45doubletap
Member
Does anyone polish the feed ramps on their M&P's? Just curious as I do with every auto I own. Not sure if it's necessary but certainly doesn't hurt.
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Feed ramp polishing?
- Thread starter 45doubletap
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Ruger_Up
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I certainly so as part of my regular cleaning regiment. I had a HiPoint 9 (no laughing) and the factory actually coats the feed ramps with the same finish as the pistol, causing major failures constantly. I sanded and polished the ramp on that one before trading it for my first S&W.
If It Ain't Broke...
You must examine the feed ramp to determine whether or not it needs to be polished. One primitive test you may try is to push the point of a straight pin up the ramp. Does it catch or feel scratchy, or, does it traverse the ramp like its made of polished crystal?
Once polished, it is only necessary to clean the ramp, along with the rest of the gun. As with other minor improvements, less is usually more. If you get carried away, you may remove too much material and adversely affect feeding.
You must examine the feed ramp to determine whether or not it needs to be polished. One primitive test you may try is to push the point of a straight pin up the ramp. Does it catch or feel scratchy, or, does it traverse the ramp like its made of polished crystal?
Once polished, it is only necessary to clean the ramp, along with the rest of the gun. As with other minor improvements, less is usually more. If you get carried away, you may remove too much material and adversely affect feeding.
I have polished the feed ramps on all my M&P's.
Rastoff
US Veteran
No, it's not necessary with the M&P. And it definitely can hurt if not done properly.
While not as critical as a 1911, the feed ramp is a critical part of the functioning of the gun. Change the angle even a little and the gun can start malfunctioning.
OP
45doubletap
Member
The "pin test" is exactly what I've always done. Definitely felt scratchy before but now is perfectly smooth.
And yes I'm polishing and not removing metal, changing angles, etc...
Polishing the feed ramp is one of the first things I do when I get a new gun. I put some Flitz's polish on a bore snake, with the slide locked back, I feed the bore snake first from the bottom of the grip up through the ejection port. I then feed the end of the bore snake through the barrel. The next step is to step on an end of the snake and run your gun up and down the snake ( kind of like you are flossing your gun). This doesn't remove any metal, it just puts a nice high shine on the feed ramp without changing the angle at all.
Rastoff
US Veteran
It should be noted that any polishing is removing metal. The difference is in amount. If it weren't removing metal, how would the surface be smoothed?
Polishing with Flitz or Mother's Polish is perfectly fine and probably won't hurt your gun. It's when people become impatient and try to use something more abrasive that it becomes a problem.
Also, the guns are designed to work as they come from the factory. Why do any of you feel the need to "repair" your guns prior to even firing them? Don't fix it if it ain't broke.
The "pin" test will certainly tell you if a pin will stick on the ramp. However, bullets are much more coarse than a pin. Just because a pin sticks doesn't mean a bullet will. The only test necessary is if the gun works or not. If it's working, let it be.
Polishing with Flitz or Mother's Polish is perfectly fine and probably won't hurt your gun. It's when people become impatient and try to use something more abrasive that it becomes a problem.
Also, the guns are designed to work as they come from the factory. Why do any of you feel the need to "repair" your guns prior to even firing them? Don't fix it if it ain't broke.
The "pin" test will certainly tell you if a pin will stick on the ramp. However, bullets are much more coarse than a pin. Just because a pin sticks doesn't mean a bullet will. The only test necessary is if the gun works or not. If it's working, let it be.
I wrote the following regarding my wife's police trade-in MP40c:
I read a bunch of web-based user reports on the M&P 40 Compact and a common complaint is feed stoppages with cheap steel-cased 40 ammo. We had one such malfunction with Tula 180 grain FMJ on the first outing, so when I cleaned the pistol I broke out the micrometers. The chambers are right at SAAMI specs; much tighter than Glocks and and with far better chamber support. I polished the barrel ramp, the chamber and the ramp-to-chamber breakover point. That is ‘ze magic’ for 1911 barrels and it sure cured this one. I have a Heinz 57 bag of .40 odds and ends I accumulated over the past ten years, including steel-case ammo, aluminm case ammo, various JHP and even some 650 fps SWC garden pest loads. The little MP digested six magazines of it, with the light loads barely working the action and an audible delay between the ‘pop’ and ‘ding’, 15 yards distant.
I read a bunch of web-based user reports on the M&P 40 Compact and a common complaint is feed stoppages with cheap steel-cased 40 ammo. We had one such malfunction with Tula 180 grain FMJ on the first outing, so when I cleaned the pistol I broke out the micrometers. The chambers are right at SAAMI specs; much tighter than Glocks and and with far better chamber support. I polished the barrel ramp, the chamber and the ramp-to-chamber breakover point. That is ‘ze magic’ for 1911 barrels and it sure cured this one. I have a Heinz 57 bag of .40 odds and ends I accumulated over the past ten years, including steel-case ammo, aluminm case ammo, various JHP and even some 650 fps SWC garden pest loads. The little MP digested six magazines of it, with the light loads barely working the action and an audible delay between the ‘pop’ and ‘ding’, 15 yards distant.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
The first thing I do on any brand of pistol is to take the Simi chrome polish and polish the feed ramps. I remove the blued, park or nickel finish that can be on the ramp. I do this during the very first GI disassembly and cleaning. This way I remove any feeding problems it could have from the feed ramp. Even the stainless ramps get polished too.
My Chinese norinco 1911a1 had a blued feed ramp. When I removed the finish the unseen machine marks were exposed. Now the ramp is mirror shiney. The norinco was my first build she's a race gun now. We never know what's under the finish on a ramp.
My Chinese norinco 1911a1 had a blued feed ramp. When I removed the finish the unseen machine marks were exposed. Now the ramp is mirror shiney. The norinco was my first build she's a race gun now. We never know what's under the finish on a ramp.
one eye joe
US Veteran
MANY A SEMI-AUTO--ESPECIALLY 1911s--HAVE BEEN RUINED BY BUBBA AT THE KITCHEN TABLE, WITH A HANDFUL OF ABRASIVES, OR A DREMEL TOOL. IF YOU HAVE NO CLUE, LEAVE THE GUN ALONE. THE RAMP WILL SMOOTH WITH WEAR. IF THE GUN IS CURRENTLY MALFUNCTIONING, SEND IT IN FOR WARRANTY WORK……..
mark32812
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I use Lemon Pledge. It doesn't do anything for the feed ramp but it does give the M&P a nice fresh smell.
motorcyclejoe
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- Nov 15, 2013
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S&W Pistol Action Package
S&W gunsmithing services offers a Pistol Action Package for $120. The first item on the package list is polishing the feed ramp. I guess they see some value in polishing?
S&W gunsmithing services offers a Pistol Action Package for $120. The first item on the package list is polishing the feed ramp. I guess they see some value in polishing?
Smokin9mm
Member
What he said
