Even your before pic looks better than a "now" pic of my gun, LOL. Seeing the "After" pic I am even more tempted,I thought about it a while, then remembered I bought it for me. My daughter can worry about the damage I may have done when I'm dead and bloted.
Hi giants1,all I do with my stainless steel revolvers that have there original finish let's say less than nice,is take out the mother's mag and hub get an old tee shirt (white preferably) take the the cylinder and yolk off and wipe a little bit on and rub it off until it's to the shine I want. Then oil and wax it to keep it shiny and to repel finger prints.I'm a newbie to revolvers and newer to owning S&W. Those are all drop-dead gorgeous revolvers!
What do you do to keep the finish shiny and rust-free?
Any other tips for maintenance?
And what's the recoil and muzzle climb like on the 65 3" vs 4" .357s shooting .357 Magnum cartridges?
Thanks.Hi giants1,all I do with my stainless steel revolvers that have there original finish let's say less than nice,is take out the mother's mag and hub get an old tee shirt (white preferably) take the the cylinder and yolk off and wipe a little bit on and rub it off until it's to the shine I want. Then oil and wax it to keep it shiny and to repel finger prints.
Sent from my SM-N986W using Tapatalk
I'm in Canada so I found a conservator wax from Lee Valley, but in the US. I've read ren wax works great to. And for oil any good oil from your gun store will work.Thanks.
What brands of oil and of wax would you recommend?
It's important to remember that even stainless steel will corrode, and may form ugly black and pitted spots, especially under the stocks. I've had a couple guns that had been carried and came to me in that condition. Also, the best care of a carry gun, vs. a shooter used in periodic trips to the range, vs a collectible that should be kept in original condition may vary a lot. (Most of my revolvers are in the second category)What do you do to keep the finish shiny and rust-free?
Any other tips for maintenance?
It's controllable, and there is not a huge difference between 3" and 4", the overall weight (N v. K v. J-frame) makes more difference, as does where you grip the gun. If you plan to shoot .357 regularly (even at todays prices), a K-frame is probably not the way to go. A steady diet of .357 led to the development of the slightly larger and stronger L-frame, most popular example being the post-1980 Model 686.And what's the recoil and muzzle climb like on the 65 3" vs 4" .357s shooting .357 Magnum cartridges?
I wonder what happens with that logo if you send one of those in to have the finish redone??...I wish all 65s had the shrouded ejector rod - I should have picked up one of those and had the Lady Smith logo removed like other have done.
I'm in Canada so I found a conservator wax from Lee Valley, but in the US. I've read ren wax works great to. And for oil any good oil from your gun store will work.
Sent from my SM-N986W using Tapatalk
Search the fourm I believe there was a thread about that. If memory serves yes some used furniture wax.I don't see those brands in my area. Would ordinary car wax, eg Turtle Wax, be an okay substitute, or would that scratch the stainless steel?
you can find some on Amazon, search for "Renaissance Wax Polish" You only need a little bit.I don't see those brands in my area. Would ordinary car wax, eg Turtle Wax, be an okay substitute, or would that scratch the stainless steel?
I've posted my gun on other 65 threads but over 10 years ago I took my used three inch 65 to S&W and had the combat revolver package done. At the time it was $250. It is still offered at $265. Just the glass bead finish separately is $170 but then for the extra $95 you get trigger job, trigger stop and chamfered cylinder holes. So I would say a bargain. If you like glass bead finish I would highly recommend. Excellent trigger job. I asked them to replace bungered up side plate screws which they did no charge. I had my gunsmith polish sides of hammer and trigger. Couple of years later I had my gunsmith duplicate the work on my 4 inch former duty gun. I later added red ramp front sight to both (S&W no longer does red ramp on fixed sight anymore I was told). Their website is a little difficult to negotiate you have to search for "S&W performance center gunsmithing services" and click on revolvers for the price list.
Great photos from the other posters!! I wish all 65s had the shrouded ejector rod - I should have picked up one of those and had the Lady Smith logo removed like other have done.