Does the frame mounted firing pin normally protrude slightly through the firing pin bushing. I have a model 22-4 and the ammo drags and binds with both moon clips and auto rim. It leaves a ring from the firing pin in the ammo that passes. These are reloads but they work fine in my 25-2. I used a lee factory crimp die and oal length of 1.250. Both fmj and lead swc tie the cyl. up. I am not the original owner. I have never tried factory ammo as I have none on hand.
Firing pin question
- Thread starter deanodog
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500 Magnum Nut
Member
No. I suspect the firing pin spring is damaged or missing.
Another after idea is someone might have changed the firing pin for an extra long "aftermarket" one too.
Another after idea is someone might have changed the firing pin for an extra long "aftermarket" one too.
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Spotteddog
Member
Pull pin #97 in in 500's fine illustration.
Typically A very slight pressure from the rear on the pin towards the front may be needed, due to it being spring loaded rearward to allow the retaining pin to move. Though if yours is protruding as you describe, you may actually have to shift it slightly rearward?
Though it's difficult to see in the illustration, pin (#97) actually passes through a milling in the bottom of the firing pin (#38). It's designed that way to limit the pins travel fore and aft.
While I agree that it's quite likely a break in the spring and/or pin. Don't be surprised if an errant chunk of slag hasn't found it's way into the pins raceway, jamming it forward. That area is notorious for being so full of smygma that an appropriate sized drill bit often needs to be twirled through it by hand to clean it up before replacement pin installs?
Typically A very slight pressure from the rear on the pin towards the front may be needed, due to it being spring loaded rearward to allow the retaining pin to move. Though if yours is protruding as you describe, you may actually have to shift it slightly rearward?
Though it's difficult to see in the illustration, pin (#97) actually passes through a milling in the bottom of the firing pin (#38). It's designed that way to limit the pins travel fore and aft.
While I agree that it's quite likely a break in the spring and/or pin. Don't be surprised if an errant chunk of slag hasn't found it's way into the pins raceway, jamming it forward. That area is notorious for being so full of smygma that an appropriate sized drill bit often needs to be twirled through it by hand to clean it up before replacement pin installs?
Thanks guys. You two make a valuable contribution to the forum. I have been trying to soak the firing pin area with solvent to loosen anything that may be fouling the firing pin. With the hammer cocked I can push the firing pin foward and the spring returns it partially but leaves a slight bit of the pin sticking out that drags on the ammo as you try to cock it loaded. I have fired a ACP round without a moon clip and it fires o k.
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tomcatt51
Member
Remove the firing pin and measure how long it is. Overall length. It should not protrude. Randy Lee makes very good firing pins for the FMFP S&W's, available here: Smith and Wesson revolver parts : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
It seems like the firing pin was replaced with one that was too long. I shortened the present pin to flush with the bushing and test fired. It freed the rotation up and fires o k. I guess that is a bubba fix until I can get parts from S&W. Thanks for the help.
Let it soak in penetrating oil for longer duration
HEADKNOCKER
Member
After soaking with penatrant, I'd suggest PB Blaster, I would find a small drill bit that fits the bushings hole the best, useing the flat end to touch the pin & maybe an extention down the barrel to tap the FP loose.. I would tighten the revolver with the endshake screw & cylinder removed in a padded vice & make sure whatever you use down the barrel is coated or taped around to keep from damageing the rifling..
I would call S&W & they should send you a new firing pin & return spring FREE of Charge...
I have several firing pins of the newer style but have zero of the return springs in my stash of parts..
Good Luck, at least your working on one of the newer style that remove out the back instead of the type with the pin threw the frame were the bushing needs removed to get to the firing pin.. My 940 was like this & difficult to get out..
Gary/Hk
I would call S&W & they should send you a new firing pin & return spring FREE of Charge...
I have several firing pins of the newer style but have zero of the return springs in my stash of parts..
Good Luck, at least your working on one of the newer style that remove out the back instead of the type with the pin threw the frame were the bushing needs removed to get to the firing pin.. My 940 was like this & difficult to get out..
Gary/Hk
tomcatt51
Member
If you can't get the firing pin out, how did you shorten the firing pin?
Push it out like headknocker described. Emphasis on push. The C&S extended firing pins are good at wadding up the firing pin spring. At least they were, I haven't used a "new" one. Get one of the Apex Tactical firing pins. You really don't want one of the new, short, S&W pins.
HEADKNOCKER
Member
Does your 22-4 have the Fourth Sideplate screw at the top?
I know it's slightly above were the "firing pin" retaining pin is but it might be possible that the extra screw is screwed into this area?? I think it's way above but without it in my hands can't be certain..
Could also be that there's carbon build-up in the FP channel or the FP is slightly musheroomed or the FP spring is wrapped up around the front part of the FP..
Just trying to give you some ideas..
Let us know what the answer is..
Also I meant "Tap" on the firing pin when I posted before, I have an Elf Hammer that I would use for such fine work..
Good Luck!!
Gary/Hk
I know it's slightly above were the "firing pin" retaining pin is but it might be possible that the extra screw is screwed into this area?? I think it's way above but without it in my hands can't be certain..
Could also be that there's carbon build-up in the FP channel or the FP is slightly musheroomed or the FP spring is wrapped up around the front part of the FP..
Just trying to give you some ideas..
Let us know what the answer is..
Also I meant "Tap" on the firing pin when I posted before, I have an Elf Hammer that I would use for such fine work..
Good Luck!!
Gary/Hk
I finally got it out. I took a small finishing nail and cut it to length and clamped it in pliers and then tapped the pliers with a small hammer. I was quite hard to punch out but it finally came out. I measured it and it is .476. The spring looks ok but maybe the tip of the firing pin is bent slightly. It's hard to tell but I think this is what made it hard to travel back into the bushing.I will get a new pin and spring and that will fix me up I think. I want to thank all who helped. That is why I love this forum.
HEADKNOCKER
Member
Ahhh!! The "Elf Hammer" & a Nail..
I just measured the four factory S&W firing pins in my stash & they measure in OAL .495 -.498
Being you shortened the original pin, the one you need would have been a bit longer..
I'd try an clean that FP channel with Hoppes#9 & possibly a .177 bore brush & a Q-Tip..
Glad you got it apart..
Also I had to turn down some C&S Firing Pins before as they were too large in diameter, I chucked them in my Dremel & used 600 grit wet/dry to turn them down to the exact diameter of the factory pin..
Thought I'd tell you that in case the new factory pin is a few thousanths too large to fit in your frames firing pin channel..
Gary/Hk
I just measured the four factory S&W firing pins in my stash & they measure in OAL .495 -.498
Being you shortened the original pin, the one you need would have been a bit longer..
I'd try an clean that FP channel with Hoppes#9 & possibly a .177 bore brush & a Q-Tip..
Glad you got it apart..
Also I had to turn down some C&S Firing Pins before as they were too large in diameter, I chucked them in my Dremel & used 600 grit wet/dry to turn them down to the exact diameter of the factory pin..
Thought I'd tell you that in case the new factory pin is a few thousanths too large to fit in your frames firing pin channel..
Gary/Hk
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tomcatt51
Member
Cherish those. The new ones are .485.
HEADKNOCKER
Member
I Thought these might come in handy & thanks to S&W sending me the wrong ones several times they were FREE
These were made before they changed to the shorter pins after the California Drop Tests..
Gary
These were made before they changed to the shorter pins after the California Drop Tests..
Gary
They were not free for me since I was not the original owner. I will be lucky to get the right one also. The rep had trouble finding it in his paper work. I do not plan on lightening the trigger or changing any springs. I just traded for this gun like it was but no mention of the cylinder dragging. Oh well it could have been worse.
pberry
US Veteran
This may be related. I have a 610. I installed a C&S extra length firing pin. The gun started jamming during firing. I had trouble finding the cause. It finaly got bad enough that I couldn't open the cylinder. I could see the firing pin was stuck in the primer of the last round fired. I ended up putting a wood dial rod down the barrel into the empty case and striking the dial with a small hammer. The firing pin backed out and let me open the cylinder. I attemped to remove the firing pin from the frame but it would not come out. I had to use a small drill rod to bump it out from the bushing side. The problem was the firing pin hole in the frame had closed up around the firing pin. It appears the hammer striking the frame had closed the firing pin hole some. I used a very small file and opened the hole a little where the hammer strikes the frame. I suspect a burr left on the frame firing pin hole was the cause. I put everything back together and checked that the problem was gone. The firing pin is free now and no problems for over 2000 rounds.
Phil
Phil
tomcatt51
Member
Does your hammer face have a dent yet matching the firing pin face?
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