Finally...there is a press in my house. now i'm lost.

[speedyquad]

I knew dad used to have a press. I was sure he had sold it though. Mom said it was in the house somewhere. I couldn't bring myself to buy a press when there might be a free one available.

Finally, today, I found a basically brand new RCBS Rock Chucker. The plastic bag that holds the primer arm and all of the other small parts had never been opened. Even though it was probably bought in the late 70's, it is basically brand new.

I've found some other reloading items, but not sure what all I really need to start reloading. Please advise of what exactly I need. I know dies in the calibers that I want to load, and the respective bullet holders.

I found a beam powder and bullet scale, but i think I want to go digital. Any recommendations?

What are the best reloading books to buy? I want this to be my first purchase.

Are there any calibers that I can't reload with this? Right now, I only plan on doing 40S&W, .223, and possibly 9mm.

How thick should my bench top be? I already have a bench for it, I'm just not sure the top is think enough.

 

[Snowshooter]

Good find! That press will do basically all you need unless you want progressive volume.

Hornady#9, Lyman#49 manuals are well respected for loading instruction. Can be found at most decent reloading shops.

Data available from many sources.

1.5" minimum thick top. Bolt bench to wall and floor if possible.

Good luck and stay vigilant and careful.

 

[arjay]

I'd add a hand held priming tool and a powder measure to the list.

 

[speedyquad]

thanks in advance!

 

[smokindog]

A lot of good info here

http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/406473-so-youre-thinking-about-getting-into-reloading-2.html

Ultimate Reloader Reloading Blog

I knew dad used to have a press. I was sure he had sold it though. Mom said it was in the house somewhere. I couldn't bring myself to buy a press when there might be a free one available.

Finally, today, I found a basically brand new RCBS Rock Chucker. The plastic bag that holds the primer arm and all of the other small parts had never been opened. Even though it was probably bought in the late 70's, it is basically brand new.

I've found some other reloading items, but not sure what all I really need to start reloading. Please advise of what exactly I need. I know dies in the calibers that I want to load, and the respective bullet holders.

I found a beam powder and bullet scale, but i think I want to go digital. Any recommendations?

What are the best reloading books to buy? I want this to be my first purchase.

Are there any calibers that I can't reload with this? Right now, I only plan on doing 40S&W, .223, and possibly 9mm.

How thick should my bench top be? I already have a bench for it, I'm just not sure the top is think enough.

 

[venomballistics]

the beam scale will not fail like a digital can. Stick with it.
Lyman and Speer manuals are the standards in this forum.
get one or both, read it, reread it and report back if you remain unclear about any point in the procedures.
Its pretty simple really, but sometimes ya just need to be told the same thing with different wording before you get it.

Thereafter there is a wealth of load data online from any and all of the powder manufacturers to supplement the data found in your manual.

since your pistol calibers are autos ... use this forums search function to find the illustration of "The plunk test"
Also be aware that seating and crimping operations are accomplished with the same specific die, and in some cases these things fight.
The result can be jamtastic ammo.
by understanding the adjustment of this die, you can separate these functions if needed and do them in individual steps to cure this issue.

what you cannot load with your press ...
Shotshells, 50 BMG, main battle tank rounds and artillery shells.
shotshells require a different press while the rest simply will not fit in your press.

 

[federali]

RCBS Rockchucker

The RCBS Rockchucker is one fine press and should last you several lifetimes. I did all my loading on one until I bought a Dillon. I use the Rockchucker for rifle ammo and with my universal decapper.

The only downside to watch for is the pin which holds the ram to the lever tends to work out on its own. It's just a matter of pushing it back in place.

Many experienced reloaders prefer the older manuals from the early 60s before everybody became lawsuit happy and company lawyers started writing the reloading manuals. But, many good powders in current use were not available way back when. There's also plenty of good reloading info online.

 

[Pisgah]

With the right dies that Rock Chucker will load anything you are likely to want to load. Nothing wrong with a digital sale,even a cheap one, and they come in mighty handy -- but keep the balance beam to check your loads. I use a digital for speed, but double-check every 5-10 rounds with a balance beam. You want a THICK top on that bench -- bolt a couple thicknesses of 3/4" plywood on top. And lacking a very heavy bench, bolting it to the wall or floor is well worth it. Leave the primer parts in the bag. A good hand primer is faster and more accurate. As a starter manual the Lyman cannot be beat, IMO. But get several more. They are all good, and you will learn something from each one, as well as have sources where you can compare loads and sometimes catch potentially dangerous typos in one. Case trimming tools will be needed. No need to start out too fancy -- Lee and others make good hand tools for the job. Case tumblers are great for cleaning cases -- but you can de-prime cases, put them in a mesh bag such as those meant for washing ladies' "unmentionables", toss 'em in the washer,and they will come out nice and clean, just not brand-new shiny. (And don't let your wife catch you!)

 

[silentflyer]

Good find, do some reading in the reloading manuals and see if you can find someone who is already loading to teach you the basics and look over your shoulder for a bit. At first stick to powders that nearly fill the case, a double charge of Bullseye will ruin you gun, your day and possibly more. A NICE BRIGHT FLASHLIGHT TO CHECK THE POWDER LEVELS IN EVERY CASE BEFORE YOU SEAT THE BULLET! Go slow and have fun!

 

[M29since14]

You're going to need a sturdy bench. That one may not qualify and if it does it may do so only temporarily. Don't be cheap about buying manuals . You need to actually read them, not just look at the data. All are good but you should have at least three. I like Sierra, Lyman and Hornady. Those three cover a lot of territory and offer a huge amount of good general information and advice. Good luck with the new/old Rockchucker. I still use mine, from about the same era as your Dad's.

 

[speedyquad]

I appreciate all of the input. I like the idea of a nice bright flashlight. I'm not one that shy's away from adding light.

I think the bench will be good, I'll just need to thicken the top. It was an old counter from the "lab" at work. The lab tech had hip surgery so the made his room a little less cluttered. They repurposed the countertop and this was going into the garbage. I saw a work bench in it so I snagged it. put the new top on it and the pegboard back, as well as the light and power outlets. I think I have $50 in materials in it...lol.

I also found a rifle vise that I did not know that he had. I'm hoping to find his bore sight next.

 

[MyDads38]

A like new RockChucker from the 70's? Good score! My Reloader Special is dated 1978 and I still use it.

I keep current copies of all the loading manuals on my bench-Hornady, Lee, Lyman and Speer; you can never have enough manuals or data.

I've owned 2 beam scales in 35 years-an RCBS 5-0-5 that I foolishly sold and my Pacific Deluxe that I replaced it with. I've never even thought about a digital scale, but I would keep the beam scale and add a digital if that's what you're after.

By all means, if you know someone who is an experienced reloader, ask if they will help you get set-up and started. I've done that with a few guys in the past and it really helps them; and I know they have an understanding of what they are doing. We also buy powder, bullets and primers in bulk when we find a good deal; that way we all are able to keep shooting!

A sturdy bench is a must. Something you might look into is the Lee Bench Plate kit. Maybe not so much for changing out your press, but for the added strength the steel plate will offer to the top of you bench.

Best of luck and congrats on your new press. Don't hesitate to ask questions-better safe, than sorry

 

[speedyquad]

the scale is a Redding Master powder and bullet scale. Is that a quality scale?

 

[SteedGun]

the scale is a Redding Master powder and bullet scale. Is that a quality scale?

Yes, anything Redding is very high quality. Test it with a few bullets to see if it is still calibrated right.

I have been reloading on a Rock Chucker for 30+ years. You can load it all with the Rock Chucker it is just slower than a progressive like Dillon. Five years ago I bought a Dillon 550B and it is fantastic but you are not there yet. Having been handed a RC setup you are in good shape to start.

I prefer either Dillon or Redding dies. Yes, I own dies from all manufacturers I just think the Dillon or Redding dies are the best. I reload 22 calibers.

I still have my old beam scale but I prefer the RCBS Chargemaster electronic scales. I have both the stand alone scale and the combo powder dispenser. They are all fantastic.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-98923-Combo-110V-AC-Chargemaster/dp/B00139UC6O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1435981084&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+master"]Amazon.com : RCBS Combo 110V-AC Chargemaster : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/419k%2Bq3eWYL.@@AMEPARAM@@419k%2Bq3eWYL[/ame]

I think the Hornady 9th edition is an excellent reloading book but I will not say anything bad about Lyman or Speer. I own them all. You cannot have too many reloading books.

Keep asking questions. Let's get you down the road.

Welcome to the addiction.

 

[rwsmith]

Good manuals.....

A few good manuals are the Speer and Lyman manuals. The Lyman and the Lyman cast handbook have info on hard cast bullets. You can get a fair amount of data off the web nowadays but these books have great 'how-to' sections. Note that different types of cartridges have some differences. Semi rim auto, rimmed revolver, bottle neck rifle all have ideosynchrasies. There is also a lot of safety info concerning these and safety is PARAMOUNT.

The skinny on digital scales is that unless you spend $$ for one, they get to where they drift, won't hold zero and all kinds of maladies. Nearly all of the cheaper digital scales don't hold up well.

I've been using a cheapo Lee scale and it works great except that I have to tap it to make sure that it isn't hung up.

 

[SW CQB 45]

control any air vents that would point to your scale location or your readings will bounce all over when setting your powder measure.

Lucky Dawg, I got kicked out of the house (into my portable building) many years ago.

 

[venomballistics]

I've been using a cheapo Lee scale and it works great except that I have to tap it to make sure that it isn't hung up.

Make sure that the blade is at the bottom of the V and reasonably centered on the post to avoid frictional influence on the sides.

 

[Twoboxer]

Digital calipers work fine, and can save you from misreading a dial scale. ~$30 is a good budget for this item. Inexpensive digital calipers are plenty accurate enough, and their only flaw is comparatively short battery life vs expensive models.

This is *not* true of digital scales. Until you spend ~$125 (GemPro 250) you can't buy a digital that at some point or another won't drive you nuts by not weighing the same item the same weight twice in a row, fluttering around a reading, losing zero, etc. Even the GemPro has issues - eg it does not respond well to trickling small amounts of powder, eg, when trying to get up to an exact load.

These scales use a strain gauge load sensor which has severe limitations. Its not until you spend $600 or more that you can get a magnetic force restoration load cell and have a truly satisfactory digital scale.

Stay with your high-quality beam scale until you've learned about reloading, done some scale research, and are better positioned to make a decision.

But in any case, hold on to that beam scale. They don't make them like that any more. I promise you it will come in handy.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

You might think about putting two layers of 3/4" plywood below the work top. Buy a 2' square piece, cut it in half smear glue between and above and use a few drywall screws to hold in place until the glue dries. Bolt the press in place with the largest diameter bolts the press will allow. Use heavy washers and locking nuts or at least lock washers. This is pretty much over kill for the few calibers you listed, but will allow you good support no matter what you get into in the future!.

Scales: every person has a preference, most based on experience. Buy the good stuff! That 5-0-5 is probably as good as you want to spend for. (there are digital scales that get down to .001 accuracy now, but that is beyond the use of reloading!)

powder measure: Again with everybody's opinion. The different type (ball, flake, extruded) powders work best in different measures. I use a Redding BR-30 and still weigh charges on my rounds for 1000 yard shooting. I think the best measure for small charges of flake powder (unique, bullseye, 2400, ect) is the Lyman #55, spend the few extra dollars and get the black powder version and you would be set for every powder, ever! RCBS uniflow and the Hornady like it are also good.

Dies: Most companies have very good Customer Service (except Lyman, no longer backs anything over one year and sometimes they do back it at all!) Lee dies are the most affordable as a rule and will work and last fine, but they are short! This can be a problem way down the road. RCBS, Redding, Hornady, C-H 4D, Dillion (limited to common calibers) all make very good standard and carbide dies. For precise long range dies, I use Redding Competition. RCBS and Bonanza/Forester make a similar die (The neck sizing collets that Redding uses are an industry standard, the others use proprietary sizes and are not interchangeable nor available aftermarket.) The point is, it comes in handy sticking with one brand of dies, or keeping repair part on hand for multiple brands. (Decapping pins are not a warranty item, so buy a pack of spares!)

SAFETY: you can not have too much information, and compare it. When several reliable sources say one thing and there is one lone wolf saying something, REMEMBER This; a cartridge is a small bomb and it explodes inches from your hand or face every time you pull the trigger! Never skimp on safety!

Have Fun, enjoy the process, and the more detail you pay attention to, the better the results. Ivan

 

[federali]

Two Things

The bench top should be at least 1.5" thick and the span between vertical supports, or legs, should be short. A press can generate an amazing amount of leverage and you don't want your bench flexing as you reload.

Lee Dies: These are quality made and work well but as others have said, the pistol dies are too short in any press designed to handle rifle ammo. In the event you ever move your handgun loading to a progressive press, the Lee dies may present problems.