First post, lots of 686 questions

[monroe]

Great forum. I've lurking for a while now, and have some questions. After being a 1911 shooter almost exclusively, I've recently caught the wheel gun bug. I'm considering getting a 686-4. My understanding is that dash 4 is the last dash number before the implementation of MIM parts. I'm not keen on the internal lock either. If I did buy new and end up with a dash 6, I know the lock can be removed, but which parts are MIM and can they be upgraded to non-MIM? Is the PC model worth the extra cost? 6 rounds vs 7: Is there a reason to choose one over the other (other than the obvious)? Your opinions needed.

 

[Ashlander]

If you have your heart set on a 686 -- that's great. When I caught the revolver bug though I just looked for cop trade-ins or nice used guns in a broad category -- mine was K-frame magnums -- but I would have been happy if I found any decent used 686 (and a lot of guys make far too much over MIM parts and locks). I got a pair of 65-3s (one 3" and one 4"), a 66-7 (with the dreaded lock, a 2-piece barrel and MIM parts -- it's a great shooter) and a 640-3 (for summer carry). I had a 19-3 for a while too -- but I found I liked stainless better, so it was part of a trade.

At any rate, all my wheel guns were fairly inexpensive. If down the road I see a used 686 for a fair price -- in any variety -- I might buy that too. I wouldn't agonize over which series. That might just be me though.

 

[mtelkhntr]

I too think the 686 is a very fine sidearm and the first one I bought was the first one that caught my eye (a 4" no dash). In my opinion, it was at a great price for the condition so I bought it. Now if I hadn't found that one and those were my exact criteria, I still wouldn't own one as I've not found another. You've got the model down and a good one at that. If I were you, I'd put more thought into whether you wanted 4", 6" or whatever length barrel and buy the first one you find that fits those two criteria as long as it's in good shape and at a price you're comfortable with.

If you can do that in a -4, all the better but you can always trade up, down or around later and have something to play with in the meantime.

Good luck!

 

[gr7070]

I was a bit of a 1911-guy, and now that I've realized revolvers aren't hideous and boring I don't even bother with my 1911 anymore.

If you want to worry about MIM or locks you're welcome to. I wouldn't.

If you have any inkling (which you should!) that you might want to play gun games like IDPA or USPSA, etc. get a 4" 6-shot. 7-shot guns aren't a realistic option and >4" isn't always legal.

There are no new PC 686s, they're Pro Series. The best thing about the Pro is the interchangeable front sight. Very handy and may save you enough money alone to justify the price difference. I do prefer the full length lug look more, though.

 

[18DAI]

Welcome to the forum!

Go with your first choice, the 686-4. Everything you need in a revolver and nothing you don't. On the off chance you decide you don't care for it, you will always get your money out of it too. Regards 18DAI

 

[lhump1961]

+1 to all of the replies. Good advise all around. I, as well as most, also have autos (1911 included) and enjoy them. But I mostly shoot and carry my revolvers just cause I enjoy the whole revolver experience more than autos. The 686 is a great choice no matter what dash number or barrel length. Can't think of anything not to like. MIM parts, locks, hammer mounted firing pins, ect. are all a matter of personal preference. All of my revolvers are older but that may be because I am older! I like my 686 as much as my 66's...need more than one (or more) to satisfy my revolver appetite.

Find a configuration that suits your tastes and enjoy!

 

[Chuck Jones]

There's nothing at all about the -4 that makes it superior to earlier L frames. You could argue about the tighter tolerances that the CNC machining of -4 and later guns allowed, but in L frames it really doesn't matter.

I have a bias for forged parts, but one non-mim L frame is as good (or bad) as another.

If it's me, I look for a well fitted smooth action, in the best condition for the best price, and don't worry much about the dash.

/c

my once rare ($$$!) T-grip collection shown with some L frames I had lying around.

 

[sheldon wade]

nothing wrong with a 686

nothing wrong with any dash 686 or any barrel length. i have 2 4 inch and 1 6 inch no dashes and i want an 8 3/8 inch one too.
sw

 

[Titegroups]

You can always replace the MIM hammer and trigger when they break.

 

[dubhelix]

I traded my Stainless SW1911 for this 686-3.

It was a sweet shooter, but so is this hefty wheelgun. If you lurk on the "Classified" section of this forum long enough, you'll find a pre-MIM 686 for sale sooner or later. Either that, or something else will be listed for sale, and you'll jump on it.
Like this: http://smith-wessonforum.com/guns-sale-trade/211091-model-66-5-2-5-se-pa.html

or this:http://smith-wessonforum.com/guns-sale-trade/210458-fs-681-a.html

 

[scooter123]

You can always replace the MIM hammer and trigger when they break.

One warning about this statement. From what I've seen it will be your grandchildren who have a problem with the MIM parts. In the 3 years I've been on this forum there have been just 2 postings about an MIM hammer spur breaking. On one the gun was dropped on concrete on the hammer spur and it snapped off. On the other the poster stated that he felt that it was due to a massive amount of dry fire cycles WITHOUT using snap caps and he was posting to warn others to use snap caps for dry fire practice.

To be specific, S&W took the time and spent the research dollars to assure that the MIM parts would last at least as long as the older forged parts. This means that they went to this process after it was fully "matured" and "ready for prime time.

I'll also note that forged parts actually cost
LESS to make than MIM, I recently looked into having some small parts made by MIM process and it's NOT an inexpensive process. Any cost savings that S&W has seen by using MIM are simply because these parts "fit" so well, so no hand fitting is needed. One real positive is that means Quality is also improved, people hand fitting parts together in a production environment have an alarmingly high rate of rejects. The second positive for the MIM parts is that "tuning" the lockwork is dead easy, all you have to do is swap out 2 springs and do a very slight bit of stoning.

Now for an Alternative Suggestion. I'm a long time wheelgunner who recently purchased a model 625 JM in 45 ACP. I'm now seeing why this caliber has such a strong following, it is one sweet shooting caliber. Sweet enough that I may even look into purchasing a, gasp, 1911, maybe even a Ruger.

However, one warning about the trigger in the 625 JM. The serrations on the trigger are sharp as razors, so anyone purchasing this model will have to plan on pulling the trigger and knocking them down with a Dremel. I saw one post that this particular trigger is a DNA sampling device and completely agree with that description.

PS; the 625 JM comes with Forged hammer and trigger. At some point I'll probably swap that out for MIM because I really prefer the .400 inch smooth Target trigger. Already have a trigger, now all I need to do is locate a hammer.

 

[Titegroups]

I'm on your side of the argument scooter, facts get trumped by internet induced paranoia all the time.

 

[powderburns]

One warning about this statement. From what I've seen it will be your grandchildren who have a problem with the MIM parts. In the 3 years I've been on this forum there have been just 2 postings about an MIM hammer spur breaking. On one the gun was dropped on concrete on the hammer spur and it snapped off. On the other the poster stated that he felt that it was due to a massive amount of dry fire cycles WITHOUT using snap caps and he was posting to warn others to use snap caps for dry fire practice.

To be specific, S&W took the time and spent the research dollars to assure that the MIM parts would last at least as long as the older forged parts. This means that they went to this process after it was fully "matured" and "ready for prime time.

I'll also note that forged parts actually cost
LESS to make than MIM, I recently looked into having some small parts made by MIM process and it's NOT an inexpensive process. Any cost savings that S&W has seen by using MIM are simply because these parts "fit" so well, so no hand fitting is needed. One real positive is that means Quality is also improved, people hand fitting parts together in a production environment have an alarmingly high rate of rejects. The second positive for the MIM parts is that "tuning" the lockwork is dead easy, all you have to do is swap out 2 springs and do a very slight bit of stoning.

Now for an Alternative Suggestion. I'm a long time wheelgunner who recently purchased a model 625 JM in 45 ACP. I'm now seeing why this caliber has such a strong following, it is one sweet shooting caliber. Sweet enough that I may even look into purchasing a, gasp, 1911, maybe even a Ruger.

However, one warning about the trigger in the 625 JM. The serrations on the trigger are sharp as razors, so anyone purchasing this model will have to plan on pulling the trigger and knocking them down with a Dremel. I saw one post that this particular trigger is a DNA sampling device and completely agree with that description.

PS; the 625 JM comes with Forged hammer and trigger. At some point I'll probably swap that out for MIM because I really prefer the .400 inch smooth Target trigger. Already have a trigger, now all I need to do is locate a hammer.

Good, intelligent post. I agree about MIM paranoia however I just don't like the way MIM LOOKS. Case hardened looks much more natural.

 

[SWP357]

Good, intelligent post. I agree about MIM paranoia

A refreshing breath of good reason!

 

[scooter123]

A bit of further information in regards to MIM parts. S&W is currently offering MIM parts in the "blue" or either flash chromed or stainless, so you can't really trust the "look" to determine the material. Fact is the "blued" MIM trigger I purchased from Numrich's for my 625 looks an awful lot like the recent case colored forged triggers which don't seem to have the same degree of flame coloring as on the older vintage revolvers.

 

[Decker]

In the 3 years I've been on this forum there have been just 2 postings about an MIM hammer spur breaking. On one the gun was dropped on concrete on the hammer spur and it snapped off.

I am also one who has no problem with MIM parts at all because manufacturers of high quality guns "know their stuff" and make it properly, and use it properly.
In many cases, I like the feel and fit of the MIM parts better.
When Smith starts using MIM barrels and cylinders, then I'll be concerned.

But to why I jumped in right here:

My wife's carry pistol was/is a Model 60 that I bought way back around 1980, way before MIM.
Around '82, it slipped out of her purse while she was looking for something and it dropped onto a concrete floor, cleanly braking off the hammer spur about halfway.
The drop was "perfect", and nothing else at all was nicked or marred other than that stainless hammer breaking off.

I carefully rounded the sharp nub with a Dremel tool and made it look like it was intentionally bobbed, and ever since then, my wife has preferred her "newly bobbed" Model 60 for purse carry.

The point is, MIM can break, stainless can break, forged can break. It all has to do with "suitability for purpose", and I've seen no abuse of that principle by any of the big name gun manufacturers, and as a result, we are getting better guns at reasonable prices from them.

Nothing wrong with MIM at all. In fact, it's used a lot in the aircraft industry, so if you have a problem with MIM, you better not get on any airplanes ever again.

 

[Chuck Jones]

Just to clear up my bias for forged parts.

Just like I wrote, it's a bias, a prejudice, I don't think there is any rational reason to avoid MIM.

I believe S&W manufactures, designs, and works with MIM technology perfectly well. I wouldn't hesitate staking my life, or the hunt of a lifetime, on a modern S&W with MIM parts.

That said, I prefer older guns with forged parts and no lock.

By the way I don't think I'd stake my life on a lock gun, but the good news is the lock can be removed.

/c

 

[powderburns]

A bit of further information in regards to MIM parts. S&W is currently offering MIM parts in the "blue" or either flash chromed or stainless, so you can't really trust the "look" to determine the material. Fact is the "blued" MIM trigger I purchased from Numrich's for my 625 looks an awful lot like the recent case colored forged triggers which don't seem to have the same degree of flame coloring as on the older vintage revolvers.

Well now that just further muddies the water dosen't it?

 

[sourdough44]

I had my 686-3 out yesterday to compare a few things to my new(to me) 586. I don't know if I have another revolver that locks up as tight as my 6" 686. The cylinder has zero play, not even a tiny bit. Maybe the fact that it's just about NIB is a factor. I've always used my Security-Six as the designated house gun.

 

[H Richard]

The only thing "better" about non-MIM parts is they "look" prettier.