first 617 action job

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just finished up my first action job on a s&w revolver came out much better than expected pretty easy gun to work on imo. single action is smooth as glass at 3.2 pounds but it feels much lighter actually better feel than my freedom arms revolvers. took entire action apart and deburred and honed all the parts any thing that touches any thing else. i'll take it back apart when my trigger rebound and main spring kit come in and should be even better. i also ordered a 11 degree reamer for the forcing cone it's pretty bad they left all the sharp edges after getting cylinder gap at .005 . the mim parts were not too bad actually but will change out down the road with the power custom upgrade kit. no endshake at all but a little loose on lockup will order over sized cylinder lock and tighten that up i'm hoping this will be a good hunting rig i don't want to use the freedom arms for hunting squirrel for now just silhouette matches. anyone else do their own actions and how they come out ?
MS
 
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Congratulations on your successful first trigger job.

Be warned, the min parts are only hardened on the outside. The hard shell is not thick at all. If you hone them too much and get into the soft inside they will fail in short order.
Thanks for the tip I really didn't have to do much there except for the top of the hammer where it contacts the cylinder release bar was rough and had some ledges or rough spots. The power custom parts are hardened tool steel so I'm sure I'll probably get a bug and install them at some point.

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What ArchAngelCD said about MIM is truth. MIM parts are actually pretty good for being mass produced parts. They tend to be very uniform in terms of dimensions and surface smoothness, but the hardness is only on the surface. A well done trigger job always feels lighter than it really is. A really light, but poorly done trigger job can feel heavy.
 
Congratulations on your successful first trigger job.

Be warned, the min parts are only hardened on the outside. The hard shell is not thick at all. If you hone them too much and get into the soft inside they will fail in short order.

Interesting to know.
A couple years back I started a thread asking if a case hardened hammer and trigger from a model 34 could be installed in my model 63-3

No one seemed to know for sure.
 
Interesting to know.

A couple years back I started a thread asking if a case hardened hammer and trigger from a model 34 could be installed in my model 63-3



No one seemed to know for sure.
Call Ron power he will know I just talked to him today super nice guy !

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Congratulations on performing a trigger job on your 617. Mine is my favorite gun and over the years I've done a lot of upgrades to it.

I shoot it for Steel Challenge Matches against the autos. There is no division for rimfire revolver so I shoot rimfire pistol open or limited depending on my mood.

What are you using your 617 for? I'd recommend getting some DS-10 speed loaders for it from Revolver Supply Co.com. And get a loading block. It makes your outing much more fun and easier than putting one bullet at a time in the cylinder. I load up my blocks at home and at matches or practice I just use the DS-10s.
 
I recently bought a 617 4 inch. Love the gun! DA trigger pull was 12.5 and SA pull was 5.5. Ordered a shooter's pack from Wolff springs. Installed a 13 lb rebound spring and their ribbed mainspring. Knew immediately it wouldn't work with a DA pull of 5.5 lb. Put the factory mainspring back in. DA pull was at 9.5 and SA pull was at 3.5. I did nothing else and the gun goes off every time.
Then I called Wolff. Told them their ribbed mainspring wouldn't work without a much longer strain screw. I was directed to Dave in Tech Support. I said, "Dave"? He said, "Yes, this is Dave". I said, "Dave's not here". He said, "Excuse me"? I said, "Never mind". So he sent me 2 longer strain screws, and I tried both of them with their mainspring. Neither worked. I wound up backing the strain screw out 1/2 turn. This, with the 13 lb rebound spring gives me 8 lb DA and 3.2 lb SA. I'm happy and the gun goes off every time. As always, your results may vary.
 
Slight Turn Line 69:

Eight pound DA pull is just about perfect. You did very well. Instead of searching for the right strain screw I use an 8/32 hex head screw and use blue Loctite to keep it where I want it. Do not use Red. You would have to heat the frame up to get the screw out.

Good luck and good shooting.
 
Congratulations on performing a trigger job on your 617. Mine is my favorite gun and over the years I've done a lot of upgrades to it.



I shoot it for Steel Challenge Matches against the autos. There is no division for rimfire revolver so I shoot rimfire pistol open or limited depending on my mood.



What are you using your 617 for? I'd recommend getting some DS-10 speed loaders for it from Revolver Supply Co.com. And get a loading block. It makes your outing much more fun and easier than putting one bullet at a time in the cylinder. I load up my blocks at home and at matches or practice I just use the DS-10s.
Thanks !! Will be for small game hunting and target but mostly squirrel I shoot my freedom arms for serious target and silhouette shooting. I'm anxious to see what kind of accuracy off the bench I'll get with this gun. I hand lapped the barrel last night and bore scoped it just waiting for my spring kit and the 11 degree reamer for the forcing cone but want to do before and after testing.

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I recently bought a 617 4 inch. Love the gun! DA trigger pull was 12.5 and SA pull was 5.5. Ordered a shooter's pack from Wolff springs. Installed a 13 lb rebound spring and their ribbed mainspring. Knew immediately it wouldn't work with a DA pull of 5.5 lb. Put the factory mainspring back in. DA pull was at 9.5 and SA pull was at 3.5. I did nothing else and the gun goes off every time.
Then I called Wolff. Told them their ribbed mainspring wouldn't work without a much longer strain screw. I was directed to Dave in Tech Support. I said, "Dave"? He said, "Yes, this is Dave". I said, "Dave's not here". He said, "Excuse me"? I said, "Never mind". So he sent me 2 longer strain screws, and I tried both of them with their mainspring. Neither worked. I wound up backing the strain screw out 1/2 turn. This, with the 13 lb rebound spring gives me 8 lb DA and 3.2 lb SA. I'm happy and the gun goes off every time. As always, your results may vary.
Good heads up on the spring ! What Dave not there that's a old movie ! Lol

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This is from 25 yards off a bench using a bag. The C-More sight has a 12 MOA dot.
 
Congratulations on performing a trigger job on your 617. Mine is my favorite gun and over the years I've done a lot of upgrades to it.

I shoot it for Steel Challenge Matches against the autos. There is no division for rimfire revolver so I shoot rimfire pistol open or limited depending on my mood.

What are you using your 617 for? I'd recommend getting some DS-10 speed loaders for it from Revolver Supply Co.com. And get a loading block. It makes your outing much more fun and easier than putting one bullet at a time in the cylinder. I load up my blocks at home and at matches or practice I just use the DS-10s.
i have a 6 shot i'm assuming ds-10's are 10 shot what 6 shot are good if they make them ?
 
I tuned mine as well, I installed the crane detent ball, various springs a little polishing some shims a longer firing pin. did the chamber ream which was probably the best thing I did as it made for much longer shooting sessions and the 11 degree cone and polish and the muzzle lap.
I also installed a trigger stop pin in the rebound spring and that made my shooting much better especially single action. takes many assemblys and disassemblys to fit the trigger stop pin perfectly.
 
I tuned mine as well, I installed the crane detent ball, various springs a little polishing some shims a longer firing pin. did the chamber ream which was probably the best thing I did as it made for much longer shooting sessions and the 11 degree cone and polish and the muzzle lap.
I also installed a trigger stop pin in the rebound spring and that made my shooting much better especially single action. takes many assemblys and disassemblys to fit the trigger stop pin perfectly.
What firing pin did you get ? Also I thought I had a trigger stop built into the frame on the back of the trigger guard I'm assuming that's what it is when I took it all apart then back together I had to adjust it for the trigger to set the hammer off.

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Unless there is a specific reason (such as push off) removing metal from the Trigger and Hammer engagement surfaces could mostly shorten the life of proper engagement. Most novices just go too far and while their initial results appear good - many times premature failure is the result. Revolver engagement surfaces are only surface hardened a few thousandths deep and once that is cut through, wear is greatly accelerated.

Spring changes & adjustments, burr removal, a thorough cleaning and light lubrication is usually enough to get better results. Stoning is a last resort IMHO and best left to the experienced for important issues.
 
Normally I would agree with that statement not sure if it's aimed at me or in general but for me i do have quite a bit of experience with Sears this just happened to be my first trigger job on a s&w 617 with the right tools it was easy although I don't have a stoning fixture yet I didn't need one to do some light truing on the surfaces the most work was the trigger return slide stoning out the surfaces to get them true and slick. I did order a power custom #1 fixture for when my other parts come in and plan on doing my colt python and some other revolvers that I have and for future purchases. I am waiting to get my power custom rebuild kit for this revolver and will use the fixture on those in the meantime I ordered a oversized cylinder lock and plan on tightening up the slop in the cylinder and doing the 11degree forcing cone ream but still waiting on the tooling for that I will get some before and after testing to see if the effort was worth it ?

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