Finally got me a snubby - 642

Another vote for having a smith polish the innards and leaving the rest alone. Makes a nice difference.

The Centennials are great little carry guns. You'll like yours, but I think you'll find it much more comfortable to shoot and easier to control with the longer grips if you shoot +P ammo.
 
I don't plan to shoot any +P ammo in this 642. I will mostly shoot wadcutter ammo for CCW and plinking.

I will polish a few things up that Apex recommended in their installation video before I order springs and such. I do a lot of work on my guns and others guns so this shouldn't be too hard to tackle.
 
I don't plan to shoot any +P ammo in this 642. I will mostly shoot wadcutter ammo for CCW and plinking.

While there is nothing wrong, in my opinion, in using the wadcutter bullets in your Model 642 for antipersonnel purposes, I'd advise against it for 2 reasons. 1) Bullet weight. The Model 642 I believe is regulated for use with 158 gr. bullets. The classic .38 Special wadcutter is 148 gr. Thus, you may very well have a difference in point-of-impact/point-of-aim. At very close, self defense ranges, it may not be a problem, but I prefer to limit my variables as much as possible. 2) Bullet design. It's no trick to individually load each bullet in the cylinder when there is no pressure involved, and quite another to try to do this under stress. Yes, I realize the chances you will a) use your revolver in a self defense situation is rare, and b) the chances you will need to reload your piece in a combat situation, but why take the chance? My favorite all-around bullet for .38 Special/.357 Magnum revolvers is the 158 gr. semiwadcutter bullet. It feeds easily, and is a great target/plinking/small game round. I've shot boatloads of the 148 gr. wadcutters in competition, and even more boatloads of the 158 gr. semiwadcutters.

For self defense purposes, especially in an Airweight J-frame, I prefer either standard velocity 158 gr. semiwadcutters (factory loads), or the standard velocity rounds especially made for revolvers with short barrels.

Regards,

Dave
 
Thanks for the info.

Regarding the firing pin. Is there an downside to having a staked in firing pin as opposed to having a non-staked firing pin? Is one better than the other?
 
Laser grips

I have one also and have carried it for years. Look in to buying a set of Crimson Trace laser grips for your 642. You will not be sorry.
 
Thanks for the info.

Regarding the firing pin. Is there an downside to having a staked in firing pin as opposed to having a non-staked firing pin? Is one better than the other?
The only potential downside is added work removing the staking pin should you ever have to replace the firing pin. This is unlikely and nothing to think much about.
 
.38spec snubnose

Find with my .38 spec aluminum s&w airweight,the 158 gr semi-wadcutters shoot to point of aim best. Have pachmyr rubber grips,and reload all my ammo. Nice control and shooting with rubber grips. have a ruger sp101 with factory grips,and is a pleasure to shoot.
 
Just a few days ago a friend/co-worker came to my office asking me and the guy I share a space with, our opinions on J-frame Smiths. That conversation quickly became show and tell. My office partner breaking out a 642 and me a 342. Each of us proclaiming undying love for the J-frames.

Before the work week was out, he mentioned again being interested in a J-frame, particularly a 642. I warned him, this is how it begins...


A few hours ago he sends me this photo. Seems one followed him home just today. Looks like my buddy drank the kool-aid.
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I finally got my PGS Hideout combat grips for my 642. I really like them. The finger grooves are perfect for my hand and the little pinky groove is a nice feature. They are cheap and work great. Now I need a good holster. I'd also like to change the cylinder latch lever to the new style.
 

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I finally got my PGS Hideout combat grips for my 642. I really like them. The finger grooves are perfect for my hand and the little pinky groove is a nice feature. They are cheap and work great. Now I need a good holster. I'd also like to change the cylinder latch lever to the new style.

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Is it me, or is the frame on your 642 polished - instead of anodized?

Very nice little pre-lock, regardless!
 
It is very shiny but from what I have been told that is the normal state of the no dash 642. I would like to have it gently bead blasted to tone down the shine but I doubt I will ever do that.

If anyone is looking for an old style j-frame thumbpiece and wants to trade me for a new style j-frame thumbpiece, let me know.
 
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If anyone is looking for an old style j-frame thumbpiece and wants to trade me for a new style j-frame thumbpiece, let me know.

The new style cylinder release thumbpiece (& screw), can be ordered fairly inexpensively from Brownells.

Strongly recommend that you keep the original in a safe place, or at least, send it TO ME - for safe keeping...
 
Its been a while since I've been on here. To make a long story short, I sold the 642 no dash back to the original owner due to his constant begging for it back. Seems he had seller's remorse. He paid me generously for it, enough to buy a new 642 plus accessories. I bought a 642-1 since I'm not fond of the lock. Unfortunately I had to send it back to S&W as there is a nasty burr around the inner diameter of the forcing cone on the barrel. Needless to say I'm not happy. Its been at S&W for 2 weeks now and they are telling me that I should check back in another 2 weeks for an update. I was hoping this would be a simple fix and be back to me quickly. I guess the quality of newer J-frames does not compare to the quality of the no dash I had.

ETA - I do like the new cylinder release thumb-piece more than the old one.
 
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