File down a sharp cylinder latch

[Oldandtreacherous]

On the Model 637 (our 642 is the same) the release latch just chews up my thumb unless I alter my grip which I am determined not to do as it's automatic on all my revolvers. What tools do I need to properly go about filing the bottom edge of the latch? Is this something that a gunsmith should undertake for me (I'm cheap but don't want to butcher a pretty gun)?

 

[Warren Sear]

Note carefully the exact locations of the sharp edges and mark with a Sharpie pen. Remove the thumb-piece by removing the screw that holds it on. Wrap some 220 grit abrasive paper around a dowel (1/2" diameter or so). Rub that along the sharp edges of the latch, and they will be smoothed out in no time.

Re-assemble.

Shoot.

 

[David Sinko]

I use a Dremel on the cylinder latch of every centerfire S&W revolver that I own. My hard kicking N Frames generally get the most aggressive treatment. I Dremel the bottom rear of the latch to make it perfectly flat and even with the front end. Then I grind away the rear end and give it a teardrop configuration. I smooth out the top too because sharp edges have no place on this part of a revolver.

After the Dremel work I use silicon carbide paper to get the bottom edge perfectly flat. Lay the paper on a hard, flat surface and go back and forth with the latch until the bottom is perfectly flat. This will seemingly take forever but the results are worth it. You can then abrasive blast the latch with aluminum oxide to cover any minor imperfections or make it look darker.

The only revolver that still beats me up after this treatment is my .44 Magnum snub with 2 5/8" barrel. I don't shoot many magnums through it so I can live with it. My J Frames do NOT get the aggressive cylinder latch bevel. I just smooth out all the sharp edges with the Dremel. I DO use a different grip on my J Frames though, deliberately grabbing the boot grip a bit lower. This keeps my thumb away from the cylinder latch and there is not enough barrel length or weight to torque the gun enough to hurt me.

Dave Sinko

 

[murphydog]

An alternative is to keep your current latch as is (if it is the usual symmetric type), and find a later version that is already relieved at the bottom. As Warren noted above, these are so easy to remove/replace than even I can do it .

 

[57jeeper]

I have the new style on my ,45 and want to change to the old style. I saw this in the Dillion catalog and may give it a shot.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/co...olver_Thumb_Latch_S_amp_W_Thumb_Latch__Silver

 

[larry8]

Post a pic of the latch. We would like to see just what you did to it.

 

[nachogrande]

USING A FILE?

you can always remove steel but you can't put it back. unless you are real good I'd steer clear of files and dremels. nowadays I mostly use a grit type paste to start and go up from there as needed to paper, stones etc. I do like a dremel as they are fast, but it is extremely easy to Bubba something up with one, much harder with paste and a toothbrush.