first post - need advise on a model 17

bill11

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hi - i think a came to the right place to get advise and gain some knowlege on a revolver that a gun store just got in. It is a model 17 made in the 70's. probobly 1975. the serial # is 81k27xx does anyone know if 1975 is correct? the barrel is a 6" pinned. Should i look for an earlier made gun? i want it to shoot not sit in a safe. Someone told me that 17's made before 1975 are better. Any truth to that? all input is appreciated. thanks, bill11
 
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That serial looks like the gun was built during 1980.
The serials 57K through 91K were 1980.

Is the 17 dash designation inside the yoke?
Should be a 17-4.

Nothing wrong with a 1980's model 17, and it should still be pinned and recessed, if I'm not mistaken.

I have 1968 model 17-2, plus I own a model 617 no dash in 4"....so You'll hear nothing detrimental about S&W 22 revolvers from me. ;>)
 
ok great - it has to be 1980 then. i read the tight chambers result in casings sticking. I'm ok with that as long as it isn't cronic. Is that an over blown issue from impatient people? Any other issues with 17's? again thank you bill11
 
A lot of performance gripes are tied to ammunition. If one brand seems to hang up on ejection, try another maker's rounds. (But you still need to do your part in keeping the chambers clean.)

A real problem for some people who buy a 17 or Pre-17 is the exaggerated state of elation they find themselves in when they take it to the range. But self-medication with Guinness after you get home will usually restore you to a conventional level of misery and ennui.

Seriously, buy the gun. Almost everybody here will tell you that you will love it. If by some fluke it turns out we are wrong and you don't, you won't have much trouble selling it.

About manufacturing eras: Even the most excellent production company can put out a bad gun from time to time, and a company that is in a push to increase production can turn out an absolutely perfect specimen. Buy the gun, not the generalization. If there is something wrong with this one, you are very likely to see it and feel it before plunking down the cash. Among K-22 shooters, there is a kind of preference for early guns (say early 17s from the 1960s, or Pre-17s from the '40s and '50s, or even the ribless barrel guns from before WWII), but that doesn't mean those guns are necessarily "better" by some objective standard. It just means they are preferred, which is a measure of buyer psychology more than firearm performance.
 
thanks dave for the insight. There is a good chance i will buy it. i have never had a 22 revolver before. bill11
 
Welcome to the forum! If the mechanics such as timeing,lock up,end shake and push off are ok I would like to reccomend that you put it in your safe! As for the "sticky or tight chambers" I take a cleaning rod with brush along to the range with me, when inserting a new round or extraction gets stiff a few pass's through each charge hole will fix that. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
That is one hot item these days. If you have any desire to own one, grab it.
 
Buy it ! You will love shooting it. If the casings hang up, wait a second or two and they will eject. My 17-4 only did that after I shot a lot of rounds through it without resting for a minute.

After a few regular trips to the range, that doesn't happen anymore.
 
to complicate things i also have a few other 22's to consider. my choices are the model 17 i was talking about - a model 18 from the early 60's - a 617 no dash 6 shot with 4" barrrel or a 617- 4 pre-lock 4" barrel with 10 shots. all are great condition and within a few hundred of each other. what would you do? thanks bill11
 
I second the motion on the 18, but then I already have 3 model 17's.:rolleyes:
 
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I think I would go for the 18 first as well. Despite the shorter barrel, I have found my Pre-18 to be more accurate than my 6-inch .22s. I can't promise you will have the same experience, but the four inch barrel is a little bit more of a general purpose length than the six. You can add a six-inch gun for detail work later if the need for a different .22 still exists.
 
I have an #17, the wax on the cartridges can build up in the cylinders and cause sticky extraction. You can either wipe the wax out or shoot cartridges which don't have wax on the exterior.
 
I had a #18 and hated it, although I love my #17. I'm a hunter/shooter. The #18 was expensive to feed and chronographed velocities were less than .22 LR that were shot from a rifle, only about 200 fps greater than .22LR. out of my #17. Muzzle blast was much more. I thought that the #18 was all bark and very little bite. For sure there wasn't enough of a performance advantage to outweigh the additional cost of the ammo. If I wanted increased performance over the #17 then reloads out of my #14 were much more powerful and a lot cheaper.
 
I had a #18 and hated it, although I love my #17. I'm a hunter/shooter. The #18 was expensive to feed and chronographed velocities were less than .22 LR that were shot from a rifle, only about 200 fps greater than .22LR. out of my #17. Muzzle blast was much more. I thought that the #18 was all bark and very little bite. For sure there wasn't enough of a performance advantage to outweigh the additional cost of the ammo. If I wanted increased performance over the #17 then reloads out of my #14 were much more powerful and a lot cheaper.

:confused::confused::confused:Huh? The Model 18 is a 22 LR K-frame with a 4" barrel. Why would it be more "expensive to feed" than a Model 17 or 617? I was going to suggest to the OP that any of the first 3 choices he mentioned would be a good one, with the 6" vs 4" barrel purely a matter of personal choice. I also like the stainless of the 617, but am not sold on how well the lockwork of a K-frame 10 shooter works out, so would go for the 6 shot version. JMHO, YMMV.

Froggie
 
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