If the gap between your grips is as big as you say, you have a rather sizeable gap. To put your estimated measurements into perspectibve, a 1/16" gap would be about the width of the cardboard on the back of a writing pad and a 1/8" would be about the size of a pencil lead. Before you start working on the grips, check the grip pin in the bottom of the frame for being centered. Dodes it project the same amount on either side of the grip frame? If not tap it until it does. Next check the holes in the grip panels that this pin engages, do they appear to be of sufficient depth? Is there a bit of finish in the bottom? Put one grip at a time on the frame and check that the inside of the frame is contacting the inside of the grip panel. If all is well thus far, another spot to check is the curved portion of the grip which fills the space between the triger guard and the frame. Sometimes the factory machining leaves a little too much wood in this area or there is a build up of finish in this area. Once you've identified an area of wood that needs adjusting, you need to get yourself a sanding block to back up your sandpaper. I use Art Gum erasers that I purchase two in a pack at WallyWorld, they're just the right size for the job. cut your sandpaper in strips as wide as the eraser, then in length enough to wrap around the eraser long ways. Hold the eraser with the sandpaper wrapped around it between your thumb and fingers and sand whatever high spots you've identified. When you think you've located the trouble spot, gently sand the finish off. Get some of the wife's/gf's lipstick and apply to the guns grip frame and install the grips tightening the grip screw with the normal amount of pressure. Overtighterning can warp the grip and give false readings. Remove the rips and by trial and error sand away the red high spots until the grips fit the way you'd like them to. When they're well fitted you should see a unifrom red impression of the grip frame's contact. Hope this helps.