Finally found one of my unicorn guns- need advice

GT_80

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So I have been looking for a K Frame snubbie for quite some time. When I see them I'm always too late, at too short in cash. I finally saw a used one locally, and lockup was super tight, price was about $100 more than I wanted to spend, but I have been saving for a month so I decided to take the plunge. Does not look like it was Carried much or ever, looks lightly shot, but it must have been stored somewhere near moisture, has some tarnishing or light corrosion on the frame and side cover and the cylinder.

What do you all use to clean tarnish or corrosion off on a blued gun? Buddy said 0000 steel wool and just regular gun oil. I tried using just a rem oil wipe, and that was not abrasive enough, just worried about scratching the finish.

Anyway, here is some pictorial fodder :) very happy with it!

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The serial number is D62xxxx

And I may sell the T grip- it punches my fat fingers. Haven't decided yet though.
 
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You can use 0000 steel wool but go easy. You will not get any pitting out so don't even try. Surface rust should come off with oil and lightly rubbed with 0000 steel wool. Other than that just load it up and shoot it.
 
I wouldn't touch a blue, or nickel, or stainless revolver with steel wool.

With wonderful success I've used oil and a bronze wool pad to remove rust. Might give Flitz polish a go, too. Use a finger and go easy.

Then wax, and you're ready for the range.

Congrats on your unicorn.
 
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I disagree about using steel wool. The issue with it is that it easily sheds minuscule "hairs" of steel wool that if not completely removed, can and will cause issues down the road by forming more rust speckles. It's also easier to rub through the bluing with steel wool.

I've dealt with many older S&W's that I bought with the same speckles.

1) Use fine bronze wool, it won't cause rusting if it sheds, it's softer than steel wool and you can rub pretty hard without affecting the bluing.

2) remove the grips and then liberally apply/spray a rust penetrating oil, and then let it marinade over night (minimum).

3) after the rust is softened up, use the bronze wool and/or the edge of a real copper penny (minted before 1982) as a scraper to gently "manipulate" (rub/scrape) away rust.

4) Be patient, walk away when you start to feel frustrated if the rust isn't coming off as fast or easy as you want it to. Spray more penetrating oil on it and let it marinate some more.
 
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I wouldn't touch a blue, or nickel, or stainless revolver with steel wool.
+ + +

That is my standard advice. Never, never, never.

As others have noted, use copper wool and certainly nothing harder than bronze wool. Kroil or a mixture of ATF & acetone work well to soften up the rust.
 
Thanks everyone! I have a good idea where to start now. At any rate, the larger square grips, the short barrel, are al the things I wanted, even though all the rust may not come off, I'll still love and shoot it. My J frame has a spot on the side cover too that won't come off, doesn't make it any less of a cool gun to me. I got $65 off this one because of the rust. Paid $735. Not a lot of these around me at all. They're all 4" or 6" barrels.
 
Well, if you sell that Tyler T you'll have plenty of customers, me included.

That said, and after I sold so many of your so-called unicorns:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/660075-model-64-4-2-prices.html#post141260467

You might seriously consider after market stocks for that square butt. If rubber doesn't work for you, and that goes for lots of folks, and I'm 50-50 depending on the gun, a nice set of Ahrends or Ajax stocks, etc., with finger grooves might be more comfortable than that original S&W wood square butt.
 
I've been using steel wool on my blued guns for years. Never any problems.


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Bronze wool is the safe bet. I've used 0000 steel wool with oil in a pinch, but it will remove bluing if overdone unlike the bronze wool. I was cleaning up a new purchase last night and used a bronze bore brush in some tight corners. It cut the loosed surface rust off and didn't harm any of the original finish.
 
I've had good luck with a product called RB17
It's a good product line, and a google search shows it's still available...I know the inventor and original marketer, but I haven't seen him in many years...His background is that of a chemist...I used to carry his products in my store...I'd like to know if he's still well and kicking...:confused:...Ben
 
Hearty congratulations to the OP on finding a much sought after item. It always feels so good and it's great fun to go back time after time and look it over, handle it and give thanks for the chance to be the caretaker!

I concur that bronze wool is great; but many have gently used a bit of 0000 steel wool and light oil - ATF, MMO or similar. And as another writer said, good to let oil marinate overnight or longer.

All that said, once you have it cleaned up to your satisfaction, it would be time to find some grips! If you're so inclined, you own or will find an older pair of affordable stags - or even order out a pair from KD or PG. Both are excellent.

Best of luck, happy ownership and may it put them all in the bull's-eye!
 
Well, all the standard advice has been given. So, I'll give some different. Blue Wonder Gun Bore cleaner will remove rust without damaging the bluing. They have product demo videos on YouTube. Also, while you are on YT, check out Mark Novak's Anvil videos on boiling the rusted parts and carding the red oxide away to reveal the blue underneath. He gets some exceptional results. YMMV.
 
Well, all the standard advice has been given. So, I'll give some different. Blue Wonder Gun Bore cleaner will remove rust without damaging the bluing. They have product demo videos on YouTube. Also, while you are on YT, check out Mark Novak's Anvil videos on boiling the rusted parts and carding the red oxide away to reveal the blue underneath. He gets some exceptional results. YMMV.

Great advice about Mark's restoration videos, I had forgotten about that. His boiling of rusted parts is basically the principle behind the old school rust bluing process.

You intentionally force a surface rusting to occur, and then boil the parts/gun so the red oxide rust to convert it to harmless black oxide.
 

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