model safety hammerless (serial #1026xx) in .38 s&w. Mechanically this revolver is in excellent working order. My question is a matter of opinion. Is it safe to fire factory loaded ammo (magtech .38s&w). I understand the age of such a firearm, and it won't be shot much. I just hate the idea of having a "safe queen." Also any idea of the manufacture date would be helpful.

 

[rev.ev]

no opinions out there? I read plenty on people shooting their 4th & 5th models. I guess what I'm asking is should I pull apart a whole box of factory ammo, so I can reload it with Pyrodex. Don't be scared to reply. I'm only asking for opinions. I release anyone from any liability! Am I posting in the wrong section?

 

[HKSmith]

I just fired 30 rounds of my reloads through a 2nd Model .38 Safety Hammerless 2 days ago (shipped 1888). My reloads are a bit weaker in recoil and muzzle blast than factory loads (which are already pretty anemic), but of course I have no way of measuring actual pressures. I have fired factory loads in both .32 and .38 Lemonsqueezers with no ill effects, but of course you're on your own when firing these old beauties.

This question has come up many times on this forum, with many people saying they shoot smokeless powder loads in breaktop S&W's without a problem. David Chicoine, who's a real expert on these guns, recommends black powder only. I think his concern is not blowing up guns, but stretching of the frame. Most people who shoot these guns don't shoot them all that much, so I don't know how much of an issue that is. As I said, I've never had a problem with several of these guns over the past 10 years. I also don't like buying guns that I can't shoot.

 

[therevjay]

I would stick with BP or Pyrodex. As was said it's not likely to blow up, but if you shoot it much it will loosen up.

If your going to pull the bullets and replace the smokeless, BP is easier to ignite then Pyrodex. (been there, done that)

 

[nutsforsmiths]

I have also shot factory loads of both calibers in top breaks and have had no problems. As stated, I haven't shot them a lot (I have a 38DA that shipped in 1882 and I think I have put 100 rounds through it in the 15 years I have owned it), so I'm sure that helps. They are fun to shoot every once in awhile.

 

[PERAZZI]

I ran 10 rounds thru my 2nd model without problems. but, the bullet impact was waaaay off. about 10 inches high... my Sigma and k-38 print on the money.... makes me wonder...

 

[rev.ev]

Thanks for the responses! I don't intend on shooting it much, but it's no fun if they can't go bang every once in a while!

 

[WILDCATT]

factory

factory loads are same as BP because of all the old guns.we were shooting smokeless in the guns before WW2,and some a lot cheaper than expensive S&W.a lot cost $2 new and by 1940 ivers were around $10 for solid frame and $15 for breaks.new

 

[pred]

Have shot mine from 1891 with no issues,
Granted, only about a box or two over the years, 38 S&W
Peter

 

[My Eye!]

I do shoot mine a lot by most folks standards, but I do it with my own reloads. My data basically comes from the Reloading Pages of M.D. Smith which you can google up. He lists loads specifically for top-breaks, and I have even substituted lighter bullets for some of these in the interest of keeping pressures down. (and POI)

I have shot factory shells, and currently have some, but they "feel" quite a bit hotter than my reloads.

I keep a very close watch on the condition and tightness of my guns and haven't detected any change ---yet. If I do, well then ??? jim

 

[Captain O]

If it is a break top, factory loads are in order (or a hand loaded equivalent 146-grain .361" bullet loaded to 640-650 fps from your barrel). If you shoot it often, watch for signs of the top latch becoming "sloppy" or loosening. If this takes place, relegate the revolver to the safe, or donate it to a local museum.

Enjoy!